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Fezzik

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    Halfway between Portland, ME and Portsmouth, NH

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Comanche Fan

Comanche Fan (3/11)

  1. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=34993&p=346445&hilit=junk+yard+upgrade#p346445 Is this what you are looking for??
  2. I'm pretty sure I saw one like that in the pub, but it was for XJ parts that you could upgrade too, let me see if I can find it
  3. FYI the valve cover bolts are only supposed to be in the neighborhood of 30 inch/pounds tight, which wasn't even hand tight for me.
  4. yes, IIRC it was
  5. Hmmm, 27 hours of driving :rotf: , I can barely trust my MJ to 2 hours, so I think I'm out, but it sounds like a great time!
  6. http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/2905238353.html Doesn't look that bad, and it says it's from FL! If I could swing it I'd really think about buying just for the bed for my '88
  7. That should fit anything you can lift legally in MA very nicely, but the door height is a little more important or you'll be going :doh: That means you'll only be an hour away from my house, Don if you do come up I'd swing down to buy you a beer with all the help you've given me
  8. congrats, looks good. shoot, add a farmers porch around the left side and that's exactly what I'll be looking for when I upgrade
  9. Thanks for the quick help, I got lucky this morning with a cold engine when I went to add oil and the cap actually came off, I noticed in that link Hornbrod that it talks about it happening with a hot engine. but when I leave work I'm headed to get an aftermarket one.
  10. Ok, '88 4.0 AX-15 MJ, So I replaced my valve cover last year with a steel one from a 97 ZJ and I used the plastic oil cap from that one, for the last couple of days I've noticed my oil pressure gauge fluctuating when I come off the gas where before it used to be a pretty steady 40 psi while warming up and 20 psi afterwards. I finally got some time to check the oil and it was below the add line, and it is time to do an oil change, but I do need to drive it some before I have the time to do that. Ok, sorry for the extra details, the filler cap is stuck on, it ratchets if I try to loosen or tighten it, I've read about replacements from NAPA, Advance etc.. but before I destroy the old one, is it possible to add some oil through the dip stick tube, I don't see any reason why not, but just want to check with the knowledge bank here before making my problem worse. TIA Karl
  11. Well, were to start, as long as you keep it amber you should be ok, but YMMV and you may want to check your state laws first. Ok, now for websites http://www.swps.com are just a couple of websites I can thing of off the top of my head, I'm sure there are a ton more out there. Also if you know of any local public safety outfitters around you they usually carry amber bars too. FYI, my plans call for a whelen edge, just because I think the strobes look better on the older trucks. I'm doing my for accessory lights too, I'm going to have rear facing white lights in the bar to use as cargo lights.
  12. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/nsg370.htm According to that site, there is a bell housing for a4.0 and it is compatible with a 231 23 spline. I don't know if the measurements would work for the MJ, but they are listed on the site. where you are building one from scratch you may need to do a custom crossmember and drive shaft.
  13. Here is a nice site that list the dimensions of most trucks http://www.kanopykingdom.com/truck_bed_size_charts.htm and IIRC the older rangers are the closest fit, but I think they are even a little short in the length and cab height.
  14. I have one that I took out of my truck to put in a tach, pictures are at the top of my post Here
  15. shoot, now I can't remember the split years, if yours is the same as the 88 then it will also be the same as the one with the tach that I have.
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