HOrnbrod

Left or right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-35002930-/301889087491?hash=item4649fde803:g:hOkAAOSw5cNYl0Hy&vxp=mtr

Column shifter knob.

:thumbsup:

Try these first - you may not need the flush mounts. I'm 100% LED except for the dash cluster lights. I'm not going to do them because I don't like how they look, all the colors I've seen, and you lose the dimming feature. You can't adjust the intensity from full off to a gradual full bright with LEDs w/o wiring in an external PWM circuit, and they behave differently depending on the LED type and total circuit load. It's just not worth it to me.

^^ True. I tend to forget about the 2.5 engines - shouldn't do that.

If the tranny is original, yes it's the AX15 for a 91. And a VIN decoder doesn't tell you what the transmission is. Just if it's 2WD or 4WD.

If the existing NC brake switch and the new NC clutch switch are wired in series it should work just fine. Either switch will kill cruise when either pedal is depressed to open the circuit.

Rent / borrow the pressure gauge from AZ or similar chain and do a compression test on all the cylinders.

No, it ain't. My prehistoric graphics editor doesn't have any way (that I know of) to make something look like chrome. The black bumper and trim really saddens me... Bottle opener and screws appropriately "aged". For 30 minutes. :thumbsup: Don's fake metal aging process: 1. Let it boil in a plastic container under straight muriatic acid for 5-10 minutes. 2. Pull it out of the acid and rinse copiously with hot water to neutralize. 3. While still wet, heat it up with a heat gun or propane torch until the desired shade of rust appears. 4. Let cool, then shoot it with clear satin polyurethane. 5. Done.

You guys are killin' me.......

I've got to take it off though and crusty it up in some muriatic acid; it's too shiny............. EDIT: ...........for this application. :yes:

I've got to take it off though and crusty it up in muriatic acid; it's too shiny. Your bench looks more comfortable than mine.

Si. :cheers:

XJ Limited door panels, si? Nice. What's the black circular thingie above the arm rest?

It does, but it could use a muffler. :yes: Too bad MJs don't have room under the hood like the CJs do.

She's 4-1/2 John. Both her and the dogs are on it most of the time. :yes:

Don't you find that people who post pics of their grandchildren and dogs are annoying? :yes:

Did you ever get that stroker running right?

Could somebody expand on this? If my understanding is correct, your using a resistor with a set known value to check against the output value of the sender, to more or less calibrate the sender? Where and how is the resistor wired to test? The best way to "calibrate" the sender is to check the potentiometer resistance with an analog ohmmeter. The range of the fuel sender potentiometer (HO in this case) is from 0 - 105 ohms. The - meter lead is connected to the grounded end of the pot's winding, and the + lead goes to the pot slider terminal. The pot slider is what moves when the float arm rises and falls and sends a varying resistance to the fuel gauge. What you are looking for is 0 ohms at one extreme (full indication), and ~105 ohms at the other (empty tank) with a smooth transition, i.e. no dead spots along the path. The only use for a fixed resistor I can see is to test the circuit for fuel meter deflection based on overall circuit resistance. This is done by substituting a known fixed value resistor for the potentiometer, say 33 ohms, which should indicate a 1/2 full tank on the gauge according to the FSM. The resistance picked off the pot is non-linear due to the irregular arc of the float arm. If you get a half full indication on the fuel gauge at 33 ohms, the circuit is good. But every solder joint, connector, and corrosion point in the circuit will add resistance, so the fuel gauge will normally indicate something less than 1/2 full because on an HO sender, more resistance equals less fuel gauge needle deflection. This is opposite from the Renix fuel gauge, as more circuit resistance results in more meter deflection. Thus the HO and Renix fuel gauges are of opposite polarities. All the dash gauges read varying resistance from their respective senders to vary the meter movement coil and indicate and none are known for their high degree of accuracy. It is what it is........

Good job on your ASCII MJ. :cheers:

THIS is a good kit Knuck for not much money. Just practice first with some scrap 3/16" brake line until you learn the technique well.

I remember Frank well. Very sharp guy. Passed many emails back and forth with him picking his brain when I had questions. He always had the time and the answers. Is he still around? Profile updated August of 2016: http://www.zoominfo.com/p/Frank-Swygert/49380515 Guess he's AMC retired. http://www.amc-mag.com/

I remember Frank well. Very sharp guy. Passed many emails back and forth with him picking his brain when I had questions. He always had the time and the answers. Is he still around?

It would have better if you had asked first. But no worries - you're not the only forum member who has stolen parts of my signature and avatar. I guess I should be flattered......

Yes. Also, where did you get the ASCII art MJ in your signature?