HOrnbrod

What makes you think it's bad? Have you tested it with an ohmmeter?

Lift the cover and look in your PDC and see if the COOLING FAN relay is present. Looking down at it from the right side it's the relay in the upper left corner.

I had to dig for this as I was not aware there was an aux fan diode. It's a Renix-only thing and not present on the HOs since the ECU controls the aux fan switching. The diode's purpose is to prevent 12V backfeed into the aux fan relay when the the AC compressor comes on. The part number for the diode module is: 56001965, DIODE, Module, w/ Anti-Lock Brakes (Also Rad. Fan Diode). Looks like an obsolete dealer-only part. Schematic:

To drain the oil pan you can pickup a drill pump and pump out the oil via the dipstick tube. I've had one of the Jabsco pumps below for years and use it to pump out tranny fluid, diff oil, aquariums, heat pump condensate pans, plumbing disasters; just about anything. Very handy to have.

Factory is M12x1.75 x 40. Should be the same with the Crown strips.

Very true. Do it right. :thumbsup:

Your docket has been pretty full lately. Hope you get it all sorted out.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/72016_8101.htm Left side:

Is your truck running now?

Ah, okay, understand. So you just need a new Saginaw column shift lever? There are plenty of aftermarket shift lever kits on Ebay.

You can't go wrong with Ravines and BFG Radial T/A's on a longbed. :thumbsup:

Aftermarket HERE.

Or you can always do this:

This may give you some more ideas:

This is only a test.....................

The aux fan on the HOs comes on when the coolant temp reaches ~230 degrees. This is normal. ASSume it's the same for the Renix.

It does look good, except for the 20" plus wheels. :ack: They just don't look right to me on a retro body like the Challenger.

If you are bench testing a fan motor (simply applying 12VDC at the motor connector w/o any control circuitry attached), polarity doesn't matter. If the motor is good, it will just run in the opposite direction if polarity is reversed.

Sir who? :yes: He must have moved on to bigger and better things - hasn't been here for awhile. It's tough to research and pick up every variance in Jeep factory wheels. This chart was for general guidance in MJ wheel selection throughout the majority of the various Jeep models - it was not meant to include every possible wheel exception. If someone wants to do this, I'll PM the existing MSWord table to them and they can have at it. I'd appreciate it.

Probably a blown diaphragm in your booster. Use a piece of heater hose and listen at the booster while a helper is working the brakes with the engine running to localize the hissing. Also pull the check valve at the booster vac hose connection and suck and blow to see if it works.

I think you are right. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: But I thought you were going to use u-bolts on the pinion yoke?

Won't make any changes to the chart w/o some proof. "Pretty sure" or "I think" don't work. If you PM me some kind of proof, I'll happily make the changes. :thumbsup:

$75 and change each.

I'll be sticking with R12. Just picked up a six year supply for $50. Since the system has been hanging tough now for 23 years, there are too many variables and expenses to convert.