HOrnbrod

Can you see it now? And yes, was referring to picking up the tire each time.

Those tire carriers that use the hitch are ball breakers every time you want to open your tailgate. I had one like the below on an XJ I had in Guam. Worked well. Could probably be adapted to an MJ pretty easily.

I've done a few of these on both D35 and D44 axles, and every time I had to replace the pinion yoke because of scoring. Since I had to replace them I always used the u-bolt yoke because they are inherently stronger. The D44's have no crush sleeve to worry about, so when buttoning it down (using a new nut) you just re-torque to specs. The D35's do have crush sleeves, but I never used a new one when changing the pinion seal. When taking the nut off you can count the threads (turns) then snug it up to the same point as the old one + a little bit more. None of them ever leaked. Maybe I was lucky, but that's how I did it. I'd run your rig around until the sludge inside gets warm and toasty, then pull the cover and let it drain all night. The next day mop it up as best you can, button it up and fill to the plug hole bottom with some cheap 75w90 gear oil and drive it around for awhile. Don't forget the limited slip additive if your axle requires it. After 200 miles or so, change the diff fluid out again with the quality brand of your choice. Also, make sure your axle vent tube is clear and venting as it should be, or gear oil will be leaking past the pinion seal again shortly.

For a couple of years my oil pressure gauge has been reading high. On startup it pegs the gauge at 80psi, then after it warms up it settles down to 65-70psi. I tried three different aftermarket sensors from various manufacturers, all the "fat bellows" type, and they too all read way high. I did hook up a mechanical gauge temporarily just to verify, and it indicated right at 50psi on a warm idling engine, so I figured my gauge was off and didn't worry about it. I spotted a NOS Mopar sensor last week on Ebay and grabbed it for $19 and stuck it on. Now on startup, a cold engine reads 65-70psi, then settles out at 45-50psi when warmed up, agreeing with the mechanical gauge. Goes to show you can't beat genuine Mopar parts. So if you're having wonky oil pressure readings, try a Mopar sensor first. :thumbsup:

I put the bilstien 5100's that had were capable for the 3" lift. Got a part number? 24-188197 for the 5100 in the front :thumbsup:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52461_102X_PG.htm

Probably. Why don't you give them a call? I'm interested in knowing if it's for real or not.

Yes, I saw that, but they wouldn't lie, would they? :yes: Maybe just a generic pic.

I put the bilstien 5100's that had were capable for the 3" lift. Got a part number?

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-6762820-dana-44-front-xjtj-zj.html DANA 44 FRONT XJ,TJ, ZJ

They are still down. I notice your pics are all gone from the forum, but mine are still up (I use PB too). Did you break it Adam? :yes: https://twitter.com/photobucket?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author

They are down for maintenance at the moment...............

You say you used Bilstien 5100 shocks. Which Bilstien 5100 shocks? Are they longer than the pre-lift shocks? They may be maxing out if there's not enough travel.

Most of the standard vs. reverse rotation water pump mixups are because the wrong pumps are in a mislabeled box. It did happen to me once but I caught it by comparing the two vanes before putting it in. The impeller or housing usually has an "R" stamped on it too indicating reverse rotation, but not always. Not saying that's your problem, just don't dismiss it yet.

Try HERE.

I never knew that about the late model 91 washer bottle. Mine used to be next to the booster also.

We're pretty close. 33-1/2" & 19-1/4" in front, 34-1/4" & 20" in the back. My stuff went on in 04, so it must have settled a little bit. :yes:

Bad ground or relay, open harness, etc. Lot's of things can cause the pump not to run. Ask your "mechanic" if he tried to hot-wire it at the fuel tank connector and see if it runs.

Make sure your AW4 gear shift cable is aligned: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Automatic_Shifter_Adjustments.htm Pin D is ground. Verify by testing it for continuity to a good chassis ground point.

The good: The bad:

The ballast resistor is a wire-wound ceramic dropping resistor and does get very hot when it is in the fuel pump circuit. It sounds like your resistor is failing when hot. You can either replace it (my choice) or get rid of it altogether by disconnecting the end terminals and soldering them together. The resistor is there to reduce fuel pump noise, and your pump will run fine w/o it being in the circuit, just a bit louder. Either way will be fine........

Gorgeous. The 91 is a 50th Jeep anniversary truck. Guess your boss is collecting one of each?

Another "Aw s&$t" is the rotation of the water pump. Did you eyeball the new pump's impeller against the old one to make sure they are the same (reverse rotation)? Some Jeep models use the same pump with standard rotation.

Looks good. :cheers: What's the distance in the front from the ground up through the center of the wheel to the bottom of the flare? Just curious to see if the old OME coils gave the same lift as your new OME coils.

If your engine is stock, you want injectors with specs close to the stock injectors, ~19 lb/hr @ 39psi. Anything higher is a waste. The main reason for "upgrading" fuel injectors is supposedly for better flow / atomization the newer 4-port injectors provide over the stock single port type.