HOrnbrod

Yep, I have those same Explorer rotors from Teraflex (drilled for both 5x5 and 5x4.5) bolted on the rear now. + a spare set. Thickness of the Explorer rotors vs. the WJ calipers might be an issue? Do you know the nominal thickness of the WJ rotors? Sam, you might just have come up with a good economical solution mate. Seems logical - really appreciate it.

IF the 4WD WJ hubs with the stub shafts will bolt in? Not sure - no clue. Pat had a similar idea. This would be an ideal solution for moi.

Yes, I've seen the NAXJA kit. Amazing that someone goes to all the trouble of what looks like an excellent big brake kit together, announces the price, then instant silence. :D I hear you Sam, but I have no desire to go 4WD. I'm looking more to adapting an existing 2-pot caliper (the Aussie Ford Falcon caliper looks doable) and use the same rotors with a machined custom 2WD bracket w/o needing spacers. Have known Marcus (Gojeep) for years and am corresponding w. him, but he's a busy guy.

Thanks Sam. Looking for an alternative to the over-the-top Vanco solution. Even looking for a dual piston caliper I can adapt up front. I did this on my bike (found an obscure Brembo/BMW dual piston caliper that was a near bolt-on) and it made a world of difference. Next project up - will start doing homework. :cheers:

Hey Sam. I haven't done any research yet, or ever read a writeup, but do you think it's doable w/o too much effort to add the bigger WJ front brakes to my 91 2WD MJ? It has the one piece rotor/hubs. :dunno:

$300 used tail lights? That's freaking amazing.

Just did this on my new D44. I used a 1-1/8" deep socket I had. The D44 uses shims, so no worries about crush sleeves. Just re-torque back to specs after you replace the seal. Also inspect the yoke shaft for wear where the seal rides, most common cause of leaks. Mine was a bit worn, so I used a new u-bolt style pinion yoke from Randy's R&P. It's advisable to replace the nut too, but that's up to you. :cheers:

Dayem! Thought you went back to sea Paul. Welcome back shipmate. :cheers:

I'd take a Monza any day over a Chevette. That was the worst POS Chevy ever made. What did it have, about a one liter engine putting out 40HP or so? :ack: Could be. I thought 76 was the mandatory year for all US domestic vehicles. Maybe some cars had cats earlier than 76? :dunno:

They were mandated for all new US domestic vehicles in 1976, and Jeeps were no exception so I'd say then. But some of export countries didn't mandate cats until the early 90s, so a bolt-in resonator was available form the factory. :smart:

The correct part number for your 1989 Comanche 2.5 TBI engine (89 & 90 use the same accelerator cable and the carbed 2.5 cable is different) is 53005244. The vendor below shows several in his inventory. http://collectorsautosupply.com/

Yes. April Fool's Day is a fun day. But it's in poor taste to play the fool about your health mate. It could come back and bite you in the butt Joe. I say this because I consider you one of the more valuable members here. Live long and prosper. :cheers:

I'll narrow it down. Fool. :D

Fools. :D

I'll take that bet. :D I sold my 5.9 GC vents and drip pans for $175 on Ebay quite awhile back. Paid $20 for them. A friend stationed in the UK picked them up from a "breaker" and shipped them via military mail. In the UK, not only the Grands had these vents, but also a lot of the higher-end Limited and Orvis XJs. The vents on the XJs were non-functional though, but were functional on the Grands with drip pans.

As stated ad nauseum many many times here, the factory regulation MJ sliding rear window was 3-pane, p/n 55004224. If you have a 4-pane slider, it's aftermarket, and was available as a dealer installed option or whatever. Like mine. :D Wish I had the 3-pane though.

I've read in several places that Reflexxion no longer manufacturers the XJ cowl hoods, and the leftovers at some of their dealers are going for $600+ now. Ouch! Glad I got mine for $150 off Ebay a few years ago. :D But the LeBaron vents do make excellent ceiling HVAC discharge vents.

Yep, best way to go. Not to the snorkel though. :cheers:

Finally replaced the tired stretched original MJ e-brake cables that didn't perform with the recent D44 axle install. I used new AC Delco flex cables and modded them to give me plenty of adjustment for the Ford Explorer disk internal e-brake. It's now a true emergency brake as it should be, not just for parking. Smoke tested by slamming it on at 50 MPH and it stopped quickly. Not locking the rear wheels, but was a nice controlled stop.

:agree: Another example: These were okay, had drip pans to keep the H2O out also, but don't compare with a cowl hood for cooling down under-hood temps. Hood vents are mostly more cosmetic than functional.

I'd much rather have a herd of rat and king snakes around my property than rats and mice and other vermin. King snakes also kill the occasional rattler or copper heads that we have down here. Only snakes I don't like are the cottonmouths that infest the lake out back. I've had the bastids come right up to the boat and try to get in several times. Mr. 9mm usually ends their aggression pretty quick. 8) Back on topic: DO do the 95-96 master/booster upgrade. It's a good one.

Agree, am sorry for your loss. Best thing for you right now is to do is get a new Heeler pup. It helps.

Draw a straight line between the two track bar mounting points. It's nearly parallel to the drag link in your rig.

That's going to be tough to find. Your current LWB 2WD drive shaft is about 60" long. Why don't you get everything bolted together then have yours shortened and balanced? :thumbsup:

Yep. Good people, products, and never had any problems at all. :thumbsup: