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Everything posted by HOrnbrod
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There are separate part numbers for the 91-92 Pioneer LWB and SWB decals. The SWB decals are no longer available, at least I can't find any. TAPE PACKAGE, Pioneer, Bodyside, Dark Silver Metallic 4636346-7 61 (SWB) 4636348-9 62 (LWB)
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Hmmm. Most of the 96 fans I've seen were 8-bladers. But 96 was a FU year.
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Get a grease job while it's up in the air.
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The motors will swap between fans. But you can't take an 8 or 10 fan blade and motor assembly and swap it into the old 5 blade housing as the fan blade will hit on the housing. It's built differently.
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Way back in the old days we used to flip our rear shackles forward to lift the rear end. It looked stupid and rode like hell, but that was how it was. :D Put your truck up on a frame lift so the rear axle is hanging by the springs, get a large crowbar, pipe, whatever you can fit between the shackle bolts and push it back with the bar. Should pop right back to normal. :cheers:
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Yeah, these are the last Pioneer decals around for the HO LWB Rob. I'll shoot you the info if you want. "As of 4/23/91 the "PIONEER" decal has been removed from item 1, see item 4. ion as described in the Chrysler repair manual." The Pioneer decal (goes at the rear fender) is included too.
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Well, it's irrelevant now Jim. I screwed up and ordered NOS 91-92 PIONEER decals, not Eliminator. Caught it this morning and was able to cancel the order. Should have known it was too good to be true. :doh: If anyone needs NOS Pioneer decals for a 91-92 LWB, let me know via PM and I'll send you the source info. $75/side. Perfect condition too.
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Brake bleeding AAAAARRRGGGGHHH!
HOrnbrod replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You bypassed the stock load leveling (proportioning) valve with a Jegs adj. proportioning valve and now have no fluid to the rear brakes. And are now looking to replace the existing MJ distribution block with an XJ prop valve? You only need one prop valve for the rear brakes (the Jegs) and should retain the MJ distro block. Sounds like you plugged the supply port on the distro block when you should have plugged the return line. And where is the suspected "clog"? I haven't done this (eliminate the load leveling valve), nor ever plan to unless it goes belly-up (then I'll replace it w. a Toyota load leveling valve or similar). There are several writeups detailing how to do this load leveling valve elimination correctly, perhaps Eagle will chime in here again. -
Course were still bros Rob. :thumbsup: It's just a matter of cultivating choice parts guys and having a clue of where all the belly-up JeeP dealerships purged their old NOS parts. I just get lucky sometimes, maybe 10% of the time, but it's getting more and more difficult. Like the Elim decals for the LWB were available, as there were very few 91-92 LWB Elims produced, but there are none to find for the SWB. :dunno:
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Figured that would shut Rob up. :cheers: Anyhow, I found a NOS set of 91-92 Long Bed Eliminator decals for about the same price as Spencer's repos; will be here in a few days. In the meantime I'll puzzle out how to "Loose the swoosh!" w/o the need for a repaint. Suggestions welcome. :yes:
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Keep hangin' Jim. I'm right behind you. :cheers:
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When I hear from the TV talking heads of a front approaching and the lightning and tornado warnings, I immediately log into a weather channel to watch the front. When it's about a mile away from town, at least 50% of the time the power goes hard down. Depending on the size of the front, it comes on again in about 30 minutes to an hour after the front has passed. It happens too much to be coincidental, and doesn't happen in other nearby towns with a different power company than our crappy Mom and Pop Co-op. And we are stuck with these bastids, as well as telephone and CATV as they are the only games in town. :fs1: The hit last week was definitely close, and power was out for about six hours. Fried a lot of electronics in the house, and blew up two fluorescent fixture ballasts in my storage shed so hard that they blew holes through the roof. The neighbors lost some electronics too, but not like I did.
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Well, we just went through another two hour power regularly scheduled power shutdown here because a lightning/thunder front came through. Common here. We have a technology challenged cooperative power company and telephone company that have a "small town" monopoly in the courts that effectively keeps out the more progressive companies who would like to market here, like AT&T, Charter TV/Phone bundles, and many others. Last week, tis the season, a huge front passed through, and I guess the powers that be decided to take a chance and NOT shut down. Needless to say, we took a lightning hit that blew out my modem, computer ethernet port, a couple of TVs, several florescent fixture ballasts, CATV, etc. And yes, I have an excellent ground system. I've lived 20-30 years off-and-on in 3rd world countries all over the world where we were lucky to have a good solid 5-6 hours/daily of power; but we all had generators and had to make do. Not that bad here yet, but DAMN, I can't believe this is the norm here. Been back in the States since 02 permanently, and Mama, who is from the Philippines, is making noises to move back there when the kids get out of college and out of house. I'm seriously considering it. If I can ship my MJ of course. :D Are there any other places where you guys live that have these problems? We've lived here off and on between overseas assignments, and the utilities were better 10-15 years ago. I've freaking had it..........
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:cheers: :clapping:
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Not a chance Mike. :D Well, as you know, I'd like to lose it. BUT it is the original dealer installed decal, and I've never seen another. Tell you what Rob; if I try to pull it and it pulls the paint off since it was installed over new paint in 02, I'll need you to fly down here and do all the prep work for a new paint job. Deal? :yes:
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There was only one color/combo offered from the factory according to the manual Joe: 4636 350-1, TAPE PACKAGE, Bodyside, Silver/Charcoal The silver wouldn't show up for moi. Also the damn red swoosh on the side has to be removed from my truck, and I'm afraid I'd have to repaint if I removed it. Ain't chancing that just for some decals, much as I like them.
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Brake bleeding AAAAARRRGGGGHHH!
HOrnbrod replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
All I did was rework some of the lines going over the axle and did not break any of the load leveling valve lines. If a fitting was allowing air in, wouldn't it also allow fluid out? I would think so. I'm not losing any fluid. Thought about that too, but I never touched the master and didn't allow it to drain dry. :dunno: The brakes are good, but all that air isn't "right", so it bugs me. Another thing: after I put everything back together, I tried to gravity bleed the rear wheels as I usually do for a few hours, and no fluid came out. Not trying to hijack, but maybe we have a common problem(s). -
Yeah, that's how they would look on my gray truck too. So I've decided not to do it. Also Spence never sent me any samples as promised to do some testing so the heck with it. They look great on Joe's black truck though. :cheers:
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Brake bleeding AAAAARRRGGGGHHH!
HOrnbrod replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Must be that time of the year for bloody bleeding brake problems. I've been through two freaking quarts of brake fluid since I swapped out the rear axle trying to bleed the system. Air, more air, then more air ad nauseam. Haven't even gotten past the rear wheels yet. Bleeding as I always do the old fashioned way, pump pedal, release bleed screw, pedal goes to floor, air bubbles come out, tighten bleed screw. I use a clear hose submerged in brake fluid to prevent air being sucked back in, no joy. Even tried the "Speed Bleeder" screws, same. BUT the brake pedal is firm and the braking is great as before with the old axle. Can easily lock up all four wheels as before on a panic stop and I have retained the load leveling valve. I'm seriously considering going to the dealer (something I've never done ever with the MJ) and trying a pressure bleeder. But the brakes are just fine with zero spongy pedal. I don't get it............. :dunno: -
Hey Jim, can you send me a copy of the erection instructions? I could use the help. :D
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Factory fog lamp wiring?
HOrnbrod replied to Blue88Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Don't see why not Jim, as long as it's 95 and below. Mine was a blue 15 amp in the PDC in the Engine Compartment, the label is on the top of the PDC cover. The fuse is the most likely culprit, but if not, it could be the fog lamp relay on the left front bulkhead. -
Factory fog lamp wiring?
HOrnbrod replied to Blue88Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Nope, can't post it because in some states it's illegal to have your HI beams and fog lights on at the same time and I'll get blasted by someone. :cheers: -
Factory fog lamp wiring?
HOrnbrod replied to Blue88Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
See this thread. Shoot me a PM with an email address and I can send you a wiring diagram for adding fogs to an MJ that doesn't have the factory wiring by using existing harness wiring from the dash to the front of the truck. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15058&hilit=fog+light+schematic&start=15 -
Reading OBDI 91 and 92 MJ Fault Codes
HOrnbrod posted a topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to 1995 OBD1 Jeep models you have a way of reading fault codes which can be accessed without a scanner by reading/counting the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, ON then OFF three times (do not start) within 5 seconds ending in the ON position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and stop). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well (no fault codes) you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. All codes end with the 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them correctly. After a problem has been repaired the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12. Here's a video provided by forum member cjomanche showing this procedure. The codes shown are: 12 - 35 - 55 Code Description Probably Cause 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids. ____________________________________________________ From Mopar: 11 No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. 12 Positive battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. 13 No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmosphere) pressure reading from start-up. 14 MAP sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. 5 volt output to MAP sensor open. 15 No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during driving load conditions. 17 Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits 21 Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency. Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. Oxygen sensor voltage too low, tested after cold start. (Upstream or Downstream) Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating temperature. 22 Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage. 23 Intake air temperature sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. 24 Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. 25 A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed. 27 Injector #1 thru 6, or any combination of individual injectors driver does not respond properly to the control signal. 31 An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit. Insufficient or excessive vapor flow detected during fuel evaporation emission system operation. 33 An open or shorted condition detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit. (A/C clutch relay circuit) 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage. 37 Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement. An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit. Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch. Auto only. 41 An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit. 42 An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit. An open condition detected in the ASD relay output circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the fuel pump relay control circuit. An open circuit between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. Circuit shorted to voltage between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. No movement of fuel level sender detected. 43 Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time. Misfire detected in one or more cylinders 1 thru 6. (4 and 6 cyls.) 44 Battery temperature sensor in voltage above or below acceptable range. 46 Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. 47 Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output circuit. 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor. 52 A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor. 53 PCM Internal fault condition detected. 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking. 55 Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp. 62 PCM Failure to update service reminder indicator. 63 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM. 64 Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 72) 65 Power steering high pressure seen at high speed. (2.5L only) 72 Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 64) 77 Malfunction detected with poser feed to speed control servo solenoids. -
I have a 91 4.0 can I pull codes on this trtuck
HOrnbrod replied to snacob14's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to1997 models you have a way of reading for fault codes which can be accessed without any scanners like other models by reading how the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, on and off three times within 5 seconds ending in the on position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and hold ). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. This is how all codes end with is this 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12 though. Code Description Most likely reason 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.
