HOrnbrod

Dirty recommends the rebuild option because where he's from ( :Canadaflag:) there aren't any used doors available that have anything usable left except for some of the plastic and the glass. :rotfl2: OP, you're in CO; there are tons of good doors available. I bet Yella just down the road from you in the Springs has a stack of them for cheap and one maybe wearing the correct color for your rig. http://comancheclub.com/topic/50680-colorado-folks-lot-sale-yellas-5-15-liquidation-sale-updated-103/

The "J" trucks have a relationship with the full size Cherokees and other FSJs similar to what the Comanche has with the Cherokee XJ in that they share many similar parts. Your best source of J-truck info will be HERE. There are many fine folks there that can and will ID the specifics of your truck.

If your sheet metal is that roached out on your existing door, probably the hardware inside is in similar condition. I'd just pick up a another decent door from the junkyard or elsewhere and bolt it on.

Agree.

DIY: OR take a speed run down to Ohio: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52240-free-long-bed-camper-shell-strasburg-oh/

That's nice. All that should be in the signature.

What are you driving wtf?? How about editing your signature to show your rig details. At least HO or Renix. http://comancheclub.com/topic/51707-cc-members-edit-or-create-a-signature-to-describe-your-truck/

This is the one you need then. I just measured the side angle of my door with my angle finder - it's exactly 15*. My shell is MJ specific and came off an 89 Pioneer long bed. I bought the truck in 04 in PA and drove it back to Bama just for the shell. It was a Pioneer model 5-speed and ran pretty well. But of course it was a Renix which I didn't want so I stripped/exchanged the parts I wanted from it and almost doubled my money reselling it. :yes: As far as I know it's still running around somewhere in south GA.

96 and below cruise servos will work on your 91.

Glad they worked for you. :cheers: Now we'll see how long they last. Mine are still hanging.

Me either on the HO speedos. The Renix odometers/trip meters are cake to alter/fix, but not the HO's.

I do have some numbers stenciled on the inside upper door frame rail on my camper shell. Looks like 5419 15'. HTH........ These are the measurements I sent you earlier. Pretty close........

My dad had a 56 chevy and my uncle had a 55 chevy - at least one of those had the fuel filler behind the tail lamp. Think it was my dad's 56. Yep. the 56 Chevy models. GM I think started the cap behind the tail light craze with the 52 Caddys. Then some Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs got the hidden gas filler treatment too. Can't think of any Ford or Chrysler cars in that era that had them behind a tail lamp or piece of chrome though.......

Search for these: Ididit 2600250051 (Black bezel) or Ididit 2600250040 (Polished aluminum bezel)

AFAIK booster check valves are sort of universal, but I'm not positive. I'd still try a new booster check valve before springing for a new booster. O'Reilly's sells a (ugh) Dorman one (p/n 80189) that will work for about $6. Worth a shot.........

What did the WJ booster check valve do when you tried it?

Did you try sucking and blowing through the check valve?

Plenty available for the rear D44 - got a 4.10 Yukon set in mine. :yes:

There are some disadvantages to the newer coil pack system, but I think the advantages outweigh them. The stock distributor shafts can break, the drive gears wear out, the shaft bushings get egged out, etc. causing sloppy timing or an engine that cuts off randomly. I've had to replace two distributors so far because of this. The 96 distributor I have in there now also eliminates the cam sensor problems of the earlier models. Some of the stroker guys are using the 6-port Viper coil pack on a 4.x Jeep engine with a fabded mounting bracket, not the stock 00-01 Jeep 3-coil setup. And if you're upgrading say an OBD1 Jeep engine, you only need one O2 sensor, or two for the later models, an upstream and downstream. I thinking seriously of doing this mod and have started gathering parts. Can't see a reason not to......

Bench seat headrests are listed in the 87-90 parts manual, so they did exist.

I've never seen thick gears for a D30 - don't think they are manufactured.

Try the booster checks HERE.

Si, they are not comfortable at all. No side support and the seat back remained fixed. They are definitely back killers.....

I'm sooo jealous of that guy that swapped in a 60/40 bench from (I think) a dakota. :drool: it looked comfy as all get out. MJ benches are, well, basic. Basic, yes, that's a word that could describe them. And no headrests. I'm not exactly a safety Nazi, but I'd rather not break my neck because somebody hit me from behind. 91's and up did.

Thank you Sir! :cheers: The shift indicator is ridiculously easy to install. http://www.ididitinc.com/accessories-3/ShiftIndicators_Acc-17