HOrnbrod

2WD drive shaft yoke in 91+ = 27 splines. 2wd drive shaft yoke pulled from my 91 2.5/AX-4 = 21 splines. I discovered it by accident when I had the DS shortened for the 4wd swap, and didn't think I needed to give them a different yoke to put on when they changed the U-joints, so I ended up having to swap the 27 on. I believe it. There's only one 2WD yoke listed in the parts manual for 1991, the 27 spline one. Mine is 27 splines. But being the change year, I suppose some 21s slipped through as per usual. :dunno:

This it? http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoBumpstops.htm

2WD drive shaft yoke in 91+ = 27 splines.

Minnow trap. I use them to catch big crappie in mid-winter. :cheers:

The AW4s changed the output shaft from 21 to 23 splines in 91. So depending on the year of your Comaanche count the splines.

I used this one but the company went belly-up a few years ago. They sold off all their stock on Ebay @ 75% off. http://www.amazon.com/APC-509103-Upgrade-Harness-4Lamp/dp/B000CIFGAY

I have. When I tried Silver Stars the first time I thought they were great as the were slightly better than the stock sealed beams. I also various US export Benz's that I switched out the headlight assemblies with EURO H4 housings, that was really great. So i tried it on the MJ with Autopal H4s. Greater than the Silver Stars, except they splashed light all over the road. The Benz's had the German Hella housings with the sharp cutoff dispersal light pattern. So I got a pair of those for the MJ with the HD harness. Truly great! I suppose the HIDs would be greater still, but I'm satisfied, for now. :D So no matter what you have for lighting, there's always something better. Just upgrade until your happy if you have the $$.

Fixed it for you. Jennifer Aniston? :drool: :drool: Same thing happened to me but unfortunately the date offer came from Roseanne Barr. :ack: :( Hey man, money is money. Good point. :thumbsup:

From an old post I did about four years ago. No changes or burnt out bulbs since:

And the same thing applies to the early Dakota tail lamps unfortunately, even though they look similar. MJ tail lamps are unique animals, there are no easy substitutes w/o a whole lot of body work. That's why NOS MJ tail lamps sell upwards of $350/pair.

You have the weirdest problems. :D I've had a Hesco AFPR on mine for over five years now, and it holds pressure just fine, overnight even. Maybe the design was changed, IDK. Suggest you logon to the Hesco forum and ask Lee in the Jeep Tech forum.

Ah, okay. Did not see the movie - read the book though. :D

:dunno: Never heard that before. Maybe a WWII thing? Perhaps Jim can tell us. :yes:

?? Changed oil & filter. Replaced BOTH burned out windshield washer pumps on the inside fender well washer tank. The el-cheapo ANCO pumps from Rock Auto lasted only a little over a year. :fs1: Used NOS originals this time. It just doesn't make good economical sense to buy cheap parts.

Do you have an auto AW4? If so check the speed sensor connector and wiring for corrosion and/or obvious wiring problems up on the left side of the transmission.

I don't understand why the XJ/MJ never had headlamp relays from the factory. The fogs did. Just the voltage drop, undersize wiring, and corrosion over the years cause the otherwise satisfactory sealed beams to operate maybe at 75% efficiency. Plus burn up the headlamp switch prematurely. So a good upgrade w/o much time and $$ would be to install a ready-made harness (or make your own) with HI and LOW relays and use Silver Stars. About a 150% improvement. Maybe crappy is too harsh a word. Certainly better than the sealed beams. But the way they spray light everywhere really hurts their performance. They are simply brighter with no real pattern. Once you see the difference between the Hella light dispersal and the Autopals you can really tell.

Then get the Silver Stars and settle for a slight improvement. BTW, Are you related to Andy Rooney? :yes:

Fixed it for you. Jennifer Aniston? :drool: :drool: Same thing happened to me but unfortunately the date offer came from Roseanne Barr. :ack: :(

:agree: I too have poor eyesight at night; upgrading the head lamps is no time to cheap out. The Silver Stars are slightly better than the stock sealed beams, but nothing beats the Hella H4 housings, IPF H4 bulbs (I use 85/55 watt) with an upgraded harness. And don't waste your $$ on the crappy Autopal H4s. You think they are okay until you try the Hellas then you wonder why you ever bought them.

Renix sender is 88 ohms, HO is 105 ohms. If you convert the Renix pot polarity to the same as the HO, the Renix fuel gauge will read about 25% off. More here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15936&p=163162&hilit=polarity+fuel#p163162

There's a work-around for the Renix senders used on HO conversions but you have to pull it out and do some soldering. Still will not read quite correctly because of the pot winding difference, but it will perate in the right direction. best way though is to install a regulation HO sensor as Bo suggested. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29013&hilit=renix+sender

I have a NOS complete engine & dash harness, 91-92 HO model, 4.0L, AW4. Brand new. :D

As you know, the BWD TFS8 is a NO switch. It acts as a thermistor; when heated the resistance between the output wire and it's case ground either increases or decreases depending on it's design. Since this is a NO switch, open when cold, most likely the thermistor resistance increases based on the temp of the coolant until the switch closes, turning on the fan via it's relay. If you can't find the resistance value thresholds from BWD for this switch, you can test it in a pot of water with a thermometer, ohmmeter, and test light. Watch which way the resistance goes when it's heated (up or down) and at what resistance/temperature the test light goes out. Depending on how it goes, you might be able to change the threshold at which the temp switch closes by adding a small resistor in series with the switch output lead. Or better yet a small potentiometer so you can dial the switch closing setting in precisely.

Why not just use a resistor in series (or parallel to lower) to adjust the resistance of the sensor (thermistor)? Then you could control the NO/NC thresholds precisely. Looks like it's pretty close now.

Not quite Paradise eh? :D ZJs are the most excellent Soccer Mom rigs. I do like them though because the ZJ V8 suspension parts provide good upgrades for the MJ/XJ.