HOrnbrod

:rotfl2: :rotfl2:

Yeah Sam, understand. As a kid seeing my two old grandpas slugging it out over a long over war was scary, but they never really hurt each other. They still took it very seriously until the end. The only thing they had in common was Seagram's 7, and all was well after after both had ingested enough. :cheers:

That depends where your grandpa was from. My paternal grandpa was a Brit, and I know where he and his mates bombed. He never let us forget. My maternal grandpa was Swedish. Sweden was a neutral country in WWII. At least once a year at a family gathering, the Brit grandpa would my accuse my Swede grandpa that the Swedes manufactured ball bearings for Hitler, and the fisticuffs would begin. Ah, memories from childhood.

Oh, it here alright. But you have to really look for it. Up North it looks for you. :yes:

Got her all back together with no more leaks, runs, or errors. Replaced the tranny coolant lines and all associated connectors. Retained both the radiator oil cooler and the aux cooler. Then cleaned up the mess underneath and in the engine bay. Looks like new now. :D BTW, I highly recommend douching down the steering and suspension components using this method. When the quick connector parted, ATF spraying all around under there soaked into every nook and cranny and lubricated everything so well I have no more front end squeaks or noises. Also got a partial ATF fluid change at the same time. Win-win! :cheers:

Mopar makes vinyl spray to match any interior color, and they all have specific part numbers. I had to use some red plastic interior pieces and used the Mopar vinyl paint to match my gray interior, and it looks original. This was years ago and these pieces still perfectly match the original gray and look good.

Plenty on Ebay, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Right-Front-Door-Panel-Gray-/140592120418?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACherokee&hash=item20bbf18262

I agree with all of this post except this: I've gone through three HO radiators; one alum w. plastic side tanks, one alum w. aluminum side tanks, and one alum w. a thicker core. All three I still have, all are fine, and all three have the bung for the Renix temp sensor. I don't know why everyone says "most" HO radiators don't have the bung. I've never seen one that did not have it. :dunno:

Yep, that Sam sure is a tricky bastid. :D

:thumbsup:

He must love the smell of gas fumes while driving. :roll:

I'm all for "da hood". :clapping:

Don't listen to him. Rob has very poor taste. :yes:

Very sorry to hear this Pat. I've done a few PMs in the past with him and he was a sharp knowledgeable guy who never complained. RIP mate.

Have you bypassed the radiator cooler?

Dealer still has them, p/n 4638260.

I don't like them either - just another point of failure waiting to happen. Wait - it DID happen. :( I'm just concerned if the smallish factory cooler will be enough by itself to keep the tranny cool. Sure, I could add a bigger cooler, but then you block air flow thru the radiator even more. Guess I'll have to put a temp gauge on it to see.......

:popcorn:

Sent.

That's a joke. Right? Dated? You see how all the new truck grilles look now? Chrome is back, and is still the King! I'm only kidding. I love your truck and what you have done. Love chrome too. :cheers:

I do, but for the windows only. :D

:thumbsup:

? :hmm:

Today while cruising around town, the AW4 tranny coolant line quick-connector popped off the lower radiator port and before I could get it off the road into a parking lot I had dumped four quarts of transmission fluid. What a freaking mess! The AW4 coolant return line is plumbed through the stock factory cooler (like below) then through the built-in radiator tranny cooler. To eliminate two of these pesky quick-connectors I want to disconnect the radiator tranny cooler altogether and just use the stock aux cooler mounted out front of the A/C condenser for cooling the transmission by itself. My questions to those who have done this (if anyone) are: 1. Will the OEM stock tranny cooler like below be enough to keep the AW4 cool by itself? and 2. Do I need to cap off the built-in radiator transmission cooler ports after they are bypassed? Don't think so but I want to be sure. and 3. Will eliminating the hot transmission fluid flow through the radiator do anything to lower engine temps? I live in a fairly warm climate (N. Alabama) where the temps rarely get below freezing. I'm thinking I don't need the radiator tranny cooler, si?

That's correct - I didn't have the factory cross body harness harness. But I wanted power windows only, no locks, and it only required three wires cross body, one hot and two up/down switched grounds. Power locks would require three more. I used 12AWG power cord. Worked fine. :cheers: