HOrnbrod

Fey / Westin p/n 97900. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fey-97900/overview/

The key word in this thread is deviation. :thumbsup:

And I'm sure all these interstate speed readings were taken on calibrated speedometers. :rotfl2: Huh? What's that?

Wow, that sure is a bargain if they are the same regulators. Did you ask John? If not, please let me know if they are the units made in Italia when you get them. Even if not, it's still a great price. :cheers:

For sealed high-speed bearings, like turbines, relative grease will prevent excess deviation better. But for wheel bearings, your original question, true bearing grease definitely allows "truer" direct rotation. I learned all about the properties of lubricants while in the Navy. Relative bearing grease was only used by those who didn't know any better. Frequency grease can also be used for wheel bearings with good results.

I prefer true bearing grease over relative; it won't wash away over time like the relative crap. I think TSC sells it.

When's the last time you changed the O2 sensor? Also check the MAP sensor vacuum connector on the firewall. Also please edit your signature and add what year, engine, etc. your truck is.

Do you still have the lower stripes?

Why?

I remember them from the Orvis Edition ZJs.

They were 15" x 7".

Huh? The ballast resistor isn't in the fuel pump circuit until after the engine starts. OP, you need to download the electrical manual and start troubleshooting the 12V pump circuit. Download the 88 electrical manual here: http://www.bteventures.com//88%20FSM.zip

The same tired old litany again. And again. And again. :shake: You need to come up with some fresh material. Litany: A tedious recital or repetitivly boring series of meaningless gibberish.

I wish you hadn't............. :yes:

:thumbsup:

Give it up man. Obviously you have been out of touch with Texas football for awhile. No TX team has been relevant for years at any level. Especially Jerry the Senile Cowboy Clown and his band of thugs he loves and protects. It only gets worse at the NCAA level. Baylor is the best you can offer up? :doh: No worries regarding Clemson. Good to hear from you Jay. How's everything mate? :cheers:

It's one of yours. I stole it from your hard drive.

^^ 4 posts up. Read much? I read. Not much on photos though....... Obviously.

It sounds like the ignition switch RUN and START contacts are not engaging. Read this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/ With a "new" harness, unknown history, and no ignition key you probably have a combination of problems.

Check for burnt pins on the connector and make sure the rod is aligned.

There are pinout differences between the HO and Renix TCUs.

Fey / Westin brackets: Image Not Found

^^ 4 posts up. Read much?

Could be the ignition switch on the steering column or it's connector is fried, or is mis-aligned. Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others. Connector also. Ignition switch alignment: Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access.