Akula69

BLTAZ posted a electrical manual here in the forum...http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734 and that will be of great help. The turn signal/wiper wiring is actually the flat, multi-colored harness that goes down the column and is visable coming out of the bottom of the column shroud. It may be encased in a black plastic sheath for protection. You can see it in this picture...with the white plug at the end:

x2 :agree:

Don't know the color you are looking for, but I have several in grey color if you're interested.

It really depends on your budget. I always suggest that a client go for the highest bandwidth he can reasonably afford...for several reasons: 1) Running over your allotted bandwidth can result in throttling (gradual shutdown) that can happen at the most inopportune time; OR, you could be charged at a higher per minute (or MB) rate if you go over. In some cases the provider does not even need to notify you if you go over (however, Verizon does this via automatic notification) 2) Your bandwidth needs now may increase in the future, and a mid-contract change in the plan usually results in a contract extension. If you go with the bigger plan and find it unnecessary (or non-affordable) it is easier to tell customer service 'I made a mistake' and possible avoid the termination fee. In any case I would go over the agreement with a fine-tooth comb, and be sure to ask any questions before you jump. You can also PM me with questions (or post them here) and I'll answer them for you. :cheers:

Hmmm...dunno when you're gonna do it, but I got a petit jusry summons for tomorrow morning at 0900...so I'm outa pocket for a few days. If you want me to help bend some wrenches for ya - give me a call (you still got the number, right?) we can probably do it later in the week.

Yup. Thanks!

I recently purchased another dash clock for the Christmas MJ, as the two I had already refused to work properly. The clock would work, but the display was quite dim. Unfortunately, the new one works no better, and it's really bugging me :fs1: I used to have a link to a page that showed the various types of clocks, and more importantly, the wiring for each. I believe the dash wiring has a glitch and need to see the corresponding clock diagram. (I have the electrical manual for the dash harness). Does anyone remember that page (or link)? Thanks in advance :D

After the malware elimination if you are still having problems you can try Codecom's Registry Distiller, which safely eliminates old and/or broken registry entries. Get it here: http://www.codeode.com/registrydistiller/index.html Works great and I use it on all my networks. :cheers:

It would cause me to yell at the person who left them loose, if it were my truck :cheers:

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :bowdown: Finest kind!

Gotta be a joke - no one is that handicapped. :ack:

SW2 - I can't tell if you have space on the side of your electrical panel, but there is also the possibility of a sub panel. I'd need to know what your electrical service is (the meter rating from the electrical company). Most houses built these days use a 200 AMP service, some go with a 300 AMP. If you're lucky, that'll be what you have and a sub-panel would be the safest way to go. I still do not believe a tap on the A/C line is safe, even after seeing the gauge of wire that is currently being used. Even if it was safe, if the electrical service on the house is maxed out, you could have a fire in your panel. I can't see the AMP ratings of the breakers you currently have, but it appears your panel is only rated for 125 AMPS. The breakers are marked for the AMP rating (of course you are not using all those AMPS at once, but a general rule of thumb would be to add them up and divide by 1/3 to get the actual constant usage). You'll need to either look at the meter pan (or post a picture) to find out if it can be done.

X2. You can just run a heavy extension cord in the door to the dryer circuit when you need it. You can also just "tee" off the dryer circuit with another receptacle in the garage. You could only run 1 at a time as the load would be too heavy for simoultanious (sp) use though. I did the extesion cord thing for a while till I got my shop built. I would reccomend at least a 5hp 60 gal. compressor. I personally would like even more capacity than that. I have been keeping my eyes open for an additional tank to plumb in. Do this only if you want to increase the risk of fire. :eek: Like Eagle said, the best option is a dedicated circuit that feeds a true 240V off at least a 40 AMP breaker. I would actually go with 6 gauge wire (same as what is used to wire ovens here in La.) to reduce the risks of overheating. It really depends on whether you believe sustained use will occur (grinder, inline sander, some tank-fed spray guns). The wires will get hot with current, especially if you run a considerable distance. An extension cord would not be suitable unless it was overlarge gauge. And, the CFM ratings on the tools are all lies....expect at least 1.5 to 2 times more air usage then what they list.

Geez - that really sounds like a place I'd want to visit myself. Pete - I hope you stuck a few CC stickers on the jeeps you saw :brows: :D Thanks for the info...maybe some day Chrysler will set them up so we can all enjoy them.

Yah - Happy turkey day! :cheers:

Other then the historian and a few isolated wrench benders, most of the Chrysler folks probably don't even know that they exist. There is already visable salt damage on the springs in the one photo - no telling what other areas the salt might be slowly eating this truck's soul....Kinda sad they didn't give it a good cleaning after the test runs. Pete - in the picture of the dash there are two buttons mounted in the panel where the clock (and sentinal module) goes. Where you able to see what they were for?

I had run intothem as well when I cleaned my valve cover, and they crumbled immediately upon trying to get them off. I re-installed my cover without them, and immediately started to have more oil fouling the lines. I pulled it back off and used black gasket silcone (Permatex Ultra Black, part # PX82180) on both sealing surfaces of the plates and the oil seepage stopped. In other words, I'd vote for yes :yes: :cheers:

How timely. I was working on the vacuum lines yesterday and the daymn plastic valve broke, spraying my left hand with 210 degree water. :fs1: Needless to say I spent the rest of the day inside with an ice pack. today - I cut the valve out of the system...never to return.

Thanks - I did not know that...learn something new every day! :D

I have noticed that the private messages that I compose sometimes remain in my outbox for several days before being sent. Is there a setting that controls this behavior in an area that I have access to? (this is adjustable in Outlook, for example). Or, am I just stupid because I cannot find the button to actually 'send' them. (and I am not talking about the 'send' button at the bottom of the message). Usually it takes about 1-1 1/2 days for a private message to be sent from my box, however, sometimes it goes faster. Tere is no consistancy. Thanks Jake

Yeah, I have one that is connected, and the non-connected one. Do you only have one Hornbrod? Jake

I wondered the same thing SWII, I found the same plug when I was locating my underhood light plug, and still cannot figure out what it's for.

Ya'll are both nuts :nuts: What if God decided to play teeter-totter and you were the teeter? You'd better learn how to fly like, quick. 'course, if it was anything like the Wiley Coyote, the rock would come down behind you... :ack: :popcorn:

Well, my dream job was to work in law enforcement. I got that, but I believed that just chasing bad guys around was the thing. I have since learned that what I really was yearning for was simply to help folks.

Congratulations Hope you're caught up on your sleep...