HOrnbrod

For a 3" or less lift, for sure use the WJ lower arms. The bigger oval bushings provide a super improvement in handling and no worries on tire rub at full lock turns. There is plenty of adjustment room to add additional factory shims at the rear of the arms. I used one additional factory 4mm shim on each side, p/n 52003976, and these brought the caster angle back to factory specs with my 3" lift. There's no need to mess with the uppers arms unless they are due for replacement. They usually are, so I did replace mine with new OEM units. Very easy to do and was verified w. my magnetic finder, then an alignment check by the local dealer.

Not sure until I get your measurement. Your pic below illustrates my problem. What is the distance between the fuel rail front supply line to the end of the red stainless hose fitting? I might have enough room using the straight tubing adapter then a 45* hose fitting depending on the measurement. My TJ PS pump sets further aft than the one on your pic, thus the problem. Image Not Found I used the TJ PS pump only because of it's higher output pressure I needed for the quick ratio ZJ steering gear box I have. My MJ is a street rig, and the quick steering box probably isn't a good option for an offroad rig as is yours. The PSC pump would be great for your application though for sure. I like your AN solution for the tranny cooler lines. You have me thinking on some AN upgrades for my rear disk brakes also. Who's your helper sitting on the rad? Good stuff Mike.

Thanks very much Mike. :cheers: I have been checking the Earls site since I read your post. Because of my weird setup (01 intake w. an 04 Wrangler power steering pump) I'll need a 45* or 90* tubing adapter straight off the fuel rail to give me room to clear around the power steering pump tank. But Earl's doesn't make one, they only have the straight tubing adapters that you used on your fuel rail. On my rig, there's not enough real estate to use those. I'm very glad I read your post today. I went down and checked it out and the plastic OEM fuel supply line off the front port to the regulator was showing signs of wear from rubbing on the PS pump reservoir. I was able to carefully heat the fuel rail nipple and bend it slightly back enough to give me enough clearance. But I'm still looking for a 45* 5/16" AN tubing adapter from another manufacturer that will work as I very much like the setup you used.

Not sure about the Renix O2 sensor voltage output, mine's a 91 HO. All wide band A/F meters need a 1-5 VDC input to function, so you will need to swap out your narrow band O2 sensor for a wide band O2 sensor to use a wide band A/F meter. But the ECU needs a 0-.5 VDC O2 sensor input, and this signal is provided by an aux output from the wide band interface. That's how I have mine wired up and am pretty sure the Renix system O2 sensor voltage output is the same as the HOs, 0-.5 VDC. Another option is to use a narrow band A/F meter (cheap!) that uses the 0-.5 VDC input from the stock O2 sensor. These also work well and will do indicate everything you want it to, just more difficult to interpret.

Glad you found the problem. Sometimes in-tank fuel delivery problems are difficult to diagnose and repair. Good job. :cheers: But just curious for future your posts: Is English a second language for you? Would make it much easier to help you if we knew that. :thumbsup:

Absolutely. I've had an AEM unit installed for a few years now and think it's now probably the gauge I watch most. It clearly shows the closed to open loop transition when the O2 sensor kicks in, and I usually wait till that happens after cold starting before driving off. Just this week I noticed that on WOT it was running a bit lean and pinged a bit on WOT. Checked out the fuel pressure at the rail and it was a little low and so adjusted the fuel pressure regulator up a couple of PSI. Now the A/F Stoich is normal in all conditions and all's well. It's a super tool for monitoring the A/F Stoich ratio right for best power vs. economy, and letting you know that all the sensors are working as they should. Especially on the Renix systems.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342&hilit=electric+fan

We're lucky enough to still have a Mom and Pop independent auto supply house that's been here for about 100 years and hasn't been driven out of business by the China chain stores like the Autismzones, Advances, and O'Reillys. These are the people I always go to if I don't have to have it RIGHT NOW. You can go in there needing a weird o-ring or specialized bolt or fitting and they always find one for you and it's usually free because they know you'll be back. The China chains don't even bother looking. Three generations of the same family have all worked there, and even the daughters are all very knowledgeable as it's all they have ever done. Real oinkers though. :yes: If they have to order a part, it may cost a couple of bucks more, but it will be right the first time and of better quality. Most all experienced car guys in our town who know what's up supports them. I suppose that's why they are still surviving.

Adapting the 4.0 h/o fuel rail to A/N fittings with Earl's #1 OEM tubing adapters Excellent writeup. When I installed the 01 intake manifold, it put pressure on the plastic supply and return lines dur to it's design. I've never trusted it. This an excellent solution to provide some flexibility for those lines. Do you have a laundry list with part numbers and sizes to do this mod? Have never worked Earl's fittings/tubing. Thanks

Exacerly. I replaced the power robbing mechanical fan with a 10-blade 97+ XJ electric fan. This fan is now my primary cooling fan and is set to come on at 195* LO speed, then 215* HI speed by an external controller. 99% of the time it runs at LO speed, or not at all in cold weather. IF environmental/hot/stuck-in-traffic conditions warrant additional cooling, then the stock E-fan then kicks in at about 220*, or when I use the A/C. It's a good setup and works better than the original mechanical + one E-fan setup. :cheers:

Errr, we're talking 91-92 models for this topic mate, all MPI.

If you added "I don't get no respect" to that monologue you'd sound just like Rodney Dangerfield. :rotf:

It's easy if you use a regulation tool like this. Pulled hundreds of them. :D Image Not Found

You need a gauge needle puller tool to remove the pointers safely. It's like a mini gear puller. The below works well too. It's an IC chip puller. You can make your own or radio shack has them, Pep Boys too. You slide it under, pry up, and off it comes with no scratching on the gauge face.

Looks like it. The XJ and MJ senders are different animals. The pumps themselves will interchange however.

The one shown in the picture is for the XJ. XJ and MJ units are not compatible. I have a NOS 91-92 unit and it's the mirror image of the one shown in the picture. Sorry........ :(

This will help ya Rick-man: http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARoilFilterConversion/OilFilterConversion.htm

Joe, which pinion yoke are you using? The OEM one with the u-joint straps or the HD one that uses ubolts instead of the straps? The OEM yoke that came with the axle I bought had some slight grooves around the seal surface (that's why it's leaking I'm sure), so since I have to replace it I went with the stronger ubolt pinion yoke. AAARG. Should have done it the first time.

Okay - looked a little closer with a magnifying glass and the National seal has the spring on the lip; the Timkin seal doesn't. I'll use the National seal then. And the leaking seal on the pinion shaft has no spring either. :dunno:

This is a National seal p/n 39118-2; came from Randy's with the new u-bolt pinion yoke. I also have a Timkin seal for the same application that looks different. Same dimensions though.

Going to replace the pinion yoke and leaking seal with the u-bolt style yoke, and just want to be sure on the seal placement. Is the correct orientation side A (with the stampings) to the outside or side B? This seal looks a bit different than the one on the axle now. Pretty sure it's side A to the outside. Am I correct? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Well, that about eliminates a grounding problem. I'm not familiar with the 2.5s and don't have the electrical manual for it so I'd just be guessing. Unplug your ECU and check for any recessed and/or corroded connectors. If no joy I'd start checking the sensors. I can't see how the headlamps ON can affect idling if it's a fuel problem. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

Measure the charging voltage across the battery posts @ idle, then move the - lead to each ground point leaving the + lead on the + battery terminal. Repeat the voltage readings with the headlamps on then let us know. :wrench:

Assume the 4.0 strait 6 is in a Comanche? What model / year? Call back when you have more information. :roll:

Ah-so. Gracias Rob. :cheers: