HOrnbrod

You might want to check the classifieds for sale section. This might work depending on tank size: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49311-misc-items-oconomowoc-wi/

Most all aftermarket headlamp relay harnesses are universal and will work on any vehicle as long as the vehicle's headlamps are not already on factory relays and the 3-pin lamp connector is the same, i.e. replacing stock incandescents with H4's. TJs included.

Pretty sure he uses a FAST fuel injection system in his MJ drag truck, not Renix. Check it out. :thumbsup: If he does, he has changed it. I know Bob personally and I did a bit of work on the truck and the engine while he was building it. It was pure Renix when he first completed it and started racing it. He changed it out and after a bit of a learning curve that's the system he used to set the 1/4 mile record, not Renix. There was an ongoing dialog in the strokers forum from WorldsFastestComanche awhile back about it. He was picking Bob's brain for go-fast engine knowledge when he was gearing up his rig. He also got a lot of help from Hesco's Lee Hurley. WFC learned a lot from both of them.

Just rechecked the #7 and #5, they are for both floor and column shifts. Even the ZJ and AMC Eagle? use the same parts. And both are readily available if needed. Maybe I'll just hammer an indent slot in the booster for the cable to ride in. Think that would hurt it? :yes:

Okay, got it. I'll crawl under tomorrow and see if it's possible. The #5 and #7 are column shift specific and are unobtainium. The cables are still around though. Thanks Adam.

You be referring to the #7 lever, si? I don't see that working as the cable is snapped into the #5 adjustment bracket. The distance at the red line can't change as I see it. That sets the gear detent inside. :hmm:

..........regarding column shift MJs. When I did my 96 booster/master cylinder swap, I had to really pull on the cable for slack where it crosses the booster. The cable originally comes out of the cab at the left corner of the firewall, makes a hard right turn, crosses the booster on top, then goes down to the tranny. It's very tight because of the increased diameter of the brake new booster over the original. When installing the booster I tried to run the cable under the booster, but that was even tighter. It's worked fine so far, but I know it's just a matter of time before something gives because the column shift lever is much harder to move than before with the stock brake booster. Outside of converting to a floor shifter, has anyone got any ideas to free up some slack in this cable? I don't need much. If the cable were only an inch longer or so, everything would be golden. Is there possibly a longer cable I could use? Any way to get some slack at the tranny end? I've never messed with AW4 cables except for adjusting the TV (kick down) cable.

Pretty sure he uses a FAST fuel injection system in his MJ drag truck, not Renix. Check it out. :thumbsup:

^^ Most of that is poppycock. I've had two CEL's in over ten years, and one was self-inflicted. The SYE part I have no idea what you mean. OBD1 is lot simpler and more logical than a Renix system that won't run because one of it's many obsolete sensors is interfering with another because it's ground reading is .5 ohm high or it's output is .2V low. And the primitive junction box it has for "engine management" can't remember what it was doing the last time it passed traffic. :shake: What's probably true in your statement Charlie is that you might be more rugged. :yes:

This is my favorite pump (and best looking), the Wayne Sunoco Blend-O-Matic dispenser. One of my first civilian jobs (early 70's) was with Sun Oil in VA running around the state repairing and calibrating these pumps. They had a blend valve that was positioned by a mechanical computer that allowed precise blending of 190 (low octane) and 260 (high octane) into grades 190-200-230-240-260 all from the same pump. They were maintenance intensive. :yes:

The column shift AW4 cable runs through the left firewall, over the booster then down the firewall to the tranny as below. The floor shift cable runs as Paradise says above. Your Pioneer CA-1176 cable is for the floor shifter. In both cases, lube the cable occasionally. http://comancheclub.com/topic/13447-what-is-the-most-important-tip-youd-share-with-mj-owners/page-10?do=findComment&comment=501338

That's good stuff, but for cables (throttle valve, accelerator, and hood release cables) I use Bike Aid Dri-Slide to lube them. It comes with a needle so you can inject it under the cable sheath until it runs out the other end. You can really notice the difference especially on the hood release cable. :thumbsup:

Is it burned off from a short or just old age? If just rotten, I'd replace it with an aftermarket FL in the appropriate gauge. http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fusible-links If from a short, you need to find the cause. What circuit is it in?

If a Jeep truck happens in 2017 and it's "Cherokee" based or based on another Jeep/Fiat joke platform, I won't even go look at it. If it's JK based with the 3.6 Pentastar engine or better, I'll jump on it. The JK drive train is super reliable now, and many 3.6's are chugging around now with over 200K on them. And I love the styling. The extended cab is not overblown with 4-doors and the bed with tonneau cover proportions it out well. And they should weigh considerably less than a JKU if they use aluminum as promised, ensuring good performance and decent economy. This is what the modern jeep truck should look like IMO, classic styling that screams JEEP! with a modern proven drive train. I see all positives in a rig like this, except for the cost. In spite of that, there will be a waiting list for them before they hit the dealer's lot. I really hope this isn't just more of the usual Jeep marketing blabber.

Man, I hope this one is for real. If it is I'll be getting one and the MJ will most likely go away. I'd love a JK-based pickup. This what I use for my desktop background. :yes:

Download the 88 electrical manual HERE.

The MJ column is a Saginaw steering column, just like the pre-airbag S10 column. Your suspicion that it's an ignition switch problem since you know the history is very plausible. Check the ignition switch connector and harness connector for fried contacts, and align the ignition switch rod are the first things to do.

Adam, check out the OME N190 rear shocks also on the same Amazon "dealies" page. Great buy and they are perfect for the rears of an MJ w. 2"-3" lift.

I checked your link. Since the order is being offered and fulfilled by Amazon themselves, not one of their vendors, I'd buy them. They are very good about returns should you need one, but I don't think you will. They wouldn't sell them if they were physically damaged. Those springs will probably jack you up about 3" or more (for V8 ZJ). I used the older 930's and got almost 3".

I had a new solid drive 3" shaft made several years ago due to the same problem. I brought it to the local shop for balancing, but the guy said it probably wouldn't last as the rubber sheath was deteriorating. So I ordered a new one from Tom Wood and no more vibes.

To the OP: When in doubt look in the DIY forum search index. That's what it's there for. :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/ DIY search index: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/

No, one relay is for low beams; the other for high. You can pick up battery 12VDC for the relays at the battery positive post or the alternator B+ post; same point electrically.

Okay - he made his appearance. Mostly whining about the officiating, but he spoke anyhow. First thing he should have said was congrats to his team for a great season. He's still an @$$.

That makes it even worse. The @$$ got his start at Bama.

What happened to DABO? Can't he come out and for the obligatory loser's interview? Unless he's a no class redneck..........