HOrnbrod

:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

I did. On this one anyhow. Your posts are always interesting. And satirical. Sometimes even informative.

I'd like to see the air dam. :cheers:

The you gotta move South Rob. Love to have you down here mate. :cheers:

Sir Mr. Satire Sam. Gotta love it. And half the guys didn't get it. :yes:

Ooops - sorry Rob. :( For some reason I get you mixed up with maddzz1 (Jim).

I don't have one either and Eagle's spreadsheet come right up? :dunno:

Spot on for my tires/gears/tranny Eagle. I like. :cheers:

Very nice Shelby Jim. :cheers: I hope you keep it parked it in the winter mate.

Then you will be doing a 50% half-azzed job. I changed my UCAs out recently, and the arm bushing looked to be in good shape, but the one's in the axle were much worse. If you don't change both bushings, there's really no point because both bushings need to be replaced, that's what wears out. I used a similar home built press described in this article (it used to have pics) and it worked well. Just lubed it good w. PB Blaster out and in. As far as the WJ LCA steel tubes that goes thru the rubber bushing, I just trimmed them off about 2mm longer than the rubber bushings so they just squeezed into the mount on both ends. This made sure it didn't damage/compress the rubber when torqued down. Doing the control arms right w. new rubber makes a huge difference in the front end feel, even if it's a PITA, especially when you hit a pothole. Absolutely no steering shake as before.

With all the white stuff, hard to tell. If the rear roll bar legs tie into the forward slant of the wheel wells, it's probably factory. Many 86's got the factory roll bar as they were all LWB models and a cheap option at the time.

To answer your question, the MJ HO pump itself is the same as compatible XJ years. It's the sending units that are unique. There's been a lot of that going around lately. I'm thinking it has something to do with the increased ethanol content in todays gas. :dunno:

Depends on the condition of the MT springs you use. I used a new set of 3+2 MT springs, and got a full 3" of lift keeping them @ SUA, and my original 4-leaf standard springs were in good shape. They eventually settled down about 1/2 inch and have stayed there. Used MT springs will be less lift and will vary on the condition of the leaf packs. Predicting exactly how much lift you'll get with used springs no matter what the configuration is basically an educated guess and you won't know until you try.

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm

I like this one from AEM: http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-o2-air-fuel-uego-gauge-kit-745 You can find them cheaper on Ebay. :cheers:

Clydesdale and friends - Budweiser mash powered. :cheers:

Frank, I hear ya and understand your side. I couldn't survive longer than a week working in a parts store serving the mostly morons that come in. Most are clueless about what they need, could care less about the quality of the part, and want it free. I'd be pulling Mr. 9mm out from under the counter and blasting their kneecaps. Don't have a lot of patience dealing with the public. Wouldn't do it. I'd rather flip burgers......... I don't have to though. :cheers:

They are cool. Plus curved, solid, and sexy.® I had mine chromed even. Plus the big oval bushings make your rig corner like a sports car. :yes:

From any 99-04 Jeep® Grand Cherokee WJ.

A heavy fiberglass shell, like the Leer MJ-specific models, works well too. :cheers:

Understand - AN hose end fittings must match the hose type. Very educational thread for me, learned a lot from you mate. :cheers:

Thanks Mike. You are correct, 3" lift w. 31s. And I do have a flaring tool, bought and used it when I had to fab new lines for the 96 brake master cylinder / booster swap. I'll post up some pics back here when I get the engine compartment fuel lines done. One more question: are all the different manufacture's fittings, like Earles, Aeroquip, etc. compatible? Like say a 3/8" straight -6 tubing adapter fitting is the same from all the vendors? Really appreciate your help and sharing your knowledge. :cheers:

Got it Mike - thanks very much for your help. :thumbsup:

Yep, looks like it will work using the straight tubing adapter and a 45* hose end. Thanks for the pics. I still have two questions though. On the fuel rail I measured the nipples. The supply line nipple was .3125" (5/16") tubing and the return nipple was larger, .375 (3/8") tubing. So I have to get different size tubing adapters, correct? Also, in looking at the Earles site, it states that the tubing adapter needs a min. of 3/4" of tubing. So I'm thinking they don't have to be cut off as there's enough tubing after the quick-connect ring.

Thanks again Mike. More good applications for the AN fittings. I have rear disk brakes installed and still use the stock load leveling MJ brake valve, but I see from your pics that the "rats nest" back there can be cleaned up and improved by using an aluminum distribution block and flex stainless tubing. This is good stuff. Any chance when you get time to measure the fuel rail supply line distance I asked for to see if I squeeze in the AN tube adapters w. a 45* hose connector? I also fabbed up a pair of soft vice adapters using some angle aluminum I had laying around. Based on your pics. :cheers: