HOrnbrod

Nice job. It's amazing more bolts/fittings didn't break than the few that did. The sheet metal on the truck actually looks quite good.

This guy never ceases to amaze me with his dumb-down vids....

The only components that will swap from the Renix to the HO cluster are the oil pressure and temperature gauges, and the voltmeter. Nothing else will even mount, different mounting bosses. The cruise control systems are completely different and incompatible.

Why not you? I did mine by scratch, piece by piece and homemade wiring harness. If I could have found a deal like this i would have been all over it.

Nonsense Charlie. You're still a youngster, plenty of time for another MJ. You'll be busy as hell for awhile, maybe quite awhile, but when you have everything straight, it'll be MJ time again. No hurry. Check in from time to time, we'll be waiting for you mate.

Understand - do what you gotta do.

Imagine. It can and usually is if you take your time and are not in a hurry. Plus you can ship it for $500 sometimes using Uship and are willing to wait using the Space A option. Or tow it back yourself. Buying a local rust-free vehicle is nearly impossibly up there and you've got at least $1K of rust repair with a ton of labor and you'll never get it or stop it all. And no way would I buy someone else' s 4.5" lifted rig with a Krusty's or worse lift either. I'm originally from New England and when I left I swore I'd never buy a northern used vehicle again.

Now if we could only get everyone to do this....

How long is it this time of year from dawn to dusk? Maybe 4-5 hours?

How about creating a signature so we know what you are driving....

Exactly. To answer your question: "is that a good price for it?", hell no. You can get a clean similarly equipped southern rust-free MJ shipped to WI for equal or less $$. Take your time and do some searching.

Nice work guys, and it looks like y'all had a lot of fun building this rig.

Contact forum members here like krustyballer16 or saveevryjp1998 via PM. They usually have some...

Only comes off by removing the push-on speed nut from the backside.

Nice looking engine compartment. I see you have the RHD electric fan. I just added one to mine so now I have two. Got rid of the old power sucking mechanical fan years ago.

Renix and HOs had different grommets and valve cover gaskets. And yes, sounds like you're missing some parts. You have a 2.5, so I don't know. These 2.5 diagrams from the 91 parts manual should help you find out what's wrong and/or missing.

Tons of threads around covering the Jeep CCV system. HERE'S one. Do a search.... https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-1987-1995-Repair-Guide/CRANKCASE-EMISSION-CONTROLS/Crankcase-Ventilation-CCV-System/_/P-0900c1528008abb2

Pull them both out of the valve cover grommets and make sure they aren't clogged, especially the CCV ( Crankcase Vent) with the small orifice in it. Also check the hose to the air cleaner.

Sure is. The marketeers are cashing in on his name. Bastids...

^^^ I'll bet Carroll is rolling in his grave..

Don't matter - check the codes using the key sequence. 99% of the embedded codes do not throw the CE light.

G, have you checked for codes recently?

That's what I had in mine.

Well worth the effort Chico. And saving some bucks is an added benefit too. Go for it mate..

Yes, mine ran hot until ~1K miles or so, but that was only on a long uphill grade or stuck in traffic on a 90* plus day. During that break-in time my temp gauge approached the red zone as close yours is maybe five times max. For normal open road driving it ran just slightly over straight-up. To me, anything over mid-scale I worry about. Gotta ask the obligatory, are you running the 195* Mopar stat? The biggest single mod that helped me run consistently cool was GoJeeps restrictor mod HERE. But give it some time....