HOrnbrod

This is true for the HOs, but I'm not sure if it applies to Renix models also. :dunno: And the OP doesn't say what model he has.

Realize it looks good to you guys but it would not look that rusty if it hadn't seen salt water. The insides of the wheels are rusty too. Did you run a VIN check on it? Probably from Daytona and been run on the beach. I'd go take a look but it's over 2-1/2 hours from me and I don't know crap about diesels anyhow. :dunno:

Gracias amigo. Wish I knew about this when Sparks was selling it.

Nice looking asses Jim. :thumbsup:

Yep, I remember it Remi. Would be nice to see the carnage if possible. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=25958&p=269487&hilit=street+comanche#p269487

I think he means the IAT (Intake Air Temperpature) sensor. The stock location for this is on the intake manifold, not the airbox, although it is a popular performance mod.

Ah, okay. :cheers:

Got the radiator here: http://ffdynamics.com/products/cherokee3 minus the fans, about $200 shipped. It's doing great; much less fan time needed I think due to the better heat transfer of the aluminum side tanks. :cheers:

Explorers among others.

Yeah Joe, I agree with Limey above. Grant steering wheels used to be of good quality, but have deteriorated to just more offshore junk now. I prefer to keep the stock Jeep leather 3-spoke steering wheel look, gray in your case would be best, be it an OEM Jeep wheel or like the NOS Buick wheel I just put on mine. MJs just don't look right with aftermarket faux wood grain wheels IMHO. If you can't find find one you like, I'd get your existing wheel refurbished in gray leather. Would look great on your truck. :cheers:

:thumbsup:

oetickres? :hmm:

Florida truck. From that underneath shot it looks like it's been driven quite a bit in salt water Rob.

AAARG. Wish I had known that...........

If you're going to blast the good folks who gave you excellent advice, at least you could spell your major bolded, underlined, and italicized emphasis word alterior correctly. ASSume you mean alternative? Just saying.

All that information is on http://www.tirerack.com. Pick out the tires you want to compare and then look at the specs.

With the little info you provided (it has low miles if true), but no location or pics, I'd say anywhere from $200 to $800. Maybe more if pristine. Just set a price you think is fair based on what you think it's worth and the $$ you have into it. Since we can't see the vehicle, you know better than us. :dunno:

The original column shift indicator is made up of five separate parts; bezel, indicator pointer, cover, light bracket, and mounting screws. All are long ago obsolete.

Some of the 86 MJs had the indicator on the column too. There's a NOS one on Ebay HERE but I don't want to pay $175 for it. :eek: I did mine like this:

Decided to replace the old radiator with the new FFD radiator I picked up. The old radiator worked fine, but had the plastic side tanks and wanted a quality all-metal rad for better heat transfer. Here's the new radiator I got; a solid dual core all metal that I've read good things about. Since welding a new aluminum tab was impossible due to the core being too close to the bottom support bracket, I had to modify it. I fabbed a new support brace out of 1/2" angle aluminum across the bottom and used the Dremel to cut two new slots out for the second fan mounting tabs as below: It all fits in there well as the old rad did with plenty of clearance from the mechanical fan pulley even though this radiator is about 1/4" thicker. Haven't had time yet to completely evaluate it long term yet, but I did go for a 20 mile drive in traffic in the 90* heat and it cooled better than the old system with only one fan running at low speed.

Sand Mountain eh? I know where that is. :thumbsup:

Key phrase: "it has ruffly about 170,000 miles i think its been awhile sents i looked". Ask him to look.

Did you torque everything down while the rear end was lifted? the proper procedure when changing rear leaf packs, or anything else in the suspension, is to get the bolts just snug, lower it to the floor, jump up and down on the bumper or even drive it around the block, then torque to specs whatever you loosened.

91s don't have the yellow box or a wire to the brake switch; that's a Renix thing. Read the thread below. Any cruise system from 91-96 will work. I put it in my 91 in about 30 minutes using yard parts from a 96 XJ. Most common point of failure is the column stalk switch, which sounds like your problem. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12612&p=126489&hilit=cruise+control#p126489

Probably your calipers have the phenolic (read plastic) pistons that are more prone to seizing in their bore than the metal ones. I've rebuilt calipers where the piston crumbled when you tried to remove it. If you can find them, recommend you get the calipers with metal pistons, a bit more expensive but it's worth it to me. Or rebuild 'em yourself with a kit that has metal pistons.