HOrnbrod

All true. I miss the olde "road tube". It did a good job. :( BUT, before you get all worried, try cleaning up or upgrading your existing CCV system. Could be as simple as a clogged orifice under the valve cover. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAvalveCover/ValveCover.htm

How true. :shake:

That's your vent tube and brings up a good point. If the tube gets clogged no venting, more pressure, and oily fumes will look for an escape anywhere they can find it. Pull the vent tube off the axle and make sure you can blow thru it, also make sure the axle hose fitting is clear.

They went in just fine using the olde bottle jack w. a 2" socket to put pressure on the spring plate. Didn't even have to pull the wheels. Thanks all. :cheers:

For my 01 intake and 97 P/S pump/bracketry I'm set up w. A/C and routed the 99+ belt like below. But it looks like your belt is riding about 1/4" further back toward the engine than mine is. :dunno:

:agree: Since the leak blowby is fairly equal on both axle tubes from the pumpkin outward, don't see how it could be anything else. Probably a small groove worn into the pinion yoke over time, allowing fluid to seep past the shaft seal. Just fixed the same problem by replacing the yoke with the stronger u-bolt yoke, and a new seal.

:thumbsup:

Cash 4 Clunkers.

SKF (Swedish) and INA (Germany) bearings are IMHO the best bearings made. I always use these if they make one for my application, and it usually can be found in their cross reference tables. KOYO & NTN (Japanese) are a close quality second. All foreign manufacturers, and all have offices and manufacturing facilities in the US. Timkin and National are arguable the best of the rest. I haven't knowingly used Chinese manufactured bearings, but with all the outsourcing I'm sure I have. I have no problem using Chinese manufactured bearings (or anything else) but only after doing my quality research. :cheers:

Now that makes sense Jim. :cheers: I'll use the olde bottle jack w. a big 2" socket between it and the spring plate so the leaf spring center bolt can pass through it. Just enough pressure to hold the plate from slipping.

I don't think jacking the axle up will help, unless I jack it up under the lower spring plate (SUA) to keep it from sliding when one u-bolt is removed. I really don't understand how it moved because the other u-bolt was tight. I've done it before. :dunno: I think the bottle jack under the spring plate as Mudtruck87 mentioned along with c-clamps if I can squeeze them in should work. I always use Hi-nuts on u-bolts mate. :thumbsup:

Simple, right? NOT! Background: I bought a fine new set of 7/16" u-bolts from Tom of Hellcreek because I had re-used my old 1/2" u-bolts when the D44 went in. Wasn't comfortable with that even though they were fairly new. Crawled under, removed one old u-bolt from the outboard left side, slid the new one in, torqued it down, and proceeded to the inboard bolt. Loosened it up, and Wham; the leaf spring plate slid outboard about 3/8" and could not get the new one in as the plate holes were out of line. Jacked it up, removed the wheel, and managed to "re-position" it correctly w. a BFH and clever jack manipulation. Torqued it down and all's well. But a major PITA. I don't want this to happen on the other side. If I jack it up under the spring plate to take the weight off I won't be able to remove the old u-bolts 'cause the jack will be in the way. C-clamps? Any tricks?

The ZJ D44A were built for one reason - weight savings, about 250 pounds I figured, and I liked that. My problem was busting axles in my D35 c-clip w. the stroker, so I knew I had to upgrade. Since I didn't read anything terribly bad about the D44A axles except housing warping problems, and I don't offroad, it was a close second choice in either 3.73 or 4.10 ratios. Choice #1 was always an MJ D44. I looked and looked, and over time (over a year) I finally found a close-by MJ D44 first and snapped it up. IF a good D44a axle had turned up first, I would have snapped it up. For my purposes, it would probably have been fine.

:clapping:

Looks to me like it's for the WJ Grand.

Wheel well size difference between the XJs and MJs.

XJ 2DR and 4DR rear fender flares are the same p/n and neither will fit the MJ rear fender (w/o modification).

Parking brake foot lever assembly Cat back exhaust system Air diffuser at the front of the full console Full console center piece (no e-brake slot) Retractor seat belts

I've always found adding parts from performance cars added a few ponies. For instance I installed some Porsche interior lights and side markers and immediately noticed more response off the line. But this works conversely as well. I made the mistake of replacing my stock speakers with some nice VW beetle speakers, and it wiped out all the performance gains from the Porsche parts.

Must be nice having all that underhood real estate in the YJ. Plenty of room for a turbo. :D

Dayem, we're pretty close on our rear end setups. :D My stuff in RED CAPS after yours: '01 XJ Chrysler 8.25 with 3.55 gears Powertrax No-Slip 89 MJ DANA44 WITH 4.09 GEARS W. TRAK-LOC RS 9000 shocks OME SHOCKS HellCreek MT2200 springs OEM 3+2 MT SPRINGS JKS greaseable shackles TERAFLEX GREASEABLE SHACKLES Spidertrax spacers LIKEWISE Tom Woods drive shaft LIKEWISE '97 ZJ disc brakes 97 FORD EXPLORER DISK BRAKES

Where is that photo Senor Eagle?

Maybe, maybe not. I don't know either. I do know that the older Toyota pickups used to have a similar mechanical load sensing valve and it was piped like the MJs. There was no special bleed procedure for it, according to a Toy dealer mechanic I know. I was discussing with him the possibility of swapping one of the Toy valves out if and when mine failed. He said at the dealership they do a gravity bleed for the valve, nothing else. :dunno:

Ebay Sender 91-92 MJ Sender Pretty hard to tell anything unless they are side by side. They do look pretty close though. And yes, I know the MJ Renix and HO senders swap work per se. Work correctly? No. And yes, you can change the output polarity of either sender by disconnecting the output wire from the leg of the potentiometer and resoldering to the other leg. The gauge still be inaccurate though because the potentiometers are of different values, but at least the gauge will deflect in the proper direction.

Good, I'll take it off your hands when you do. :D I'm aware of the extra bleeding step in the FSM for the load leveling valve, but have never had to do it. I do a good gravity bleed before I start at the wheels, and it always works; firm pedal and great brakes. Not saying don't do it, just that I haven't found it necessary.