HOrnbrod

What's a Honda style automotive relay? Got any specs?

This aux fan wiring mod has been done by many with no problems on the HO models. Did your aux fan work as it should (comes on with the A/C and/or if the coolant temp goes above ~230* degrees or so) before you started the wiring?

The relay pin numbers on my diagram are numbered according to the FSM wiring diagram, and that's how the pins are numbered in the PDC aux fan relay socket. Pins 1 and 5 are the relay coil, corresponding to Bosch relay pins 85 & 86; pins 2 & 4 are the load contacts corresponding to Bosch relay pins 30 and 87. If your relay clicks (energizes) when you ground the BLU/PNK wire, then the circuit is working as it should. Verify this by unplugging the aux fan and apply the ground to the BLU/PNK while monitoring the + lead to the aux fan connector. You should see 12V when the relay clicks. Don't ever test a new circuit with the load (fan) plugged in - use your meter to test the voltage, not the load so if something's wrong you don't blow a fuse.

Another thought - the 2.5's have a pressure switch on the high pressure side of the pump. I thought it's purpose was to bump up the engine RPMs when the pump is under strain, like when parking. Is the switch there and hooked up? It may have something to do with regulating the pump pressure too, not sure........ http://www.ebay.com/itm/53000970-Crown-Power-Steering-Pressure-Switch-JEEP-Wrangler-YJ-Cherokee-XJ-84-97-/291422484851?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item43da223973:g:pqEAAOxypNtSeaKY&vxp=mtr

Sounds like he replaced the hoses......

Got your pump and gear mixed up in my above email - sorry and disregard. I have an oddball setup; 96 ZJ steering gear with a 04 TJ pump (reservoir on the pump). They play well together as did the original 91 pump that I replaced because of terminal leaking. I'm not familiar with the 2.5 setup but it looks like the 2.5 is a much different pump than the 4.0 and has a remote reservoir. I don't see how your problem can be anything other than the pump Tom, even though you have replaced it. The p/n for the 87-90 XJ/MJ 2.5 pump is 53005017. Recommend trying to get a cheap used pump from a 87-90 and sticking it on. You can pick these up for $30-$40 on Ebay, car-part.com, etc. Even if it leaks a bit but works and doesn't create excess pressure you have now you'll know what the problem is. Maybe someone on the forum has a spare 2.5 pump they would be willing to part with too. Are you sure the belt routing is correct and the pump has the correct pulley installed? V-belts or serp?

The best "brand" is New Old Stock Mopar/AMC. I have a couple. PM if interested.

Nothing - it's a problem with the the CC host. I have the same problem. Repairs are in progress...........

Why don't you go back to a good low-mileage junkyard ZJ pump like you had before until it started leaking? I've had one on for many years with zero problems. I don't trust any of the "re-manufactured" junk......

Yes, it's classified as a "universal" headlamp switch connector and can be modified to fit several vehicles. It's the only one I've found that will work with our rigs, outside of trying to find a decent connector you can hack off at the junkyard.

The replacement is AIRTEX Part # 1P1190. The color code will not be correct so you will have to match the wiring using pin position. http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,903,partnum,1P1190,d,AIRTEX_-_WELLS_1P1190.html

The thermostat is one of those "should use" factory parts. It has the hole and jiggle valve built in. Get a 195* factory stat from the dealer.

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRadiatorRestrictor.htm

It's a Swiss cap, generally made for commercial purpose trucks. The company is still around. http://www.swisscaps.cc

The 91 clock indicator light socket holes were not used by the factory on the XJ/MJ Jeeps, but maybe the same clock was used on other vehicles, especially in Japan where the clock was made. It's a great place to pop in lights though instead of hacking a hole in your dash or something. Indicator lights are always nice..........

Which 39psi fixed regulator are you using? I used the Mopar 5277828 regulator and ran it at 39psi with no problem for awhile before I got the Hesco adj. FPR. Other fixed 39psi regulators that are supposed to work are the Chrysler 4418850 and 5277864. Don't know if that's valid for a Renix fuel rail though..........

Something's wrong then. The stock submerged pump should put out 49psi easily, w/o vacuum hooked up of course. I've been running 49psi OBD2 injectors for years using an adjustable regulator. Should do the same using a fixed 49psi OBD2 regulator. Are you trying to get 49psi with the vacuum line hooked up? If you are using 49psi injectors with a 49psi fixed regulator, pump pressure reading on the rail should be ~49psi w/o vacuum.

I was going to ask how you were going to mount the sliders to the frame rail. I would definitely use the nutserts too over self-tappers. What size are you using? I don't have the install tool for nutserts that large assuming they are 1/2" or so..........

The perch distance apart of course is no problem; just copy the existing perches. The using the angle finders compare the relationship between the existing diff pinion angle using housing flats and the top flat of the existing spring perches. Then replicate the angle relationship on the new axle. You can get it real close doing this, then fine tune it later with steel wedges if the pinion angle is a bit too high or low. There's a good article here: http://www.4xshaft.com/tech_slopesVSangles.asp

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm

UPS = United Package Smashers

P/n 53002492 crosses to the fuel sender unit for a carbed 86 MJ with the 23.5 gal. tank.

The 91-93 ignition switches are the same.

Make sure the radio bracket tab goes back into it's slot on reinsertion. :thumbsup:

It will be. :thumbsup: