HOrnbrod

Found the forum, looks like some good info on there. Thanks for the referral. They were barely touching, but they did touch. Here is a picture of the valve cover. The rockers only showed wear on a couple of them. Guess the anodizing was strong enough and the contact light enough. There is still a tick so I'm guessing its just gonna be permanent. Good excuse to get a nice looking cover though. Here is a picture, you can see wear marks on inside of cover, and one of the rockers is bare in a small spot. I modded the shield in the current cover for now (broke loose one side of sheild and re tacked it higher up), and think I found an alum. one that will have enough clearance. I'll know for sure tomorrow when I make a phone call. Cheers So tell me all about the Harland Sharp #S40196 rockers. I've know a few guys who have installed the Yella Terra's in their strokers and are happy with them. Outside of the tapping on the cover, how do you like them? And yes, I think the earlier cast aluminum covers are a bit taller inside the the stamped steel one you show. :cheers:

Yeah, they are supposed to work w. the stock cover - no experience with them but I've been looking at roller rockers for my stroker too. Yella Terra's in particular. Strokers forum: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php Search around there or ask your question. Doubtful you'll find good info on the topic here.

Are these the bolt-on pedestal mount rockers, or the stud mount ones? Lots of info on these over on the stroker forum.

The original MJ combination valve under the master is not a proportioning valve, it's simply a fluid junction block. The proportioning (brake biasing to the rear wheels) is done by the load leveling valve on the rear axle. You did your install as I did. Nice job on the brake lines too. :cheers:

You should use the 96 proportioning valve only if you plan on eliminating rear the load leveling valve on your MJ, otherwise you'll have two prop valves. I kept my MJ load leveling valve and reused the MJ combo valve flare nuts up front and fabbed new lines from the combo valve to the master cylinder.

MJ MT springs will fit all Comanches.

Set of MT springs would fix that right up Johnny. Mine did that when I hauled a big load of 2x4's or rocks, not now. I like that rig. :cheers:

Brent is working full time days at the Jeep dealership in FL and going to school nights/weekends - hard workin' man. Last time I heard from him was after the last Super Bowl. Just had to rag him about the Steelers getting their butts whomped. :cheers:

It's a Reflexxion cowl hood, # 731800. But they are no longer manufactured and the ones that are left at the vendors are even more expensive than before. I hear that Keystone Automotive still has them.

Magunda Pare! Looks super on your black beauty Joe. :cheers: BTW, is your hood unlatched (right side) in pics 2 & 3?

Check the rear shackle where it bolts to the frame. That's where I had a squeak in the rear. Replaced the stock shackles with new Teraflex greasable shackles and that cured it. I put on new stock UCAs about a month ago with new rubber bushings in both the arms and axle, and they squeak like mad. I douche them down w. a rubber lubricant but it comes back after a couple of weeks. The old LCAs never squeaked. :fs1:

The angle from perpendicular of the LWB roll bar tubes to the wheel wells forward face is greater than the SWB roll bar as the wheel wells sit further back in the LWB. Someone close by should grab this thing (and leave it intact) as the LWB bars are very scarce. I shipped one awhile back via Greyhound for $60 to Cali, so not too expensive.

Call Mike Gilbert @ (800) 726-2104, Lambert Jeep Parts Dept. in NH. He should have one. Tell him Don from Arab, AL said to give you a good deal. :cheers:

While the D35 c-clip axle does not require them when converting to disk brakes, the D44 (and non-c-clip D35) require the use of machined spacers to load the bearing seals so they will seat properly. Instead of getting them fabbed, you can call Teraflex and get them for $6.95/ea + shipping. That's all I needed when I swapped over the disks from the D35 c-clip to the D44.

Glad you got her done. :thumbsup:

Here's your photos: HO = 91+ XJ/MJ Mopar system vs. the craptacular Renix system, 1990 and below. Lots of posts in the forum detailing the differences, do a search, the HO is an upgrade. Only IF you do have to do a drive train swap, swap to the HO. If after your analysis the engine is okay, and can be salvaged, do it and retain the Renix system. It will be easier. BTW, that rig looks definitely worth salvaging for sure mate. :cheers:

Thanks mnkyboy, wasn't aware of the previous thread. It's in NE GA, just down the road a bit from me, so not a northern rust bucket - which is good. Even though, if it's been stored for that many years w/o any preservation, there will be a lot of work to get it roadworthy, especially on the mechanicals as I'm sure you know. It's all very doable especially if it still looks like the single pic I see, and it all depends how much you can get it for. The mechanicals are easy; it looks like an excellent platform you have work from if the interior is decent. Me, if the guy wants scrap price, I'd pay no more than $200-$300 over that tops for it, then do an assessment of the drive train. If shot, probably is, pick up a donor 91+ HO wrecked XJ and swap it all in. Would be a good project.

Need more info. Where are you located? How was the 88 stored i.e. out in the weather, barn, garage, indoors? Some pics would help. The Olympic Edition MJ is not a classic, but even though it was just a trim package, it's much more desirable than an ordinary 88. "Assume that the body, interior is in good/very good condition", what does that mean? Is it? Can't really answer intelligently until some pics are posted. :cheers:

Lot's of work went into this rig: HERE

:thumbsup: Just raggin' ya. Post up some some pics when you can. :cheers:

Great! Was it a Commanche or a Comanche? ;)

All the above matters: tilt/non-tilt, delay wipers or not, column/floor shift, and vehicle year. Here's a good place to find the right one: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-turn-signal-components/jeep-cherokee-xj.htm

Yep, looks like it's for a LWB. Good deal though, and it's factory. Original: Image Not Found Craig's list:

Should be close IF the polarity is correct.