Akula69

Yeah, my MJ does not have that sensor on the radiator (that is currently installed) - never did. I also do not have the relay on the inner fender. I have always wondered why the PO had clipped the plug off the fan leads and hard wired in the harness (that eventually ends at the ECM). I suppose thats another mystery I'll have to solve and correct. Does anyone have the specs on the relay, or is it just a common one I can pick up anywhere? (the electrical manual is not real specific). Thanks

I love cats, and like some dogs Been a Cop for 10 years (with a degree in Finance :nuts: ) Install and upgrade servers and networks in spare time Am a licensed contractor in the state of Louisiana At 48 Years can still meet the Cooper standards

Thanks for the pic, Brent. :cheers: Okay, now you have my attention Chico. Do you have a schematic of the hookup for the relay/fan/sensor? A picture of the setup would be really good as well. I believe that (the way it's wired now) the aux fan only comes on when the A/C is on...I gotta check that....but using that sensor makes a hella more sense. Thanks Guys

When you speak of an aux fan, are you talking about the electric fan on the right side of the radiator? mine is hard-wired into a harness that runs thru the firewall to the ECM. (it appears to be a custom pin change to the ECM). If not that fan, where would anothe be mounted? Thanks

Does anyone have a picture of the temp sender (at the top rear of the engine) that feeds that dash gauge? I went to pick one up at Advance the other day, and they only have a listing for a temp switch, which looks suspicously similar to the sender that is installed for the 'idiot light'. I know where it's located, just need to comfirm it's appearance. Also - picked up an almost brand new radiator from the JY several days ago..is has what appears to be a temp sensor embedded in the right-hand tank (just above the power steering line). Is this an alternate location for the temp sender, or is this sender for another purpose?

Thats good to know, 'cause I just bought some new bulbs (you didn't think I just browsed the books, did you?) and I don't want to create new problems... :cheers:

Hmmm... the book (for choosing light bulbs) at both the local NAPA and the Advance Auto both indicate that 1157 and 1156 can be used interchangeably in our vehicles.

Daymn, I was gonna send Pesos. :D I'm gonna get one - sent you an e-mail Brent.

I agree the thing in question is the rear proportioning valve, but it is incorrect to suggest that there are two in an MJ. The front metering block in the MJ provides NO proportioning, all it does is send brake fluid out through the different hard lines. That's why I refer to it as a "metering block" rather than as a "combination valve." The one in an XJ (Cherokee) does include a proportioning function, and is therefore called a "combination valve." The one in the MJ is completely different, even though the shape of the aluminum chunk looks the same on the outside. If you have one that's just hanging, that means the actuating rod isn't connected to the differential, and that means the proportioning valve isn't adjusting for the height of the bed. It also means you have no idea if the proportioning valve is allowing full braking to the rear wheels, or NO braking to the rear wheels, or somewhere in between. It's in situations like this (or, as in mine, when the thing blows out) that I advocate just removing it and running a single line to the rear axle from the front. The plus to that is you always know you have full rear brakes. The negative is that full rear brakes may cause the rears to lock prematurely in a panic situation, so if you go that route -- try the brakes out in some hard stops, and if the rear end gets too squirrely for your comfort level, either replace the rear wheel cylinders with smaller diameter cylinders, or put a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve into the line to the rear. Hmmm.. I don't disagree with you Eagle, but I've always seen both of them called "prop" valves up until now.

I read a MSN moneyline article that states that Chrysler is on the hook for 30 million in bonuses and is now petitioning the government for a 25 billion bailout. There was a comment attached to the article that said Lee Ioccoa took no salary or bonus for the period he was in charge while the company was struggling. I am so disgusted with this greed $#!& with these big companies, I have half a mind to just let them all fail. :mad: :headpop: After all, the airlines all went bankrupt at one time or another, and they still flew during that period... :thwak: :thwak:

no 'V' neck shirts? gets kinda hot down here ya know... :D

Well, I believe that you are talking about the rear proportioning valve (or prop valve). There are two such valves on the truck...one up by the master cylinder, and one above the axle in the rear. And, although mine doesn't, the "spinning" thing you mention is probably the load sensor that creates additional braking power if the truck is loaded. You might want to check this thread for info, and follow the links in it as well for additional info and drawings. It mainly deals with changing out the booster and master cylinder, but also talks about the prop valve and it's function. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12473&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a HTH :cheers:

I was browsing EBay yesterday and came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330286193183&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem= I had never seen one, and none of the Jeeps I have owned (or dismantled) have had one. I can see how it fastens and the need for it, as my after-market radio hangs out in space right now (secured by the four dash screws). Does anyone here have one, or had one? and if so, did it actually help? Thanks Jake :cheers:

Ah.....yeah. OK :popcorn:

Even if it looks funny next to the headlight door? :D

HTH = Hope This Helps Locker = ?

My wife used to have a little adhesive sticker (that I am sure was printed just as a joke) that had a picture of Micky Mouse on it flipping someone off, and the text said " I hope you don't screw like you park, cause you'll never get it in." I always wanted to stick that to someone's car.... :D :yes:

Looks really great! did you prrl the old black finish off the window trim, or start with unpainted trim? and, what kind of paint did you use?

On the old Pontiac Trans Am there was a hood scoop that collected ram air and diverted it through a special flange that sat on top of the air cleaner. It had a foam rubber lip on the top that tightly sealed it to the bottom of the scoop. In our trucks I don't believe you'd have enough space between the top of the valve cover and the bottom of the hood for a similar set up, but that would be one way to get it done.

On the back end of the valve cover (closested to firewall) there is a small fitting on the cover with a line line going to the Air box - that is the crankcase breather - it's probably clogged and needs to be cleaned out.

I understand that some folks like to wheel thier trucks, but that is just a waste. :shake: That and the very over used adjective. :eek: :no:

Hehe... So you stole someone else's spot and left them out in the cold. Thats probably the adult thisg to do. But, if they make it a habit, or its just too far to walk in the cold you could use this: http://www.botachtactical.com/strattriisps.html After a few tire changes they'd get the idea. :D

x2 :agree: I'd buy it.

Its dripping, but quite a bit, it seems to be running fine. Now I'm worried, when I hear "hole in the block"... Well, if it was a hole in the block it probably would not be running well... :eek: ;) I'm starting to agree with the others - maybe a bad valve seal. I believe that can be checked with a compression test...but there may be better ways...lets let a couple of the experts here weigh in first.

Little more info is needed: Firstly, is it still running, and if so is it running fairly normal (i.e. - no rods thru the side of the block). Secondly, can you see any joint or seam it might be coming from. You say not the valve cover or oil pan, but could it be streaming back down the side of the engine from the front main seal? Could it be leaking from the head gasket? Is there coolant in the oil? Third, you indicate it's a bad leak. How bad is "bad"...a stream that flows or just drips?