HOrnbrod

Check again to make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. Also new CPS's can be bad right out of the box. Stick your old one back on and see if the symptoms change.

I had to replace a couple of axles on my old D35 that snapped. SOP was to slide the seal plate, seal, bearing, then bearing retainer onto the new axle in the right order. Since I don't have a shop press I'd bring the assembly to a local shop with an axle press and pay a few $$ for them to press the new bearing and retainer ring home. Did you get the bearing and retainer ring pressed on at a shop or do it yourself? Sounds like they are not fully seated..........

Non c-clip D35's didn't use a spacer behind the seal retainer plate, so something must be wrong. Are you sure you purchased the correct bearings and seals? Is the retaining ring pressed on all the way?

Thar's the key-in-ignition chime. It activates the chime module if the key is in (obviously) when you open the door. W/o the link activated by the ignition switch, it won't do anything. And keep the chime (buzzer) module. It's saved my bacon a few times when I left the headlamps on.

On this special day, I would like to thank all my fellow veterans past, present, and future who have honorably served, are serving, and will serve our country. May God bless all of you.

Yes.

That's way too tight. I don't know the torque specs for a 4WD but for 2WD the specs are: The correct method for the 2WDs is to tighten the bearing nut to 17-25 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel to seat the new bearings/races. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 19 in-lbs of torque. Someone should chime in w. the 4WD specs but I'll bet your spindle bearings and races are shot now.............

What it is, comedy night? :rotfl2:

Sure does sound like the bolts are bottoming out. Pull one or more and stick an icepick or something in the hole until it bottoms them measure against the bolt. It may be as simple as a couple of washers on the bolt(s).

Not much to see - it's all inside the fender. :yes: Image Not Found If you ever install one find an original Mopar antenna. The aftermarket Crown junk units last about 3-4 months then burn up. Went through three of them before I found a NOS Mopar unit, and it's been there ten years now............

Could have used an XJ power antenna. All that shows is a small grommet. :thumbsup:

Check the ignition switch for proper alignment and/or burnt contacts. THIS thread will help. And yes, a 15A fuse is undersized with all those devices (lights, heater blower, window motors) running at the same time. Try a 25A fuse.

Rear Shocks: One end of the OME 60080 shock is a pin mount, so these will not work for the dual eyelet mounting MJ rear shocks. OME N76 shocks with the OMESB11 bushing conversion kit is a good option for the rears. Front Shocks: Front OME N35L shocks are no longer available. The 60052L Nitrocharger Sport is it's replacement and will be fine for the fronts.

Uh, yeah, that would have been nice..............

Download the 88 FSM here: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=c40904cfda278a46&id=C40904CFDA278A46!115

^^ This. Unless you're a masochist. :yes:

Unplug the inline intermittent wiper module on the steering column harness on both ends, then plug the harness connectors together. Turn on your wipers and check if they now park correctly. If they do, you will need a new intermittent wiper module. They often go bad, common problem.

I have to admit that ever since I installed the 97+ wiper arms and new J-hook blades, I've been getting a lot of wiper chatter, especially when it's raining lightly. I've tried several different sets of new blades, re-bushed the wiper motor arm linkage, using a clay bar to thoroughly clean the windshield - twice, and even Rainex. Nothing stopped the chatter for more than a few minutes. Until............... I tried a set of the new bracketless blades. They are all composite w/o the metal frame, fit the 97+ J-hook arms, and work great! It's been raining down here almost steadily for the past week, and I've been using the wipers a lot lately. Zero chattering in all kinds of weather with no missed spots or streaking. I know this sounds like a commercial, but these blades really do work as advertised. And they only cost about $10/set on Ebay which is considerably cheaper than a set of the metal frame blades. I don't know how long they will last yet, but they will be very affordable to replace. Give them a try.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

Please continue this topic by using PM's.

Mmmmmmm, chrome. And black. Don't get no betta than that. :drool: :drool:

It sounds like you eliminated the headlamp harness and it's relays. Also if the high beams work it's not the headlamp ground, as both the HI and LO beams share the same ground. But which switch did you rule out? The headlamp or dimmer switch? If not the dimmer switch, I'd go there next. It's on the top of steering column down by the firewall near the ignition switch, and since both low beams are affected this switch is a good possibility. Pull it out and inspect the connector, actuation rod, and the switch's operation. This thread will show the dimmer switch and associated peripherals: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/steering-colum-removal-35291/

Way to go Bo. :cheers: Love the dart board placement. Aim high! (and right).

He has a link to a spark plug picture. And it doesn't look that plug is running very lean to me. Who's the mfg. and what is the plug number?

Pictures or videos really won't help. You will either have to find someone who knows automotive wiring and proper troubleshooting procedure to get things right, or learn it yourself. Lots of community adult education centers offer basic electricity courses, as well as local community colleges. If you don't have basic electrical knowledge and know how to logically identify and repair electrical problems you will do more harm than good; I think you realize that. So if you don't have time to get "electrically smart" because you need your rig running now, you'll either have find a competent individual to do the repairs while you watch and learn, or find something else to drive while you are learning to DIY. Don't feel bad because you screwed up; we all have a time or two. Sorting out a simple auto electrical system like our trucks have isn't difficult if you have a basic understanding of how DC circuits work and know how to use a multimeter.