HOrnbrod

Here's how I wired mine. LEDs in the tail lamps, 3rd brake light, and electronic flasher.

Veeeeeery excellent mate! That front end sure looks nice. One suggestion: Since you have the chrome door handles and mirror, it's just crying out for a chrome grill. That would top it off nicely. Chrome and black...... :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

Assume you are referring to the 91 MJ? Have you checked if it's throwing a code using the key sequence? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29857

The correct incandescent bulb for that underhood lamp is a #90. Or you can use the LED equivalent. I put a switch in mine, used an inline rotating switch that's used on AC zip cords. Like those used on a small desk lamp cord.

The "D35" or "D35C" should be stamped on the axle at the Model Casting Number location on the diagram. If you can see the Bill of Materials (BOM) number on the right axle tube, I can get the axle specs IF no one has done any modifications to the diff inside. A Dana BOM number format will always be six digits followed by a hyphen and then one more digit, no letters involved. xxxxxx-x Most of the time it's tough to see the whole BOM number though.

That's a refreshing comment. :D You can negate the lift 1/2" or so by using the shorter XJ shackles. Then you'll have a nice looking rake. :cheers:

I didn't get mine from Hell Creek, but only because I didn't know about Tom's shop then. Be prepared for about a 2" or more lift in the rear from the MT springs. That's what I got on my LWB.

Rob, Dana definitely recommends to NOT reuse the crush sleeve. That being said, some oldtimers say that by counting the turns carefully when removing the pinion nut and reinstalling the same, all will be fine. It's a gamble. As far as the OP, he doesn't even know his gear ratio or if he has a c-clip axle or not. 1990 was the first year for the c-clip axle in for XJ/MJ and you know how first year equipment changes go. In order for the OP to be sure pull the damn cover and look at it then you'll know what what you have. I guess that's a run-around, eh? OP, just do whatever you want mate.

In that case, I'd just watch the fluid level and top off as necessary until it breaks. Then dump the D35 for a better axle. :cheers: Look on the axle tubes for the D35C. The c-clip axles will have this. But the best way is to pull the cover off and look inside. You can see the C-clips on the ends of the axle shafts. Also you can check the gear ratio while you're in there by the ring/pinion gear stampings, or count the teeth on each gear. Dividing the ring gear teeth number by the pinion gear teeth number = the gear ratio.

You never mention what year your D35 is. If it's a non c-clip axle (1989 and below) the diff uses shims to set preload. So no worries changing out the pinion seal as long as you re-torque the pinion shaft nut back to correct specs. It's probably leaking because the seal has worn a groove in the pinion yoke shaft over time. Sometimes just sanding the shaft smooth and replacing the seal only will cure it, sometimes not. I just replaced the pinion yoke shaft on my D44 with a stronger u-bolt unit along with a new seal and nut. Not a bad job at all. If your D35 comes from a 1990 and up axle it's a c-clip axle. These use a crush sleeve to set preload, so you need to replace that too. These can get hairy to set the preload correctly if you don't know what you are doing.

This is good training for you youngster. If you don't get a degree and get a decent job with a future the rest of your life will probably be as it is now or worse. Unless you have older rich relatives. :D Suck it up and do your best now; if you do it'll all change later for the better.

Yes, but on the ones I've seen the cluster isn't a full six gauge cluster in the 91+ Police Package XJs. It has no tach (has the big gas gauge instead) and the 120 MPH speedo. And very hard to find. Image Not Found

And after you've done all that, check for a clogged cat converter. If you still have one and it's the original, it's most likely clogged.

Excellent find! Especially since it's an HO. You'll be very happy for that later down the road. Reminds me of mine when I bought it umpteen years ago. :cheers: A full gauge cluster from a 91-96 will work fine, but you will not find one with the integrated auto tranny shift indicator. There are several workarounds for this; either use an after market column indicator or modify your cluster to accept the shift indicator parts. This is fairly easy to do in the Renix models, but more difficult in the 6-gauge HO clusters since there are no mounting bosses for the shift indicator. Lots of write-ups in the forum for doing this.

Yep, ain't it fun? Just when you think you're 'bout done and everything's "right" to your specs, something jumps up and bites you in the arse. But in this case you caused the bite mate. Don't be hard on yourself, we have all done something stupid on our rigs a time or two causing temporary pain to the rig and even more pain to yourself. Just learn from it and move on. :cheers: Time to go electric. Get your new regulators below. Quality built in Italy; better, cheaper, and faster than the crapola originals. In this case aftermarket is mucho better than OEM. Doesn't happen often. http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=JE01-K

There are differences between the 91 and 92 harnesses. Nothing that can't be overcome though, like the firewall grommet and some different in certain connectors. Which year are you specifically looking for?

This is a long overdue selection for MJOTM Rich. You have built a great long bed truck and I've "borrowed" some of your ideas on my own rig as you know. You are one of the top CC members and are always ready to share your knowledge and expertise with anyone who asks, including myself. We are all very fortunate to have you as an outstanding CC member. :cheers:

Check timing with a timing light on #1 plug wire and look at the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and timing cover. The marks should line up at around 10*-14* advanced @ 2000 RPM or so. They should also be steady and not jumping around. You can't adjust it, but this will tell you if the distributor is installed correctly and the shaft gear teeth are okay.

Call here: Brad Nos Parts Westcolumbia Chrysler WEST COLUMBIA, SC 29171 803-755-0066

I like this one:

After I posted the cross reference list, I did look all of them up. Couldn't find any of them. :( Weird...............

These are all aftermarket direct replacements for the Renix MAT sensor, CHRYSLER 33002382 AIRTEX 5S1004 AUTO-TUNE PT9599 BIG A 53-1009 BORG WARNER WT5502 CHRYSLER 33002382 ECHLIN TS5016 FILKO CS-62 GP/SORENSEN 779-19015 KEM 139-411 NAPA TS5016 NIEHOFF TS81351 NIEHOFF WA629EL STANDARD/HYGRADE AX9 TOMCO 12120 WELLS SU330

I'm thinking about new carpet too if I can't get the ole one cleaned well. Motion, what do you mean by taking your time when installing? I mean, if they're not molded correctly or the cut is NQR, they still won't fit right, right?

^ Double hell no. ^

:yes: But not at all. I miss Ronnie.