HOrnbrod

Odd, the connectors on the old and new dizzys were the same for me.

Yep, you have a rubber shaft. :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: That don't sound right. A new 3" diameter shaft will only net an additional clearance of ~.5 inch on each side, so judging by your pics, it looks like you need more than that. Unless you can massage the tank somehow........

Option #1. Is that the fat rubber-sheathed 2WD drive shaft? If so, I'd replace it with a new 3" diameter shaft from Tom Wood or some another shop. I had one of those on my 2WD 91, over 60" long on my longbed, and it started vibrating a few years ago due to the rubber sheath material deteriorating. It couldn't be balanced. I replaced it with a new 3" from Tom Wood, and no more vibes. And no twisting even with the stroker either; it's stronger than the stock drive shaft. It's just a matter of time before the rubber goes anyhow Jake.

I have never seen replacement shocks that came with new lower bolts. Have used several brands too. :hmm:

True, but only if Mopar is not a choice. :thumbsup:

I have a NOS set of Mopar upper and lower Mopar ball joints I have not installed yet. But they are actually Dana Spicer products. The p/n below on the plastic bag (701059X) is a Dana Spicer number. That number is also stamped on the ball joint itself. So go with Spicer and save some $$. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Your shoes look like angry little coneheads with hair. :rotfl2:

^^ Yep, you are correct. I never looked at my 91 wiring diagram, just ASSumed the motor and it's associated speed control circuitry was wired the same as the above drawing. It's not. Good catch Gene. :cheers:

All you need is one relay, just like the diagram.

Something else. Factory Image Not Found

Your wire colors won't be the same as the diagram. The blower motor relay should be wired like any load relay, and you will need a wiring diagram specific to your year/model to ID the wires. The relay coil contacts, pins 85 and 86, should be wired in series with an IGNITION SWITCHED source. Then the blower "hot" wire should be cut and wired in series with the relay load contacts, pins 30 and 87. EDIT: Just read Eagle's post. If the relay load contacts are wired in series with the motor hot input wire (Pin A in the diagram), the resistor pack outputs will still be protected by the relay since all they do is insert resistance in the ground path to vary the blower motor speed.

Right on, man! That's awesome. I'll start incorporating that into my conversions now that I've learned that. Of course you will need a 96 and up throttle body that has the mounting bosses for the MAP sensor. I used a bored out 62mm for mine. :thumbsup:

Your truck is a golden girl now Rev. :cheers:

I don't know - never had the steering wheel off an airbag XJ to see if the steering wheel has the option to be rotated or not. :dunno:

in theory, heavy duty springs shouldn't give any lift. they should simply better resist sagging under a load. in reality, brand new springs tend to need a time to settle and old springs tend to be sagging from years of use, so your new heavy duty springs might give an initial lift that lessens a few months later. ^^ This is true, but as Pete says, it's theory. The General Springs 3+2 MT springs gave me an initial 3" lift over what I had, and slightly less according to the FSM height measuring guidance. They did settle down about an inch after a year though, and have remained at that height. You can take your chances with what a lift kit advertises, or piece it out and get the rear height where you want it, then adjust the stance with front coils and spacers as needed after the rear has settled in.

I had a problem like that too, only the threads inside the adjuster collar were butting against each other. The solution for me to center the wheel was to re-clock the horn innards. Used the ZJ drag link too and have about the same distance between the thread ends now. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48200-drag-link-lht-tie-rod-end-question/?hl=steering+wheel

The same MAP sensor is used on the 87-95 models, but none are throttle body mounted. 1996, the first year for the throttle body mounted MAP, was the OBD1 / OBD2 crossover year, but it's MAP sensor was still OBD1 with the OBD1 outputs over the vacuum scale. These outputs changed entirely (reversed polarity and the amplitudes were different) in 1997 for the OBD2 system. So yes, the one-off 1996 MAP sensor is the only year that will mount on the HO throttle body and work for both Renix and OBD1 systems.

Got a mfg. and part number for the dogleg drag link?

Also, do you have an adjustable track bar installed on the XJ?

Radio chassis ground hooked up?

Here you go - the 96 XJ MAP sensor will mount on the HO throttle body and it has the same voltage outputs as the Renix MAP sensor. Polish that Renix turd! :thumbsup:

Bilstein 5100 series 24-185752 shocks will work for this.

Hesco will see those pics, start mass producing them and retailing each for $125 + shipping. :yes:

No decent parts sources from the domestic Winnebago dealers?

I have plenty of those small plastic tubing ends I've picked up here and there you can have if 500 MJ doesn't have them. My MAP is on the throttle body so I don't need them. Just let me know which ones you need.