HOrnbrod

That's right - had forgotten about that.

:dunno: I wasn't involved in the R&D of the 0331 head Dirty. :yes: I'm sure it wasn't intentional, as they lost millions developing and replacing the heads with the fixed TUPY heads. They also had a similar flock up with the early V6 Pentastar heads, mainly the left side. Chrysler's not the only automotive mfg. to have massive recalls because of an aw-crap screw-up during the R&D process. Sheite happens to all vehicle manufacturers as you might realize, even to AMC. One of the reasons why they are history now.

Chrysler cheaping out - :yes: Correct John. The 1996 factory blocks were the first to receive the extra main webs for NVH reduction, and the main bearing girdle to stiffen/strengthen the motor. I had this girdle installed in my pre-96 block by Hesco when they built my engine. Interweb pic of the girdle below: These girdles can be installed on any pre 96 HO engine.

This one will work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GM-OEM-STEERING-COLUMN-SHIFT-LEVER-25619183-2561-9183-FREE-SHIPPING-/152438194724?hash=item237e064224:g:YBcAAOSwzLlXh7Vr&vxp=mtr

Thanks Jeff, and yes, that would be a major PITA and get old quickly. I guess I'll pass on the rocker seats idea.......

I switched to the 94 and up distributor quite awhile ago in my 91 so I can't help with the older 91-93 distributor parts. The newer distributor is more maintenance friendly. Taylor 8mm wires are excellent, good choice.

For ignition stuff (wires, distributor parts) I've been using Accel stuff with brass terminals for years and have had good results. For spark plugs I've used the Champion copper cores for all the 4.0 Jeeps I've had through the years. Recently based on the recommendations from some of our forum members I tried a set of NGK ZFR5N plugs. I have to admit the idle was smoother and starting cranking time was quicker. You can't go wrong with either plug.

I've meant to do a write up on the rocker bases but have many projects in front of it. IIRC, the rocker assembly/tracks are taller, and the XJ mounting bases/brackets are correspondingly shorter to make up for it. The rocker bases also use their own specific plastic trim. A guy could swap the tracks/rockers onto MJ bases, but they would be to tall. There may have even been a left/right offset to account for also, but it's been to long since I looked at them to remember. Anythings possible, and it just might be worth it, since the bases pivot, you can actually get into a "reclined" position without the seat back/headrest going to far back. I think they would be great in an MJ if done correctly. I'd love to see your writeup when you can get to it. I can see no problem getting them low enough; the problem would be the front-to-back real estate. I'm a hair over 6' but most of that is legs, so I have to have the seat way back so my knees don't hit the steering wheel. This means the seat back has to be tilted forward too much. A tilt column would mostly fix that, but I haven't been able to find one with column shift, which I want to keep. Anyhow, I'd like to get a couple of the rocker bases to play with. :yes:

I just noticed your signature and agree with your vehicle choices. :cheers: 1991 MJ & 2015 JKU Sahara for our his and hers. :yes:

Man, that's going to be nice. Do you have a black column and wheel for it too?

Our MJs never came with the rocking bases, and I doubt whether there would be enough room in the cab to fully use them if you're over 5' tall. :yes: I've never tried seats with the rocking bases. They sound neat.

I had them in my stash at the time.

If I were stranded out in the Siberian steppes in the middle of winter with a semi-dead battery, I would definitely like to have this option. :yes:

They are XJ seats from an 88 (I think) Cherokee Laredo 2DR on MJ bases. I put new covers and seat bottoms on them and didn't have to modify anything.

Well, that was pretty painless. Pulled the plastic lever off, put a wrench on the rectangular shaft and slowly rocked it back and forth until the linkage broke free internally. Then used a can of WD40 Dry Lube with a long extension on the nozzle and douched down the control rod bushings across the seat back. Can lift the lever and adjust the seat back now with one finger. Both sides too. Wish they were all this easy. :thumbsup:

Have you done a complete tuneup (new plugs, distributor rotor and cap, and ignition wires) since you purchased this truck? A weak CPS signal can cause hard starting too. Disconnecting the CPS cable at it's round 3-pin connector (drivers side of the engine near the firewall) and cleaning the pins with some contact cleaner usually helps.

I assume the lever pulls upward to unlock and move the seat back? I've pulled the crap out of them but didn't want to break anything. This thread sounds like I'm an idiot, but I've never used these levers before since I'm the only driver and never tried to adjust the seat back. :dunce:

Both levers on my seats are immovable and the seat backs can't be adjusted. I've never tried to fix it - what's the solution? Hopefully it's not a complete teardown....... Interweb Pic:

Really? What would it be then?

All this is off topic. No need for any more.

I hope you paid her well. The trailer camo looks good. :thumbsup:

Are you going SOA? No I will be using Hell Creeks lift with full springs. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk In that case I would wait on the cables until you get your lift installed. A rear SOA lift is pretty easy to predict the lift results, but spring lift results can vary. I did a spring lift using MT springs and longer shackles, swapped the axle and installed disk brakes, and my stock cables were plenty long enough. You don't want to buy longer cables until you are sure you need them.

Are you going SOA?

Nice work Fred-man. If and when my sender dies, I'll stick my NOS one in, then send you my broken one for repair. Deal?

Consider installing a flex joint as close as possible to the manifold and you will be fine.