HOrnbrod

The XJ seat design change was in 1994 so this limits MJ "bolt-in" seats to XJs 1993 and below using the MJ bracketry.

http://www.detoursusa.com/bumperbrow.php

That's carnuck's modus operandi. :yes: Have you checked for any fault codes using the key? Worth a shot.............

Thanks very much for the kind words. :cheers: The amber parking lights are for Export (EURO) models, and the part numbers are 56000852 and 56000853. Google those part numbers for the best prices. Even Rusty's has 'em.

No sheite carnuck. Red or Garnet was not offered after 1990. It was considered too passé by the stylists. But what do they know? They thought the same thing about the black interior. :nuts:

What you have in the 92 if it's original is a Cordovan, (color #A7SA) interior, not red. It's a dark burgundy color, like the 91 Wagoneer below. Red or Garnet was not offered.

My cylinder head is from a 96 (casting #0630) and I used the MS94790 gasket - no problems. If you have a Dremel recommend you do a little grinding around the ports knocking off the little casting bumps and rough edges before installing. Helps the flow. :cheers:

Drive it a lot Mike, thanks. Did a trip to Boston in September to attend my aunt's 100th birthday and pulled a parts MZ motorcycle I picked up on the way back in NC on my bike trailer. The stroker has about 40K on it now, still running great. :cheers:

Your belt routing is correct. Four additional small things you might need to do are: 1. Change out or modify the bracket that holds the fuel lines on the bottom of the manifold. The mounting is different. I just used an additional OEM hose clamp on the bottom of the original bracket to provide a three-point mount as on the original. 2. The front fuel line nipple on the rail will have to be bent back to the rear very slightly to relieve pressure on the quick connector caused by the sharp bend in the plastic fuel line as you route it under the manifold. I used an 04 Wrangler PS pump, so depending on the pump you use it may not be a problem. 3. The O2 sensor harness will pass closer to the headers due to the newer manifold, so I wrapped it in heat protection wrap. If you have the stock header it may not be a problem. 4. Check the new belt after the install as it will be riding very close to the old idler pulley boss. I ground about 1/4" off to make sure it didn't rub. As far as the vacuum connections, I had a box full of vacuum lines and fittings from various Mercedes' I used to have, and I just made up my own connections using mostly those parts. I can take a better pic tomorrow if you need it, but it's not difficult. Did not have to change out any fittings on the manifold.

Damn - how hard is that?? :nuts: :nuts:

Man, if you're worrying maximus about a fairly short trip like that, your heep must be in sad shape, you don't maintain your MJ, or you've never driven that far before. Basic tool kit and fluids (ATF, water, fuel can, etc.) is all you'll need. Trust in your MJ. :cheers:

Yep, that's the first thing I thought of when I looked at it. It should match the width of the MJ butt end. But I think that could be easily remedied. Functional, simple, good looks, stout, and affordable. I think it's a winner. :cheers:

I just tried. Took about 3 nanoseconds. Search string: "wiper motor". Search forum: "DIY" Check out the first hit from Motion. How hard is that??

:rotf: Way back when in the USN I was stationed on the SS-350 Dogfish, one of the last diesel subs on the East Coast. No matter where I went, and how much I scrubbed, everyone within 20' of me knew I was a off one of the pigboats. Didn't bother me though. 8) Back on topic: I use a propane radient 3-element wall unit with an optional thermostat to heat my 30'x24' garage. While it's not super cold down here we go a few weeks at a time when it's well below freezing. It's a 30K BTU unit, and I light it off about 30 minutes before I go in and it's nice and toasty, kicking on and off using one element to maintain the temp. Used very little fuel, and I don't stink diesel now. :cheers:

Hmmm. They are the home of http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/. I've purchased quite a few parts from them in the past.

My Order: 1 XL T-shirt, long sleeve, Sport Grey, Forrest Green logo 1 XL T-shirt, long sleeve, Carolina Blue, Desert Tan logo :thumbsup:

Happy birthday shipmate. :thumbsup: :USAflag:

:agree: If your goal is to to control body roll and obtain better handling, shocks alone won't do it. To do it right you'll need a beefier V8 Grand or XJ Country sway bar, firmer front coils (OME here too), a larger Teraflex adj. track bar, ZJ solid tie rod, beefier WJ LCAs, and a set on MT springs on the back is what I did. Works well, and all bolt-on components.

If you are converting a 88 2WD to auto/4WD, I'd go with a 91 XJ/MJ and up donor as the AW4s changed from 21 to 23 spline inputs in 91. Or was it 1990? :hmm: Not a big deal depending on how you will be using it, but the 23-spline is more robust and will allow you to utilize the later model t-cases.

Can I have your front clip? :brows:

OMEs.

I got some parts from a salvage store and made a press (threaded rod, long nuts, a plumbing reducer that the ID was big enough to press out the bushing, and assorted flat washers, all for about $5). It worked great and didn't stink and didn't need a BFH. It also didn't compress the bushing ears.

Very tastefully done. If the factory had offered the options you have installed maybe Chryco would be still cranking out MJs. :cheers: But don't day it's done. They never are.

Yes. Here's the wiring diagram using an XJ power mirror console switch.

It looks like someone tried to repair or extend the fuel line with some "hard" shrink tubing, the thick stuff with the adhesive inside.