HOrnbrod

The AX15 tranny uses a different crossmember than the Peugot, part number 52003929. Best bet for these is the yard from an 89 and up XJ/MJ w. the AX15. The AX15 rear transmission support bracket is p/n 52003927. It also requires a spacer, p/n 52003939. If you can't find these parts online, shoot me a PM.

Thanks for the pics Jim, the Champion radiator looks similar to my FFD. I thought the radiator line fittings were AN also, and was going to use an AN adapter to plumb it, but I couldn't start the AN flare nut on the radiator as the threads were different. Weird. So I had to do the cut and splice trick only on the upper line, the bottom line snapped on correctly. I couldn't get a pic of it, but I do have about 3/8" clearance between the lower line elbow fitting and the sheet metal so I think that's enough. Hope so anyhow. :cheers:

They do.

That's odd. The only time my stock aux fan runs is when I'm using the A/C of course, or it comes on by itself when stuck in heavy traffic on 90*+ days. Maybe 3-4 times all summer did this happen. The rest of the time the SPAL controlled fan keeps me right at 210* on the gauge. The only thing I can think of, providing the fan shrouds are nice and tight/close to the radiator, or your radiator itself, is that your electrical system is loaded down which does cause higher engine temps. I upgraded to the Dodge 136A alt and heavier mains cables because of the additional fan, H4 headlamps, power accessories, and other electrical stuff I've done. Still have the original catalytic converter on? Just saw Eagles post on the newer fan 40A fuse. I fuse both my fans (both 1998+ 10-blade fans) w. 20A fuses for each and have never popped a fuse. For years now. EDIT: Just went and checked because it's been so long. Both my 10-blade fans are fused at 25A, not 20A.

I wouldn't call it irreversible; it's just a few 1/4" holes in the roof. :D Just fill them in and repaint the roof. But I wouldn't install one that wasn't in good shape. If you do, use some neoprene washers between the visor and cab roof; it'll never leak.

That's how they are suppossed to work; ON when you open the door. Check to see if your headlight switch is rotated all the way ccw or cw into the stops. This turns on the interior lights w. the headlamps on.

I'm retired. I don't watch the dayem sun come up anymore. I like to watch it set though, while sitting on the beach sucking a High Life. :cheers:

You replaced your original five square blade aux fan with the newer 10-blade fan and started blowing the 20A fuse? I know of several people who have done this (including myself years ago) and never blew the fuse. If this is the case, your "new" fan motor is drawing too many amps. Or are you talking about your second electric fan? :hmm:

I had that same problem on the lower coolant line with the aluminum FFD radiator I put in, but was able to bend the flare nut elbow adapter a little tighter with my tubing bender till it cleared. Also, the welded-on male flare fitting for the upper coolant hose was one size smaller than the flare nut on the coolant line, so I had to rework that too. Did the Champion radiator have this problem also Jim? You would think they could get these things right before they manufactured them.........

A "normal" shut off valve? :huh???: The reason the cab got hot after your valve bypass ASSuming you did it correctly is because your HVAC door controls are not working, due to bad vacuum lines, bad vacuum/elec switches in the HVAC dash panel, rotted out HVAC door gaskets, or a a combo of all the above. Have to know though: what did you buy as "normal" shut off valve?

Ordered from them many times - no problems. But for NOS stuff. They have a good rep AFAIK. OMIX is "offshore", but the major supplier of original Jeep parts now, as well as Crown. If it seems too cheap, order from someone else with higher prices for the same item.

Sure will. That's plenty to play with. :cheers:

Anyone have a larger .jpg like the below they can send me to screw around with two-tone paint schemes? Preferraby a LWB? Gracias. :cheers:

Not necessary to do anything, but in your case it's a simple matter to remove one of the thin shims (.95mm) behind each LCAs to get your caster spot on @ 7*. In my case after a 3" lift I had to insert one thick (4mm) shim behind the LCAs to get the caster back to 7*. Are you measuring caster with an angle finder on the ball joint flat?

Epic September collapses by both the Red Sox and the Braves coupled with ridiculous clutch games won by the Rays and the Cardinals respectively killed the the Sox and Brave wildcard hopes. :fs1: At least the Giants started collapsing earlier in the year so it wasn't quite as noticeable. I still can't get over this.................

x2 :yes: Yep. That would be alright too. I remember the last time they won was in 1984 and good old Sparky Anderson was the manager. :cheers:

See if he can machine a custom ROLL TIDE! front license plate out of aluminum. If he can, I'll take one too. :cheers:

Within minutes tonight, both my teams, the Atlanta Braves ( since I'm close by) lost their wildcard playoff hopes to the Cards, then my beloved Red Sox lost to the freaking Oriels allowing the TB Rays losing 7-0 come from behind win over the NY Yanks to take the AL wildcard. Both my teams had record breaking September collapses. How do you spell CHOKE? :fs1: Guess I'll have to be a Rays or Yankee fan now for the playoffs now, but really don't have a dog in the big game fight anymore. Unbelievable..............

Looks like you're reading 20.5K ohms which really tells you nothing. You could be reading through a diode, through the ECU, who knows? Reverse the probes on your ohm meter and see if you get the same resistance reading. If the same, the next logical step would be to try to isolate the resistance to a particular circuit by pulling the fuses one by one and see if resistance increases to infinity. Then you'll know at least where to look and determine if the resistance is correct IF you have the FSM wiring diagrams.

How did you test and determine you had no injector pulse while cranking? Noid Light? Have you checked your fuel pressure with a gauge yet?

And another. It's under the white plastic housing.

The booster I used was a 1995 NOS anti lock booster (the anti and non-anti lock boosters are the same) and the spacer plate was included.

Like I said I got 2-1/2" lift from new MT springs, but they were not from Hell Creek. I'd email Tom @ Hellcreek first and ask how much lift you can expect from his MT springs.

You asked for opinions, here's mine. Do you have a clue about how much material you have to grind off the WJ arms to clear the brackets? About 1/4" on the rear lip. Nothing is weakened, and it's not a "story". The WJ control arms, even with that bit of grinding, are far stronger than the originals due to the enclosed tubes and much beefier bushings. No integrity is compromised by the grinding. While I do admire your initiative spending all this time and effort in am attempt to fab new and improved LCAs and then retaining the rotten bushings I fail to see any logic in this LCA mod, both for safety and economical reasons. It's cheaper and more importantly safer to use the WJ LCAs. Advise you to keep your rig off-road only if you plan on using your mod.

Suggest investing in an FSM for your year MJ. It'll pay for itself in six months.