HOrnbrod

My backyard. Summer Winter

:agree: About everything else from the V8 ZJ steering/front suspension is beefier except the drag link. Same p/n for all. :cheers:

Nope, I'll not take that bet because I'll lose.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Yes, I've seen that on Ebay. I have a correct NOS 91-92 MJ sender and compared it to the Ebay pic; it's all wrong, the p/u pipe bends the other way. The one on Ebay is for the HO XJs. I'll post some pics of both later so you can see. :cheers:

91-92 MJ sending units are a two year animal. The 90 and below Renix units will not interchange because of the fuel gauge voltage output polarity change for the HO years. Nor will an HO XJ unit work, mirror image. Your only options are to repair the one you have, or find a usable one from a 91-92 MJ at the PnPs. Good luck.

Got that right Tom. That's all I ever do. :thumbsup:

Used to be. Had a good friend, an old Navy buddy, who ran a muffler shop here. It had five bays, four with lifts and I could go there just about any time and use one if it was free for beer. :cheers: Even had a key so I could go in there on the weekends when he was closed. He retired last year and sold out. The new guy is a real redneck tool and I haven't been back since. Sure miss that place. :( I'm hoping an alignment and balancing will take care of it. Spline engagement is the same as with the D35, so I don't think so. It's a real quick vibe, ON at 45; OFF at 50. No where else. It's actually much smoother than it was before across the band. I'll keep in mind the u-joints though. Dayem, I hate replacing them.....

This is true since the drive shaft is an inch shorter. The pinion angle still checks out right w. the olde angle finder. Noticed also the steering wheel moved about an inch ccw off center after changing the UCAs. Might as well have them check the alignment too.

Ain't no stinkin' crud in my wheels Jim. :yes:

Sounds good. Let us know how they work. :thumbsup:

U-joints are less than six months old. Hopefully it just threw a wheel weight. Bout time to have them balanced anyhow.

Nice! :cheers: Any 92 MJ is a great find regardless of the build date. BUT being a PA truck, I would have definitely brought a bondo gun or at least a magnet for smoke testing. I'd rather see it as built w. the original paint. New paint is a red flag. Hope it's a solid unit. :D

Just throwing this out for some opinions. Finished the D44 regear and install, got the leaks fixed, and am out driving semi aggressively until the diff gears get steeled in. This vibe is not a big problem, but I like things right. I get a very minor harmonic vibe through the butt dyno and in the steering wheel while passing through 45-50 MPH. Below and above is perfect, all the way to the speedo pegs @ 85MPH. I get it both accelerating and coasting thru this 5MPH band only. The drive shaft was shortened 1" for the D44 by a good shop, and rebalanced. Tires are all in the same positions as with the previous D35. I also replaced the upper control arms and bushings during the D44 down time. I can easily live with this vibe problem, but it bugs me. :hmm: To test, went out on the interstate today with the wifey following in her Malibu SS. The goal was to see if I could find a second harmonic vibe at higher speed to help troubleshooting. Rammed the stroker past 4K RPM, speedo was pegged, smooth as silk all the way. My speedo is calibrated and correct. Wife said I was past 95MPH and rising on her clock when she backed off. There was no second harmonic. Smooth all the way. All in all, feel good with the new 4.10 44 axle, but WTF could be causing this stupid 45-50 MPH vibe?

They will work fine, best if they are grade 8, bit long though. Use grade 8 HI nuts with them (more thread engagement) w. a couple of flat washers , torque them up, then add a lock nut. After a couple of hundred miles, re-torque. That's where I am now on my D44 install. :cheers:

O'Reilly's? Maybe the counter drone gave you the wrong part? :dunno:

Did you use the OEM factory harmonic balancer from the dealer? The ones they sell now won't go all the way on w/o removing the oil slinger. If you used an aftermarket HB then it's a different problem.

Really? First I've heard of that notorious fault. So how does the neg terminal somehow lose its ground/connectivity by being over tightened? Are there torque specs for this?

Butt ugly and looks stupid IMNSHO though Sam. But fine if your MJ is an Amphicar in heavy seas wannabe. :yes: Crusty's POS intake tube is metal. It does a fine job heating the air up much higher than the stock system does.

I reused them from my D35 axle. They are the same p/ns for either axle and all springs, including my MT springs. Don't know if you have a LWB or SWB, but in either case they will work, you just swap sides with the plates because of the difference in the shock mounts. If you use 9/16" u-bolts you may have to drill them out though. I used 1/2" u-bolts.

Looks like you have the wrong part. This is the one you need: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21803&p=224803&hilit=headlight+switch#p224803

Then you can reuse them.

Your signature says 2WD. I miss something? Either way the AW4 has to be for 4WD or have the 2WD tail piece. Driveshaft length will be different too depending on application.

Still doesn't answer the question. I want to know also, especially on the fit. They're all probably cut from the same mold anyhow...........

He probably does Gary. He just posted it up for poor slobs like you and me. :cheers: