HOrnbrod

Very nice job mate! Is the final paint the same as the original?

:nuts: No freekin' way. The baddies outweigh the benes. The "pleasure" of living there is not worth the aggravation and $$ mate. The people, taxes, real estate, politics, QOL, etc. all sucks. I don't fault you at all for being disgusted and fed up at times Wade-man. My post is no freeking help on passing your smog test - sorry, but it's just one more of life's little expensive aggravations you have to live with to be in Paradise. :cheers:

Damn, this is hard hard to respond to. Two tours in the AO as active duty artillary, then get bit by a spider as a contractor back in country and end up as an amputee. But that doesn't make it any easier for you mate. You had been there, done it, and the decision to go back was based on your experience. Bless your positive attitude about this. I do hope you are receiving first class medical attention. Sounds like you are. :cheers:

Thank Gawd I don't have to deal w. antique Renault electronics. Nothing they (the French) ever built was even remotely long-term reliable in a corrosive climate. The only possible even crappier maximus electronics manufacturer was Lucas. AMC allied w. Renault in a futile effort to save the marque, that of course failed prematurely maybe because of that alliance. And I'm willing to bet a large sum you don't have these constant problems w. your TJ SW2. Sorry SW2, rant over - this isn't helping you w. the Cali smog test. :cheers:

Yeah, that's true. You'd think the price would go down, since this kit is offered by several other vendors and they appear to be readibly available. Also the demand has got to be decreasing since a lot of carbed 4.2's are history now, unless the individual kit parts are made of unobtainium. I'll never understand economics and how supply and demand works. :nuts:

How did I know you were going to ask that? :D There's a butterfly adj. stop screw on the HOs, I think the same or similar for the Renix throttle body. The Renix gurus will soon chime in here I'm certain. :cheers:

500 RPM is too low; make it 700-900 RPM if possible (@ fully warmed up) - mo betta. At 500 you might find yourself stalling out at stop signs.

Hesco developed these kits for Mopar and still sell them (one for auto tranny; one for standard). Not cheap though.......... http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=43025&catId=7577

They are hard to get out w/o prying straight up. This link will help: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

Yes, I agree with that - no need for super studs. I had to replace my stock axle studs with longer studs when I installed rear Ford Explorer disk brakes to make up for the thickness of the disk backing plates. I just pulled one, brought it down to a local machine shop / auto parts store (not a chain store) and they had aftermarket Dorman studs w. the correct knurl and stud length 3/8" longer than what I had. These worked just fine.

Yeah, you would think so Wahoo. They have been around a long time. http://atkvege.com/content/index.php/spanish/Baja-1000-win.php

Yes, that is a damn good price for the ATK stroker. But I know nothing about these engines, and there isn't a whole lot of info on them in the Strokers forum either. The Golen and Titan strokers (about the same price) however have a lot of info there, mostly bad. Not because I have one, but you seldom see any bad feedback on the Hesco motors, except how expensive they are. Guess it's like anything else - you get what you pay for. :D

Specs and price on the Mopar/ATK stroker HERE (From ATK) From Chrysler it's $4690.00 and the part number is P5155210. A $1,896 markup over ATK's price for dealer support I guess. :eek:

So i install a engine with more displacment than stock, i think somthing has to change. At least bigger injectors. It would probably work better with a bigger than stock throttle body. Maybe a better exhaust? Stock computer will work, but maybe a modified one will work better. Sounds like you are on the ATK payroll Who said that! I don't post a lot of stroker info here, and I'm not on the ATK payroll (be nice to be though :D ). Of course many improvements over stock have to change. I run a Hesco 4.6L crate motor (NOT ATK) w. a few mods, including injectors, throttle body, headers, intake, exhaust system, intake, and a Unichip to mod the stock OBDI ECU. This is all on detailed on the strokers forum w. progressive dyno results. I've followed your WFC build there w. your the projected dyno results. Unless I missed it, haven't seen any proof mate.

Nope, it's not half a poduct, the new Mopar crate engine is a replacement alternative for an HO engine, 91 and above. It's not designed to replace a Renix system engine and all the Renix electronics. Of course you can buy adapters from Hesco or another vendor (pricey is right) to retain certain Renix sensors, and maybe the throttle body and computer. But why? It makes better economic and practical sense to wire in an HO harness from the yard including throttle body, HO sensors, and the HO ECU.

No, the Renix is no problem with the intake, the Renix problem is the exhaust. The stroker needs both suck and blow to perform and w/o blow it won't put out decent numbers. So it's either an HO head install on the Renix w. the throttle body problem if you want to retain the Renix sensors (WHY??) or extensive porting requirements on the Renix head. Kind of like polishing a turd. :eek:

Here's a better DIY alignment for Jeeps link w. pics: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm Been doing it this way for years and works well. :D

This engine claims 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque (peak readings - it doesn't specify RPMs). My latest readings on the Hesco dyno were 219.5 HP @ 3916 RPM, torque at 294.9 w. peak torque 280 @ 3600 RPM (1999 intake manifold only). W. the Unichip and manifold the readings were 261.1 HP @ 4400 RPM, w. peak torque 345 @ 3500 RPM. So it compares favorably. :D

http://media.chrysler.com/newsrelease.do;jsessionid=A50907E9AD2F278511533B59A2B4AA70?mid=1&id=9219

I'd love to help ya on this one, but I've only dealt with the HO cruise control, which is plug-and-play and an entirely different animal. The vacuum line is already there in the engine compartment capped off, as well as the wiring harness plug for the servo. All you have to do mount the servo, plug it in, run the new cruise cable to the throttle body, then add the cruise stalk and plug in the cruise wire under the dash.

Got a link to that writeup mate?

:agree:

Not necessarily. Are the 15x8 chromed steel wheels you refer to regulation Jeep wheels? If so, I agree, If not, better find out what the wheel back space is. EDIT: Pete beat me. :D

The 2.5 engines to 1990 (carbureted) have a PCV valve in the front valve cover grommet. The rear grommet fitting is just a plastic hose elbow.

The WJ arms have the same clevis bracket as the stock LCAs and use the same shims. I had to add shims to correct caster when I did my lift, but since you are staying the same you should be the okay reusing the shims as you removed them. The WJ LCAs are the same length as the old LCAs.