Akula69

Just one more note - those jamb switch wires are really a biatch to get back into the jamb. :headpop: I suggest that you remove the jamb switch and then tie a string or small wire to the wires BEFORE you remove the kick panel seal and pull your 'fish' wire through with them. Makes re-install a whole lot easier

Maybe, but unlikely. Locate the courtesy light plug under the dash. On the driver's side it will be a black plug that has two black wires (one with tracer) on one side and a pink on the other. it had two contacts in the plug end. Plug the multimeter into those leads, and shut both doors. (stay inside !) Rotate the headlight switch until it 'clicks', which is the position for ON for the dome lights. Read the meter - should show 12V+ Rotate the headlight switch again to OFF and read meter. Should be 0.0V. If those two tests are good, it's likely the switch is good. Pulling the headlight knob to ON will illuminate the headlights, but not check the dome lights. Also - while you're under there searching for the courtesy plug, make sure the small ground wire is attached at the back of the headlight switch at bottom. Let us know how it turns out.

I just fought this war :chillin: The dome lights do work if you rotate the headlight switch to the furthest position (you feel the 'click' in the knob). THe other way they activate is through the door jamb spst button. The black wire with the white tracer goes from the chime module to the drivers side door jamb, then across the vehicle to the passenger side jamb. Both the radio fuse (15) and the dome fuse (10) must be present and not blown The wire from the jamb buttons completes the ground for the lights. The reason it comes from the chime module first is so that the buzzer will sound when the key is left in the ignition when the door is opened. Check the jamb spst buttons first. Usually on an older truck they will have become tarnished and non-conductive. When removing them do so carefully, as the wires are twisting inside the jamb when you turn the button. Once cleaned you can check them with an Ohm meter. The connection from the harness to the jamb buttons are under the kick panels....sometimes PO disconnect them due to the dead short issues that run the battery down. If they are clean and connected, check the 102 ground (bottom of dash inbetween E-brake release and steering column). If rusty, remove, clean and re-install. Lastly, (assuming you still have the old style dome lights) if you have done all the above, and still get no dome lights, make sure the headlight switch is not rotated on, open the drivers door and check the plug on the dome light with a multimeter. center pin is positive 12V, left black wire with tracer is jamb ground wire. If you get +/- 12V across them, then the contacts in the dome light are bad. The old dome lights have a rotating wheel that makes contact with one of two possible grounds inside the fixture. The 12V+ is always present, but the small metal roller is brass and will become non-conductive with age. HTH, and let us know how it turns out! :cheers:

Haven't updated for awhile, so here goes: Once the old rubber mat came up the floor was, well, rusty as usual for a twenty year old truck. I didn't get pictures of it at the time, but there numerous porforations. Now, the floor is patched and sealed with a coat of undercoating to top it off. My son has decided he wants to go back with carpet. Underside After that fun, I went ahead and started to prepare for the new dash and console. I found that the splices using the inline taps by the PO were not just limited to the rear bumper area....I removed 8 more from under the dash. It seems he was getting power from evey hot wire he could find! In any case, once the dash was out I traced out each of the plugs and labeled them... Then ran down all the problems with the dome and underdash lights....solving the door to frame short and several others in the process, and added the harness for a power antenna from a donor XJ. Also rewrapped the entire harness to solve abrasion and rattle problems. The best part was when the interior lights actually came on: This book was invaluable - everyone should have one! It really doesn't matter what year (between 86 and 89 are the same as far as I can tell). It has all the 4 trim level harnesses and identified all the plugs. Also replaced the e-brake cable from the pedal to the underbody plate. The new one was from Autozone; I mention that because it was completely rubber coated and sealed (unlike the old one which was rusted solid). Next is the donor console, dash and tilt wheel. The interior will be the blue/gray. More to come later.

Believe me, I know what you mean. My 17 YO daughter will be heading off to college in about a year from now - was not able to get the free ride (on the scholarship) and we'll have to do the loan route. By latest estimate, we'll be carrying 60K when she's done (assuming she doesn't mess around). I am thinking it'll be really hard to get that kind of dough :roll:

That build is great! I second the german Beer as well!

I don't see that they are saying that you did that or are uneducated...they just don't want it going that way. Your comments "seemed to be" bordering on being hostile which happens all too easily in these types of "conversations" ;) :cheers: . Exactly. I believe this forum was created for the exchange of information on Jeep vehicles and how to enjoy them. God knows most of the folks here are much more educated on them then I am, and I'm grateful for them :D Pete has requested (and instills) a measure of respect and temperance here that is not found in other, similar forums. I would hazard to say thats why most of us come here, and occasionally visit others. Gold, I'm not saying your uneducated, and I do believe in a person speaking thier mind (so to speak!), I just believe we should stay above the pointed attacks and stick to even-handed discussions when it comes to politics. As I said, it's probably better to just turn it off, because we all have strong opinions about the topic, and those opinions could potentially harm what we are really here for. But, I don't drive the train...and I don't get to blow the whistle..... :cheers:

Well, I checked the sockets and ground up front, the sockets seemed corrosion free, and although the ground looked good I pulled it off and cleaned the metal-to-metal contact. I suppose there could be corrosion in the harness somewhere. The high beams were not on, but I did cycle them on and off but it made no difference in the situation.

The MJ is an 89, and the cluster came from an 89 XJ.

I replaced the cluster on the MJ, and in the process I broke the speedo cable :headpop: but managed to get a new one quickly from Brent. Continuing my string of good luck, the cluster works fine in all aspects except (you knew that was coming...) When I turn on the headlights the right turn indicater illuminates solid on. When I trip the turn signal stalk it blinks, as does the left turn indicator. When the headlights are off it is not illuminated, and works normally. I have checked the connections and changed the bulbs...I believe it must be the cluster as the previous cluster did not have that problem. Any ideas would be welcome!

I vote for ya Eagle! :cheers:

Pete, Eagle, how 'bout banning political discussions entirely like most all the auto/truck forums do. This is a super forum dedicated to our MJs and doesn't need statements as above from people who must live under rocks. They can post up their crap elsewhere on the 100s of available blog sites. Or do a poll and see what the majority opinion is. Pete - Don's right. If we as mature adults cannot speak in an educated way without the "your candidate sucks" stuff then we need to either close it down or ban the discussion.

ooops, Eagle called it. I was describing the closed Renix system.

I have heard that some folks place the truck on an incline (nose pointing down) and pull the temp sensor (rear of block on drivers side) and allow the air to escape there while they add water to the tank. I'm sure there are other ways as well.

Of course, we're not supposed to be politcal here... :popcorn: I read about some of the debate, and got the impression that Obama was defensive the majority of the time. I guess that leads to: If he was to be president, how will he stand up to the blustering, posturing blowhard world leaders? Will he always be on the defense? I, too have a real problem supporting one who does not hold dear what we, as a nation, have sent good young men to die for. Whether you believe armed conflict is wrong or right - we still have national pride, and the president is one who should abide by it. Having said all that, I view the race as a choice between the lesser of two evils. just my .02

Yes, wiring for the cargo light is at the top of the driver's B pillar, pink I believe, under the plastic. and, yes, I'd like to see the pics as well, but I also believe it'll be disturbing to see that many MJ's rotting in the fall sun. :cry:

We have not had a problem here, even though the news screamed about how gas would be in short supply, and the price would skyrocket due to the refineries in Texas going down for the storm. The price here went from 3.56 RUG to about 3.70 RUG for a few days, now back to 3.60 RUG. Didn't matter much to me as I had about 140 gallons in the skid tank for the storm, and now have to pump it into the cars before it goes bad.

oooh a bed light would be wonderful to 70433. Also, a pair of rear speaker supports would even be, well, almost sexual!

If you have autocad 2004 or later, I can send you drawings of a metal warehouse with the support tubes drawn in. But, if you only have three feet....you'd best develop support on the inside (braced and jacked up against the ceiling/floor joists) and then rebuild the wall from there.

I am assuming that the side that is 'slumping' is on the 3 foot clearance side? :cry: You could have a person who owns a bobcat with the auger bit drill holes (from the outside) diagonally under the wall down to bedrock or supportive clay and then pump them full of concrete. Then, locate the poured beams inside the basement and place wooden beams vertically over them, using jacks to force those beams against the floor joists above. This will lift the sagging structure, and allow rebuilding of the wall in question. Depending on your local codes the vertical wooden beams could remain in place for support. Otherwise, if bobcat won't fit, you could drill them from the inside...but what a mess!

In Louisiana, especially over in New Orleans, we have problems with subsidence (earth moving away from the structure) becasue most areas are made up of 200 years of frog crap covered with 4 foot of topsoil. Almost all houses are on some sort of piling driven into the ground. Most of the time when the pile is first hit it goes down about 20 feet all at once - comical to watch. Where I live you can't drive a piling more then 10 feet before it stops, but even so we have some foundation problems. I have seen several solutions to what you describe, some not so pretty, some ok, and all labor intensive. I'll list them below. I have also seen a "This Old House" (Bob Vila) segment on repairing basement wall heaving, you'll have to search for that one as I can't find it with google right now. 1) Concrete support beams. This is acomplished by boring or tunneling down the affected side of the structure and creating a series of beams that vertically protect and support the structure wall. They extend below the frost line and are sufficent in diameter to withstand the push of the soil/rock around them. in severe cases they can also have a pre-cast concrete outrigger suppporting them at a 45 degree angle that extends into the direction of force. (pressure at the top creates opposite pressure in the middle). the inside wall is then braced horizontially across these beams and then rebuilt. Unfortunately, the tops of the beams are visible on the outside of the structure, and are unsightly. 2) Remote bulkhead. This is a sacrificial structure that is built 25 - 50 feet from the building that absords the land shift movement before it reaches the building. Of course, you'd still need to repair the existing walls, but with proper construction (including screw anchors that extend from the wall into the direction of the movement) you will release the pressure on the affected wall in the building. Think of a large rock sitting in the middle of the river - the current flows around it on either side with a completely still area behind it. This is used frequently here for erosion control and works best when the structure is downhill from the shifting forces. 3) Sand and/or concrete pumping. Where water is used to blast a channel to the slumping side of a structure and a concrete ledge is formed under it. After setting, the ledge is used to raise that side be forcing concrete slurry or sand under it. Works OK to restore origional elevation but would not stop the origional pressure / shifting problems, and you still need to repair the walls. As far as costs go, it will be expensive. One friend of mine hired a compontent foreman and then saved money by using illegals for the crew. He said they worked very hard and inexpensively. Depending on where you live that may not be an option for you. Perhaps you could see if one of the less expensive crews could stabilize the structure (outside braces) that wouls hold it until they can fit you into thier schedule? Good luck!

Have a good one dude. :cheers:

daymn that must hurt coming back out... :eek: You mean as an egg? Well no, I mean...they crap too, right? Jagged pieces might be a little harsh.

OK - Here goes: Enjoy! umm...might be hard on weak stomachs...

daymn that must hurt coming back out... :eek: