HOrnbrod

I had the same line disconnect recently on a new radiator install. The QD wasn't pushed on all the way. The only way I could get the connector to snap in was to rub 0000 steel wool round and round to take some metal of the new male aluminum tubing, and shine it up real well. Even then it was a bear to push all the way on, but it finally snapped on. I did mic the diameter of the old steel line and the new aluminum line and the aluminum line was about .004 larger in diameter.

Yep, gotta love it. Did you see all those poor saps crying in the Bronx? :clapping: I'm liking the Tigers for the AL champs now. They should handle the Rangers with their superior pitching. So long as Nolan doesn't come out of retirement and suit up. :D

Tried unsuccessfully to sweet talk Kyung into separating the alloy head from his stroker motor and ship it back to Bama where it belongs, but it didn't work. :D I did manage to get some of his peripherals though when he dismantled the XJ. :cheers: Hope he got the dedicated RC going.

Thanks for that info Cracker. I think he had the alloy head on his motor also. Good guy. :cheers:

Remi, the ad states "Head was port matched and polished exhaust. combustion chambers were enlarged to reduce compression and to facilitate polishing." The motor is a long block, does not include the manifolds. So 1st thing you'll need to know is ported to which manifolds, Renix or HO. 50K miles. Not outrageous, but you'd need to know who the builder was, i.e. the seller, Titan, Hesco, etc.? The only stroker I'd trust @ 50K miles is a Hesco. What was it used for: full time crawler, driver, or in between? Ask if the seller's name (or previous owner) is Kyung. Seriously. He was selling his Hesco stroker awhile back in the same Cali AO. If it was his engine, it's good deal. It was a $4K+ crate special engine.

Bushings only usually.

Yeah, had a few Volvo 544's 4-speed manuals back in the day with that same M41 solenoid-controlled overdrive unit. It was sweet. :cheers:

Also, between the gear box and frame there's an aluminum spacer. They tend to disintegrate over time in corrosion maximus areas such as yours. :( This could explain why the box mounting bolts are loose. Check it out, along with the uniframe bolt areas as Paradise mentioned.

You need p/n 83502745, Quick-Connect Repair Kit, 5/16". Get them at the dealership, or online from many places. Just do a search for the part number.

Sometimes the pins in the 64-pin ECU connector get corroded and/or recessed. Especially on the 91s. Before replacing the ECU, disconnect and inspect for recessed pins, and douche the connector's pins down with a good electrical contact cleaner. I do this about once a year and it seems to help each time. BTW, how much did the new ECU set you back? :eek:

^^^ :agree: Also check the steering gear box for excess play; it's a common problem. Eagle posted the correct adjustment procedure here at the bottom of the page: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32106&p=319146&hilit=steering+adjustment#p319146

Yes. 92 and up links are about 1" longer than the earlier links and work fine for all MJs.

You have any lift? If not just get the stock end links for a 1992 and up XJ at Autozone or another chain. They work just fine.

Hey Jim - who took the extreeeeem closeups? I'm guessing here: Juliet? The Appy? She's smart enough I'm sure. :cheers: Time for a hood strut mate.

Looks great to me. It will be safe and warm over the sure-to-be crappy Boston winter. Off topic: Speaking of crappy, how 'bout the September Sox el-foldo. Reminds me of the not-so-great teams of the past. Management I think will regret losing Tito, especially when he starts kicking their butts next year as the manager of the "other" Sox in Chicago.......

I got mine on Ebay, p/n 4761788, Booster Package w. ABS, and it was a NOS in-the-box Mopar unit. Came with the spacer. :cheers:

^^ :agree: Getting an AMC employee appreciation coin from your Grandpa is much more meaningful than picking up MJ stuff on Ebay. :cheers:

Don't know about the GForce chip, but the UniChip sure works well. :D http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=unichip

Sure would like to see Joe's low rider finished up just as in the rendering. It would be a very cool MJ. :cheers:

-D o n __oooo_ _____ l_,\_____\,__ l-------l---l--[□]lllllll[□] -(o)_)----(o)_)--o--)_) 1991 Comanche LWB, AW4, Hesco 4.6L stroker, 4.10 D44 Trac-Loc, 3" lift Power everything, Explorer rear disks, *CHROME* freak. ROLL TIDE!

You are gone way too soon Joe. We'll miss you here mate.

Smear some anti-seize on the studs and save yourself some grief next time. :cheers:

Most stereo radios have pots for the final amplifier stage left and right gain vs. distortion adj., a balance pot, and a trimmer capacitor for the antenna. The trimmer capacitor is usually white. As far as the stock Jeep unit goes, I don't have one anymore to look. :dunno:

Where do you live?

If quality is the prime factor, Wet Okole seat covers are the way to go. :cheers: