HOrnbrod

Dorman 34171. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-34171-Conditioning-Bypass-Pulley/dp/B000IYBBUG/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=Comanche%7C348&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Jeep%7C42&Year=1991%7C1991&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=001 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?catalog=42&partnum=34171&a=Search%2Bfor%2BDORMAN%2B34171

Not worried.

Don't hold your breath for this guy Jim. I've been waiting for close to a year for samples for the HO Elim OEM STOCK COLOR scrap samples so I could see if they would show up on my gray MJ, no joy. He claimed non delivery because he lost my address like three times. :nuts: AFAIK of the HO only HO Elim decals delivered: Joe received his, and another member whom I trust very much and to whom I recommended Spence as a source said his decal stripes were were not aligned and unusable. Don't know if he received a refund. So Spence, rip me if you must. All I've received so far from you is BS and non-delivery. Just relating my personal experience with this vendor - may not apply to others. :cheers:

He's looking for p/n 83506061, the shift indicator cable. Part of the cluster. If someone has this cluster laying around, there's a good chance the cable is still attached.

I think you already looked for that cluster Jake awhile back when I asked about it? :hmm:

He's not talking about the GM shift indicator on top of the column, he's referring to the MJ-unique shift indicator in the instrument cluster. Maybe someone has one of these idiot light Renix clusters laying around that they have replaced with a full gauge cluster and will part with it. Or you can go this route:

I'm up in N. AL near Huntsville. Not too far from Pensacola. Here's a good "how to" post pictures: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077

Giants fans in Oregon?

Verlander goes tonight so that's a Detroit win and a 3-2 series. Then it shifts back to Texas where the Rangers only need to win one out of the two home games. It sure doesn't look good for Los Tigres del Norte Detroit. Along with Cruz's late hitting heroics, I equally credit the Ranger bullpen for shutting down the Detroit hitters. Very surprising, I thought the Detroit bullpen was better.......

They do use a different ECU p/n, but any 91-95 4.0L OBDI ECU will work for testing purposes. The auto tranny ECU may idle a bit higher. Also recommend a yard unit, or "borrow" one for test purposes. Just do not get one from a donor with the factory security system.

He means unplugging the TCU under the right side lower dash and ohming out the solenoids at the connector pins.

Not true for HOs. If you have an A/F meter installed it's easy to see. After about two minutes max of idling even on the coldest mornings you can see the switch from open to closed loop on the meter. And the dash temp gauge had barely moved. These meters are wired directly to the O2 sensor output (both the wide and narrow band meters) and the O2 sensor doesn't operate until the ECU sees closed loop operation. I have an A/F meter on my 91, and also had one on my previous 96 and 01 XJs. They were all the same. This is not to say I recommend a lower temp thermostat (or no thermostat) than the factory 195* at all. 200*-215* is the most efficient operating range for the 4.0s and they should all have the 195* stat to maintain that operating temp.

Decals can't be "removed then reinstalled". You'll need new Elim decals. There are two sources that I know of, Spencer (read the previous threads), and here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=380339868033&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT. Can you post pics of your 91 silver Eliminator? Would love to see how the decals look on it. My 91 is silver too.

Whatever you use to cut the bushing shafts, dip them in cold water while in progress to prevent the rubber from cooking. :cheers: Jeesh Pete, even your hammer handle has rust. :D

Crap! Have to learn to read (and retain) better. :oops: I know you have tried a new ECU. Look at the connector pins closely for recessing.

Why do you say that Jim? :D Thanks mate, I'll check it out although it looks like a refurbished wheel, not NOS. But I do need a spare. :D

Had the same problem a couple of weeks ago when my 91 stumbled and died about 1/4 mile from the house. It would crank and crank but not start. Got it home with a neighbor's help. After going through basically the same things you have already done, I stuck another coil on and it started right up. The old coil resistance readings checked out okay on the primary and secondary, I had spark at the plugs, and I had no fault codes. WTF? Plugged in the old coil in again, it still would not run. I still do not know what's wrong with the old coil and it checks out good as far as I can check it. So, try swapping a new coil in. Can't hurt.

Obviously.

May be interesting, but has nada to do with MSD ignition systems or in the MJ Tech forum. Start Paypal yea or nay discussions in the Pub if you must, or better yet, not at all. :cheers:

Yep, that's Lee Hurley's (HESCO) favorite uttering. How true.......

Good luck on that. :D I've no idea of the cost, but do know the Atlas II's TCs ain't cheap. I was considering the Hesco alloy head and tried to talk Kyung into taking his next vacation driving his XJ to 'Bama so he could dyno his stroker at Hesco. He also had the Unichip on it. Kyung talked me into the Unichip (well worth the $$) but for shelling out $2k for the alloy head I needed to see the numbers. He's a very knowledgeable stroker guy.

Do you have a goal/purpose in mind, or you just adding new wheels/tires at random?

Thanks Johnny. Another youngen. :clapping: Say Hey from Don in Bama next time you see him.

Actually that's the drag link end attached to the Pitman arm. Entirely different animal than a tie rod end. :cheers: