Akula69

I've never seen one of those either. Checked in the eleectrical manual and the only thing that comes close is if you have a 2.5L there is a connector on the harness for an auto transmission control unit.

I also have two sets Don, but mine are from an 89, and require the brake pedal SPST switch (as well as the controller, vacuum booster, lines, and harness connector).

Another way to test the starter is getting the current is attach a wire to the positive terminal and them briefly touch it to the positive terminal of the starter (don't hold it there!). Could be that the solonoid is bad on the new one.

Just changed mine - used the synthetic Dot 3-4 blend from Valvoline. I am still bleeding it however :ack:

I imagine it's got to have some shelf life, as the manfuacturer probably does not make the stuff to order. I wonder how they store it?

As I got help from Dezipped (thanks!) at his request I provide these pics of the repair of the multifunction stalk for MJ and XJ columns that have cruise and interval wipers. Once you know how it's done it really is easy - it just requires a certain amount of force in a specific area to seperate the parts. The removal of the stalk from the column is a straightforward process - you remove the steering wheel, horn assembly and lock plate (requires a wheel puller and lock plate compresser) then just grasp the stalk and firmly pull outwards until it releases, disconnect the plug on the wire end, and then gently tug the wire up through the column until it comes free. First, the victims. I had a spare stalk that I worked with first just in case I had a really epic failure. Most of these stalks have a black wire that runs the length of the shaft and exits through a small hole, this sacrificial stalk had the wire clipped off. As you can see, there is a small button in the end of the stalk. Take a knife (or other thin object) and carefully pry it outwards until it comes free. Under the button is a star-shaped washer (on table below my hand in this picture), which also needs removal, the knife or a pair of needlenose pliers works well. Now, to free up the sliding button assembly use a sharp knife and carefully pry outwards on the thin seam between the cone covering the switch assembly and the main plastic body of the stalk. the seam is located on the outboard side of the stalk just past the grooves that are cut into the plastic. It is glued on, but with careful, gradual force with the knife it will pop free. You can then gently pull the switch assembly free of the body for replacement or repairs. In this case, the switch has a little section of the wire attached. All the parts are shown below: Now, for my real stalk. In the picture you can see the long wire that exits the silver part of the stalk. I had to remove the switch as the wires had been skinned inside the handle and were shorting. A close up of where the wires exit the stalk. Once you have the end cone free it becomes a two-handed process - feeding the wire inwards from the end, and gently pulling outwards on the switch. An end shot showing the wire going into the shaft. The switch assembly. I simply de-soldered the wire and trimmed it until I was past the skinned spot as a new heatshrink cover would not fit down into the shaft. After it became known how to take it apart, the whole process (including soldering) took about 30 minutes. It is necessary to re-glue the cone back on the handle, I used some polystrene (plastic model) glue to do so with just the smallest dab on the mating surfaces, then taped it until dry. Hope this helps!

Yeah I agree...after Katrina the cable was down for two months...and Charter just kept on making excuses. We went with Dish and have had no problems so far.

Got the thing apart today without too much trouble. I really appreciate the heads up on how..I could not see the fine joint between the two plastic pieces (until I put the reading glasses on!) Thanks again. :clapping:

It is a little strange, but I'll get used to it after a while. Good job Pete :D

More pictures to follow! Got a good bit accomplished today...did the vacuum brake booster upgrade (from 89 to 96) and replaced the mal-adjusted tilt steering column and finished the floor shift conversion. Also finished the interior wiring harness repair and started the re-install of the dash. Discovered that the replacement dash had the small speakers installed in the knee panel...never saw them before. Installed the interval wiper moduls and headlight delay module, Put the blue 'buzzer' module in today...now the damn thing buzzes when the headlights are on whether the key is in the ignition or not...wierd stuff... old column The straight column shift link Where the link goes thru the firewall to the transmission The old straight column New floor shift plate Replacing the key cylinder in the new column Still have to solve the adjustment problem on the floor shifter (wants to stay in reverse instead of going into park) and need to find a way to rig the 89 brake light switch on the 96 pedal assembly (when brakes are depressed, the bnrake lights don't come on).

Mine is the typical saginaw multifunction switch mounted on the tilt XJ column. This switch has the interval wipers w/wash, and the cruise control slider in the top with the button recessed in the end. I have installed the column in the 89 MJ. Removal from column is easy, and you can pry off the button in the end. but seperating the black plastic wiper control from the shaft is what I can't figure out. The wires for the cruise run inside the shaft for a bit, then exit from a hole about 3/4 the way down. Unfortunately, two of the wires are skinned there, and need to be heat-shrink wrapped.

well crap...sorry about that.

Has anyone here tried to disassemble the multi-function turn signal stalk? mine has a seperated wire in the cruise control harness, and despite best efforts has resisted my attemts to take it apart. I have gotten it off the column, but cannot figure out how to get the plastic end off. Responses are appreciated.

The ones I did were not proper? :oops:

What Pete said, yes, but also: Depending on which option you choose, could not the design (manufacturing) flaw shown in the prop valve that was sliced apart effect your decision? See pic on second page here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4968&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=prop+valve&start=15 If you choose to only leave the line to the bypass, and the valve body is not fully drilled it will not get fluid at all. To check it would require removal of the prop valve and the piston, then inserting a thin rod in there to see if it goes all the way through. Is there a way to complete the drilling of this port without damaging the prop body? I suspect the neck on my press will not reach far enough into the throat of the port to complete the drilling, and a longer bit of that diameter would probably twist apart from the stress.

I don't know if the PM messages are working in here yet, so I'll post this out for the masses to see what everybody else has been doing about the vacuum booster upgrade / rear prop valve. First, I am (or so I believe) ready to swap my 89 vacuum booster and master cylinder with a 96 model. I was able to recover the entire assembly (including the proportioning valve and some brake line flare nuts) from an XJ. I also recovered the pedal assembly, switch and bracket, so I won't have any push rod issues. I know that some folks have determined they want to dispose of the brake adjusting valve at the rear axle in the MJ, but I really don't feel it is necessary to do so, as mine is functional and not leaking. After searching a good bit I read the numerous posts about the vacuum booster swap and this is usually accompanied with a section on plugging an outlet on the MJ prop valve. I will not be installing the XJ prop valve because of it's problems with restricting the rear braking power, but I'm confused about how to deal with the lines. This thread indicates the outlet should be plugged and shows one line remaining to the back (which eliminates the bypass line): http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4968&highlight=prop+valve Further research later I discover that others have indicated the bypass line should remain and be spliced into the main line going to the rear brakes. Has anyone spliced them, and how does this work for you? The only reason I can see to splice them is to overcome the fault in the MJ bypass valve boring (see thread above). Otherwise, the only way to not splice them is to remove the valve at the rear axle and only have one line. Thanks in advance!

The only comcern that I have with renting is that you are using your funds without building equity. The only problem I have with a trailer of a condo is that you might not be able to get your investiment back when you decide to sell. In any case you need to consider the neighborhood as well. Ask yourself: Would I want to bring my wife (girlfriend...or both :brows: ) here? Would I feel she'd be safe if she was alone here? Would I raise my children here? How far away is the nearest healthcare...nearest schools...nearest Church?

I don't know about the leaning...the 'pre-voting' opened here today. Most of the folks I have heard (while around town) have been speaking about the African-American reaction to this vote (as there is a much more diverse population here). There is a great fear that Osama Obama will not win, and what the black population will do in response. Then, to complete the irony, they speak about what they will do if he does get elected and doesn't provide for them and support thier programs. I'll vote for McCain, but I feel if Osama wins it will be more then interesting.

We have Dish - and I realize you said DSL would not be coming there....BUT I have researched the Satellite internet vendors, and have found them to be quite expensive. I have also been told that the signal is much more prone to interferance. The one person I knew that did have the Hughesnet recently switched to verison wireless (cell) cards, and loves it. Of course that would only work if you had reliable wireless service.

Unfortunately, it seems to be a win for GM due to the huge cash reserves that Chrysler has, and a win for Cerbus stockholders, as they would be able to (seemingly) reduce operating costs for both entities. GM has already gone on record they would not keep any Chrysler product line except for the van series, and in CEThomas' article they speak at length about closing dealerships and manufacturing plants. It would almost be like what GM did to Oldsmobile about ten years ago - cut them off at the knees. Of course, Chrysler/Dodge did that to AMC's Comanche a while back as well :roll:

Well, phpbb kinda looks like what Opus would do towards Steve (the comic strip), or: Image Not Found :cheers:

Very well done. Say....you do such a great job in all the projects you tackle....you wouldn't be up for hire to repair everything on my truck, hmmmm...? :D :cheers:

Yeah - its pretty easy but make sure you take your time and remember how each piece was arranged for easier re-assembly. Steps: 1) Remove negative battery lead. 2) Take lower dash panel off. 3) Loosen two nuts that hold the steering column bracket to the dash. You will also probably need to remove the left (driver's side) kick panel and loosen the bolts holding the stability bars that are also attached to the steering column bracket. 4) Look for a small (1/4 inch) rod that rests on the top of the steering column. This actuator rod is attached to the key inside the column and the other end actually operates the ignition module. There may be up to three rods, (the other two you might have would be one for the floor shifter, one for the high beam switch).This module is roughly rectangular in shape, the plug side faces towards the transmission hump, and will have two plugs inserted in it. 5) Carefully observe how the module and all associated plugs, screws and rods are attached, then remove them and replace in the same order. finis ! HTH :cheers:

You got another PM!

You got a PM