Akula69

Good pictures and a great job. I can attest to the difficulty in removing the top part of the seal, I was nervous about hitting it as well. I finally chickened out and loosened the next three caps and bumped the crank with a rubber mallet. When it dropped (slightly) the top of the seal practically fell out. Nice M715...I wish I had one!

Dunno about the Vikes - Saints match. It will certainly be dependant who can score the most, (and most often). I suspect that the Vikes will prevail, as the Saints could not handle the Cowgirls D line, and the Vikes seemed to puncture it at will. just my .02 though...I have been wrong once or twice :yes:

I have never seen such a concise post about the harness swap and differences - cudos to Wildman for that I have done it several times, as wellas renewing the old harnesses. I can't add a single thing.

Yeah - the Saints showed up! Now we're gonna see whos next...sorta like the story of the mouse in the bar after hours: 'He lapped up the liquor on the barroom floor and for the rest of the night all you heard was "Bring on your G##daymn cat"...hic...hic...hic'

Absolutely could be adapted for the front as well as the XJ light seals (I would need someone to get the XJ dimentions to me - Ralph is at school). The punch set goes from 1/8 inch to 2 inches, and can cut through up to 1/2 inch material (if you wack it good). The set comes with 27 punches, can be ordered from online tool sellers for about 49.99 (and up) and is called Grip hollow punch set. And, as I PM'd to one of the buyers, I'm not looking to make any money here - just cover the cost of the materials. I simply wanted to help us protect our $300.00 investment in our taillights. :chillin: For those who want them, I take Paypal and just PM me here with your info. I will mail them regular mail for about .75 (and put some cardboard in the envelope so they don't get crushed).

OK - here's the pics: The actual material sheet The origional seal Cutter Seal in cutter showing fit New Seal Height comparison I have tried them in the lights and they work very well, and are actually a better fit (more snug) when the scoket is inserted. Ya'll let me know if you want them by PM'ing me with your info. Thanks

1) I am not aware of any oil port on the shaft (or anywhere else for that matter) on our blower motors. I suppose you could drill a hole in the bottom of the shaft race to put a drop of oil, but (1) You'd have to remove the motor/shaft to do so and, (2) I believe they are sealed units. 2) Sounds like a CPS going bad.

I am in the process of making a new set of the six seals that keep the water out of our MJ tail lights. These seals go around the bulb housing and seal against the plastic itself. There are six on each truck, and they are 1 3/4 inches OD and 1 inch ID. I am making the replacement seals out of laminated close-cell foam that is mildew resistant and rot proof. I will post some pics if there is interest. I want to see if anyone is interested in buying the sets, I am flexible but believe that .50 cents per seal would be reasonable. Please let me know. PS: Mods - if this is in the wrong section please move.

Man - I have been wanting to add one of these to the UM since I got it: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=28 Just think of the time it'll save me! :clapping:

Yeah, I did. But I really believe that the refs were called together at the start of this season and told to 'let them play'. I have seen unbelievable fouls this season in many games that the refs just could not have missed (even the talking head announcers commented on them). In last season, everyone was whining that the refs were trying to turn the air yellow throwing so many flags....so maybe we'll see some balance in the foul calling next year.....

I'd buy it, maybe offer him 1800-2000 to reimburse him for his labor.

I had planned on removing the hood before the operation, and the MJ is 2WD, so hopefully the unit will clear the front without too much height. and I will be checking the timing and water pump when I get it out.

Don I agree - if the Saints don't 'show up' like they have not in the last 4 -5 games Warner will stonmp them. Like one of my team members said "They need a good dose of act right"

Don - No pics yet...but I will start soon. I've got a build thread in here somewhere but when I started this thread I had forgotten about it...so I suspect this will be the 'new' build thread. I have to find a new nickname for the MJ - maybe I'll just call it UM (for unscheduled maintenance, of course :clapping: ) Bob - I'm not sure but does the trans have a (lifting) lug on it? (or are you just wrapping the chain around it?) Jake

It was daymn cold here this weekend (just like everywhere else!) and very little got accomplished outside. Have the lift and the stand now and have ordered the engine leveler and plan at this point to pull the engine/transmission as a unit. Two questions though: 1) Has anyone done this easily, and what tips they have? 2) Does the tranny have to be drained first? I did, however, grind the broken studs off of the flare attachment plates and set them up with some nice new stainless steel studs (even did a couple of extra for grins and giggles). Will be stripping the multiple layers of old paint off the flares and prepping them for satin black finish.

:huh???: I've never had a standard, so I probably wouldn't know the part if I stepped on it. I would suggest that (knowing AMC) it probably just snaps into the console. Now, if you're talking about the surround that fits into the dash that the headlight pull handle goes thru, no...I don't have that.

The black one goes to the vacuum tank. the purple (or white) goes to the heater control valve. You can close off the heater control valve one if you have removed this valve and went with striaght lines. The black one should be joined to the vacuum coming from the manifold. You really don't need the tank unless you are either (1) running A/C (2) have cruise control (3) and/or like to hear hissing and the air doors opening and closing at odd times.

Mini console has just the console - no boot and the center is not present (so I believe it came from a standard). Headlight switch is complete with pull handle (fits throu hole in dash)

I got your headlight switch (10.00) and a blue mini floor console (5.00). Let me know. Jake

Take out the panel (and harness), repair the hole, install replacement fuse panel and harness. Oh, and fix the brake (or Clutch) leak.

Looking to buy a set of (movable) vent window seals. Let me know if you have any you are willing to part with. Thanks Jake

I guess it would have been useful if I had posted the actual milage, huh? It had 128K on the clock when the PO went in and installed new mains and a new crank, front and rear crank seals, (did not put in a new oil pump for some unknown reason... :dunno: ). The seals on the oil pan and the valve cover were done as well. I believe that the timimg gears/chain were done at the same time. I do need to replace the O rings on the oil filter adapter, and I am seriously thinking about the filter relocation mod that Hornbrod did. Otherwise, I need to check the water pump for play and have the radiator boiled clean. I do believe that I need to replace the exhaust manifold (and am trying to decide which one to buy). Never thought about the freeze plugs...I'll check on that. We plan to paint the engine and trans as well.

Slowly (Very Slowly!!) we have been getting the MJ closer to the paint booth. After this three day weekend we have removed the flares, installed Hornbrod's 97 XJ washer mod, re-aligned the drivers and passenger door hinges, removed the fenders and undercoated under them and inside, installed Mfpdm's door insulation upgrade, completely overhauled the engine bay and rear harnesses, and removed, sandblasted and painted the bumpers. Now, we have decided on the color and purchased the paint, so all we have to do is prime and block the body and remove the engine/trans so we can clean the engine bay (for painting). The entire interior will be removed as well. My question for the community is: If you were going to pull your engine/tranny what would you overhaul (or upgrade) while you were in that process? We no longer have the money for a stroker build (unfortunately) but its just as well as the engine was just gone thru about 12k miles ago. The trans was recently gone thru as well. As always, your opinion is appreciated.

I have no problem with an annual donation - as a matter of fact this is one of the only forums that I would do for. I agree with Pete that the forum should stay advertisement free...it gets really annoying having the ads scroll on the screen (of have a pop-up try and take over). :D

You said that you replaced the headlight switch recently...did you check the single ground wire that goes from the headlight switch harness to the dashboard? It fastens to provide the ground for the switch and all the lights up front (as well as the grounds in the inside front right (drivers side) fender. Secondly, if you pull the headlight switch with the vehicle off do you get the "buzzing" from the fuse panel? (if you replaced your seatbelt sensor with a more modern one it will buzz when the lights are on without the motor. Third, did you happen to install a headlight sentinal timer lately, and if so, temporarily remove it from the circuit and see if that helps. Lastly, (for the interior lights only) check your interior light door pins - they may be crushed and shorting out. Good Luck! :cheers: