Akula69

Good to see ya back SW2... Beautiful kids....

Just one more thing....I finished the job and let the sealer I used set for 24 hours...then started it and drove about 1/2 mile. Got out and checked for leaks and found a single drop of new oil on the bottom of the bellhousing (approximately in line with the rear main). I was disappointed and thinking that I had nicked the seal during the install. I wiped it clean and drove on. Its been almost two days of driving now and there have been no more leaks. None. I even put a piece of cardboard under the car to check. Clean! :D My question is: could the oil I found leaked out because the seal had to 'seat' itself? (I believed they were sealing the moment they installed). Or, does the initial oil pressure 'move' the new seal into it's final position? Thanks

I kinda like the grey and the blue...

If it is the out-of-align power steering pump that is causing the water pump pully to squeal, could you shim the PS pump in some way? I mean. I know it has two bolts and a tensioner...but it seems by your explaination that the PS pump alignment is when the problem started.

Thanks for the responses - I was able to free the pan by putting a floor jack under the transmission and pushing it upward while my son stood on the axle knuckle. The combination of these two caused the pan to be able to slide through. I was actually pleased as there was no sludge in the pan for a 124K engine (but we've had this thing in the family since it was new). Now I have to loosen the last 2 or 3 crank caps to allow me to push the top of the rear main seal out. amsee - yeah I removed that before the initial post as I thought is was holding up the pan. Jake

I have been doing some extensive work on a 94 XJ. This vehicle is a 2WD, non-lifted Jeep that I am rehabilitating so it can be used at college (i.e. its far away and I want it to last a while). Today I started to change the rear main seal. I have faithfully followed all the steps in the various 'how-tos' that are here on this forum and elsewhere and it has gone smoothly up to the actual removal of the oil pan. :help: I have jacked up and suspended the jeep by stands under the frame, and removed the starter and all the oil pan bolts. The pan is free moving in the space it has but I cannot get the rear lip of the pan to pass below the front of the transmission bellhousing. It needs about another 1-2 inches. In order to drop the axle further I have disconnected the stabilizer links and swivled the stabo bar out of the way and disconnected the lower steering links (but not the steering link to the box). I have also disconnected the upper shock mounts. I cannot get this damn pan out and need to finish this weekend. Is there any other way to lower the axle besides removing the control arms? I was going to replace them but when I removed a bolt from the passenger side lower control arm apparently the axle is under such tension that I (a) could not get the other bolts out and (B) had to use a 2" strap and a come-along to pull it back into position to put the one bolt back. The only other bar under the front end seems to be a steering stabilizer that is somewhat 's' shaped and runs from lower left to upper right (where is fastens to the frame with a ball joint). I have disconnected the nut for that one but cannot break it free from the mount. Quick resposes with any ideas here are appreciated.

Cool. When they ask you for your bank information to make the deposit be sure and speak very clearly... :no:

Ah OK... a dog push-me-pull-you! :eek:

There's your answer. You didn't replace the forward main seal. [Exit ... stage left] LOL anyway - could it have something to do with the NSS?

(sigh) Yeah, I wouldn't have pushed her outa bed

Ah God...I was gonna say 'Burnt' :brows:

I believe Hornbrod did that mod - you might PM him

Got a Optima for the friend's boat. Worked well for about two months until Katrina. Evidently deep, long term submersal just was not one of the tests they do at the factory :no: I used to get the Diehards until one left me in the dark at 0330 one morning. Now, I just get the cheapos at Wally world. They last reasonable long, and the 'folks in blue' honor the warrenty very well! :brows:

hmm. I'd make them give you a set of stripes, and then sell them on eBay. :brows:

I know you want fitted, but I gotta tell you, I just went down to the carpet outlet and got 32oz commercial carpet remnant (for free) and installed it with 3M super 88 adhesive on top of the silver bibble insulation (see mfpdm's build: [http]) and it fit great. Best of all, it was cheap.

I'll be prayin for you Brent...good luck :cheers:

Like Pete says, the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) on the transmission can sometimes show its initial problem by causing the reverse lights to stop working. A good writeup to refurbishing it is http://jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp Jake

1) Check the gound - on the inside of the bed wall underneath. 2) Check the reverse lights - if they work then the ground and the NSS is good 3) Check the SPST switch that is attached to the brake pedal assembly - also that the wires are attached. let us know how these work out Jake

Hmmmm .....(counting on fingers) that doesn't compute Captain.

Genovast - I sure hope that engine core he turned in was junk (and un-rebuildable)....because 50.00 for the core just seems too low IMHO.

Thanks Pete

Has anyone tried the JC Whitney brand of window channel (rubber) replacement? It seems to look the same (in the pictures) and is reasonable in cost. I can no longer find the Team Cherokee version - guess they must have sold all of the $99.00 they had. :roll: Thanks

Yeah Willy - it will be painful as well when they turn it up... :eek:

Replacing it may not solve the problem...it is not really a factor of "new" or "old" in some cases. You probably would not want to seal the dist cap to the distributor, but you can test my theory by picking up a can of what is commonly called Contact cleaner at the auto parts store. This displaces water and evaporates (it usually contains a lot of ether). Next time the truck does this, pull the dist cap and give it a liberal dose...if it is condensation inside the cap it will be removed and the truck should start right up.

Condensation inside the distributor cap.