HOrnbrod

The wiring is already there from a connector behind the dash to to the 10-pin connector on the front engine compartment bulkhead. You can use this existing wiring from a dash fog lamp switch to trigger a fog lamp relay mounted out on the left front bulkhead. This is how the factory did it. There also may or may not be the fog lamp wiring harness up front too if your truck came with factory lamps. If not, you'll have to wire that in from the relay to the fog lights.

Yes, they make a ubolt conversion kit for the AMC20 diff. It includes the yoke, ubolts and a new pinion nut and seal. Part number AMC20-YOKE-UBK. Looks like it's only about $37. If your pinion seal is leaking (probably will be when you get it in :D ), might as well slap this kit in. That's why I put one in the D44. Makes life easier down the road.

Here's how to do it Peter:

Next time you're into the rear diff, junk the stock pinion yoke and replace it with a Dana Spicer ubolt pinion yoke, P/N D/S2-4-8091x. About $35, fits D35s and D44s, and uses the same 1310 series ujoints. Much beefier and it's so much easier to remove the ubolts compared to the puny OEM straps.

Very nice Brett. Good procedure. :cheers:

You are correct, it was added by a PO for something. There never was a factory option for an overhead console for the MJ, all years.

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

That black bear was either: 1. Severely starving, 1. Rabid and crazy, or 1. Young and stupid. And I don't think any young black bear would be stupid enough to attack a herd of cows. I could see a certain Cocker Spaniel I know doing it though. :shake:

The Precision 369 is the correct 1310-series u-joint for your rig. Unless it's been modified, which I doubt. :cheers:

Gus is an ill-mannered obnoxious little Cocker with an attitude. He eats 3-4 times his own body weight daily and never gets fat because he's out back chasing the trespassing critters all day. But he's my best buddy and always will be. :D

Natural dog behavior. Sweet, cute, best buddy all disappear when unguarded human food is within reach. I remember one Thanksgiving when the turkey was cooling down on the table, and Kelly, the Norwegian Elkhound grabbed it and trotted outside with it through an open door with the wifey screaming and chasing after her in the backyard. LMAO. Canned ham Thanksgiving that year. :D

Nope, the OEM stuff was not stainless nor powder coated. Just thin wall rolled steel 3" tubing and painted. Would have been nice if it were stainless then maybe there would be more available in good shape.

I think the biggest alternator available on the HOs was the HD 90A; most were 65A-75A. But since you have a 92, the Dodge/ZJ 136A NipponDenso alt below is a cheap and easy bolt-in swap. I did this swap awhile ago and it bolted right in w. no case grinding. Also upgraded my mains cables. It handles both fans, H4 Hella head lamps, A/C on, and full blower no problems. A good upgrade to do on the HOs.

For me, if I were to install a roll bar, it would have to be original. Lots of the aftermarket stuff will fit the MJ beds (sort of), but the original ones in good shape are rare, especially for the LWB trucks. I sold a NOS one a few years back for $375; I think today to the right person it might go for $500.

Here's another pic - LWB specific. Unfortunately I don't have the rest. Image Not Found

I know. :( Dayem Jim, if I knew that were you I would have kept backing up. :rotfl2:

Naw, it was the same bumper steel faceplate. One goes to the chrome shop, the other to the paint shop. I backed into a post last week. The post was only three feet tall and I didn't see it. :fs1: Put a nice little crease in mine. Was not happy about it. So I'm looking hard for one too, and may just have mine repaired and rechromed. There are plenty of NOS chrome front bumpers around, it's the OEM rear step chrome bumper that's gone now. There's got to be one somewhere............

Are you looking for an OEM chrome rear step bumper or aftermarket like the Fey? NOS MJ chrome rear bumpers are just about unobtainium now. I'd like to find one myself. The window trim is actually polished stainless under the black paint. The paint can be removed by cautious use of a mild paint remover, just tape it off first.

Luckily I just checked in and saw the Aug 2011 MJOTM honoree. Rob did a stellar selection this month not for the vehicle, which is great, but for the man, the founder, who runs the CC. Have been here awhile starting with the old Yahoo forum, and Pete remains Pete; level headed, solid with zero rust (except for his rigs :D), and the anchor who built this forum from humble beginnings throughout the years to the best damn JeeP forum IMHO of them all. Don't ever change Pete, continue to keep all of us in line, and say HEY to Carly. :cheers:

Startup on the 10-blade fans can jump up to 18A. 14A-15A is the norm. They run with a 6A-8A draw. I'm used 12AWG wiring and fuse both my fans at 20A/ea. No problems ever. :cheers:

Yep, see the 43 now. :yes: Back in Richard's day, NASCAR seemed much more exciting than today. I loved the Mopars, but my all time favorite driver was the Silver Fox, Dave Pearson. Seemed like in every race Petty, Pearson, and/or the Allison brothers were slam-banging each other on the last lap for the win.

Yes, but he still "found one", sort of. Found a rebuilder. :yes: I didn't even know harmonic balancers could be rebuilt. Never had to do it. Good to know.

Glad you found one. I had no idea those things were so rare. Unique animal..............

:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: Just needs a "43" decal on the doors. :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

No sheite. Was merely responding to this: Go for it when you get back w. the BFH. Or whatever. Would be helpful to know your results. :cheers: