Akula69

I've done it several times. First time I used this link: http://www.buickperformance.com/tiltste ... wobble.htm The column is identical as all our columns are the saginaw model. The advice about the blue locktite is good, as the care needed with the tilt pin removal.

This thing? SW2 - the image is what mine looks like...it has these little plastic push pins to hold it in place. I managed to recover a used one in pretty good shape from an '89...but it may be too compressed (from use) to be effective in sealing. I'll know more when I strip the cab for re-painting because it'll give me the chance to seal around all the holes. I like the seam sealer idea, but believe it sets up too hard for items like the speedo and shift cable (both of which move in thier grommet under use). Perhaps a combination of a new cowl seal and some sort of sealer is the answer. Another thought would be some sort of diverter welded to the firewall above each grommet (assuming there is not too much water coming up from below but only running down the firewall). Of course that would require a lot more work.

Ah. Wonder why I didn't think about that! :D :hmm:

I have been slowly working towards locating all the pesky leaks that the MJ has (after replacing a great amount of the floor pan). Unfortunately, after it rains I still get a small amount of water in the truck, and I have no intention of putting down new carpeting until I handle the problem. I have not yet replaced the cowl to hood seal, but suspect that the leaks are around the penetrations through the firewall. Althought I have an extra seal I do not believe that will completely solve the problem. Unfortunately, many of the firewall penetrations are covered with grommets and/or seals that are made onto the cable (or whatnot) that passes thru the hole, and most are no longer available (like the speedo/cruise control cable which comes with the non-removable grommet made onto the cable). My question is: Has anyone tried to seal around these penetrations in the firewall and, what have you tried? I tried some black silicone around the speedo cable, which worked for a short while but then the movement of the cable broke it free. (however, I used the same silicone around the hole I made for the engine bay harness CPS bypass mod, and so far it has held). Any other ideas? Thanks.

Good point. Other then checking the cable and greasing it frequently, there really isn't a whole lot that one can do for that design. Of course, you can always bed mount the tire like Pete and others have done and forgo the cable/winch entirely. Any other attempt to secure it (i.e. nylon net attached with small bolts through grommets attached to the frame, for instance) would be subject to getting snagged by objects or ruined by the elements... :cheers:

The FCC has spoken! :popcorn: :chillin:

BHLTAZ is right - we will never be given more then we were meant to handle. Hang in there and take care of your family/self.

Welcome to the club Steve, you have some great work there.

Glad she is OK - and I echo the comments about family first...it's great to have the toys, but better to know when they need to go.

You could always repair the stalk: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12508

Usually, you can contact your state office of motor vehicles and request a history of ownership on the vehicle. They will not give you driver's license numbers, but may give you addresses of previous owners depending on the state. They may, however, not cooperate at all due to federal laws on that information. Secondly, there are companies like Carfax that will run a title search (for a fee) that will identify where it was registered and you can sometimes contact that local jurisdication and plead your case. Given a VIN number you can determine the current owner.

(whispered in a deep teutonic accent....) It's the VORMS!!!!!

Ah BLHTAZ, ya gotta be a duck, and just let it all roll off your back. BUT...you can get some amusement occasionally. I stopped a young African-american the other day for not using his turn signal, and speeding. He was driving a chebby camero that had been red but was now red with black primer spots. When I first saw the violation he was about 2 blocks from his house, and he finally stopped right out front of the house. From the moment he got out of the car he was griping, whining and complaining. Of course, I had the camera/mic in the car running the whole time. He started with the classic "Why are you stopping me - I haven't done nuthin" line that pretty much assures a citation, and then shifted to "What...just cause we got a black president now you gotta pick on the black folks" and then ended up with "you cops, ya'll don't have anything else better to do then harass the public? Why don't you just go and get a donut somewhere?" Well, as usual, I stayed really calm, reminding him of the violations that caused the stop, and asking him to sign, and giving him his copy of the citation. Then, after about 1/2 hour later, I passed back by the house and set a nice, fresh glazed donut on the rear spoiler for him. I really haven't been by there since, but I hope he enjoyed it :brows:

Yeah...he wants $1300.00 and its in pretty bad shape for a 87. Red with tan interior, new BFG Wranglers on stock rims are the best feature. The guy has ripped the carpet up and 'relocated' the AC controls (hanging from hole in dash with tape wrapped around it). Has rust on floorboards with some thru and thru. and yeah, sry about the :hijack:

My son just made one for his class. Literally, you need: 2 - 3 " wide x 18 " long 3/4 " thick foam board (body) 4 - 3" wide x 2" long foam board (axle braces) 2 - 3" wide x 4 1/4" long foam board (axle bottoms) 1 - plastic soda straw (axle shaft) 2 - 10" wooden skewer (used in cooking) (axle) 4 - wine corks (must be cork) (wheel hubs) 1 - 18* long x 1/8" dia. welding rod (torsion rod) 24" string (not kite string) (propulsion) 4 CD's (wheels) 1 - regular mouse trap (motor) Duct tape Tools: Hot glue gun knife Sharpie marker Tape measure The body: Glue the two 3x18 foam sections together, then glue a 2x3 block at each end on the bottom side. Leaving 1/4 space between the blocks, glue the other 2x3 block beside the first. When dry, carefully cut the straw into a 3" long piece and insert into the 1/4 slot between the two 2x3 blocks, them glue the 3x41/4 block over the 2-2x3 blocks. Set aside to dry. Wheels: Lay a CD onto the end of a cork and mark the hole onto the cork. Using the knife, carefully cut the excess cork around the mark down the cork's body approximately 1/4". Press the CD onto the cork and secure with hot glue. Set aside to dry. Axle: Measure and cut 2 - 6" pieces of the skewer. Test insert into axle sharts (straws) under body for free motion. Carefully sharpen each end and, taking one of the wheel/hub assemblies insert the point into the exact center for the hub opposite the trimed end. It is important that you get the exact center, as the wheel will not turn smoothly if off center. Secure the wooden axle with hot glue and let dry. When dry, insert the axle thru the straw and insert/glue the other side's hub. Motor/Torsion bar: IF ALLOWED: remove the bait tray and trip lever from mouse trap, leaving the base, spring and snap bar. Carefully insert the sharpie under the snap bar (to hold it up) and hot glue the 1/8" rod the the right side of the snap bar. You will need to hold it until it sets, then wrap a small piece of duct tape around the joint. Remove the sharpie and glue the trap to the body as follows: holding the car end on in front of you, point the rod away from you, and glue the trap with the rod on the top at the right front. The rod should stick straight out from the front of the car about 17" along the right front. Now: Tie the string to the end of the rod and hot glue the knot. Tie the other end to the rear axle on the right side and glue the knot. To Run the car: Hold the trap open and slowly revolve the right rear wheel opposite the direction you want the car to go in. When the string is carefully would around the wooden axle (keep away from the body to prevent binding). Set on floor and release. My son's car went 38 feet. :D

We have three here that I know about and are running, but four now that I found one in the impound yard at work....too bad I can't buy it.

Mine broke while I was fooling with the vaccum lines and scalded the $#!& out of me, and then I replaced it with a piece of hose that had a 90 degree bend it it from the auto zone. works fine and like hornbrod said, keeps the coolant flowing throught the heater core.

Not difficult but will require some disassembly of the column. There is a thread here on itbut I can't find it right now. Basically, removal of the horn button and steering wheel, removal of the lock plate on the column (with lock plate remover!) and the turn signal assembly is held on with three screws. EDIT: Found it. look at the first six slides: (assumes steering wheel already removed) http://www.buickperformance.com/tiltsteeringcolumnwobble.htm

Painted my daughter's XJ in the garage...2 stage Dupont paint with a fender replacement and sanding off old clearcoat remains/ applying Dupont epoxy sealer for $450.00. I already owned the compressor and the gravity feed gun...

I picked up a pair from an 89 xj that I installed into my daughter's 95 xj...the mounting bolts matched perfectly and I just wired up the red to 12V and grounded the other lead to the floor pan. They work great and only required a seat cover (until I can afford to get them re-covered).

Thanks for the link - I was wondering about how to solve that problem myself. However...there are three different items on that page...the main difference that I see is that the first one is for vehicles without seperate circuits for turn signals and brake lights. Can you advise which one is the correct choice?

In the XJ that I 'disassembled' for parts, the wiring for that module went across the roof to the passenger mirror assembly (that had a lighted vanity mirror) and followed those two wires down the passenger A pillar to the dash harness. The red wire seems to run all the way to the fuse box, and the black joined the ground wire network under the dash. The brown joined the brown wire coming from the vanity mirror. The green....I've no idea...it just took off under the dash somewhere... :dunno:

Am I the only one who is glad that I read this thread from the begining ? Or, do I just have a really dirty mind? (running hard away from Brent) :rotf:

Nutserts it is, however the holes should be there as part of the standard stamping.

Push up then gently pull out. There are two right-angle hooks and several snap-in type plastic pins. Some had a thin foam sealing band glued to them, and over time that band may have "stuck" itdelf to the truck.