Akula69

I had a similar experience to CW's and I will tell you how we are REQUIRED to handle it as a LEO: I was driving my mother-in-law's minivan (GASP) and a young guy with several girls in a Chrysler Sebring convertable saw the Handicapped plate and, probably thinking he was gonna have some fun at granny's expense roared up from behind and past on the driver's side at about 75 MPH in a 55 zone. I was going 55-60 MPH, and when he got in front of me he jammed on the brakes so hard he went sideways. After sufficently re-gaining my wits I got his plate and called it in via cellphone while following him at a safe distance. He saw me calling and became nervous, pulling into store parking lots and other places until the road unit arrived. When I got out he was hollering to the officer about how I was "stalking" him :roll: . I simply walked up, showed my ID and signed the citation as the affiant. There was none of this silliness of waving middle fingers or pulling up along side to compare penis length....just enforcing the law. I agree with CW, this guy he encountered was probably NOT a LEO but a security guard wanna-be or (worse) a private investigator who thinks he was the po-lice. I realize my comments will probably grate aginst the younger folks here in the forum, and I don't apologize for that. No one like to have restrictions on thier behavior when they are "having fun". But the fact of the matter is there really are some folks out there who have no clue how to act, and unfortunately one bad apple can spoil it (at least until I figure out you are NOT nuts) for the rest.

Geez - I can sure feel the love for law enforcement here :popcorn: In 13-plus years of law enforcement I have run into a few folks who have this very short sighted opinion. I always try to be fair and listen to opposing views, but I'll put it like this: While there are certainly individuals that are comissioned officers that should not be, by far the number that are honest folks trying to do a job outweigh them. Please remember that the next time you call 911 for assistance or do something else spectacularly silly that requires your upper-most appendage removed from your defecator. As a civilian, no matter how "John Wayne" your are feeling it is almost always a bad idea to confront an aggressor (unless you have no choice). As God has given most of us the ability to see and record the details of events that go on around us, it is far better to be a good witness rather then a possible hero....as it is very difficult to relate the facts to the police later if you are dead.

Thanks guys :cheers:

I think I'd be calling the Mac tools guy - the story alone should get you a new one at no charge.... :brows:

As requested - pictures of Ralph's rear end: And, one of Ralph (in the flesh): Just for grins and giggles, the MJ (in process for paint):

I have read all the dire warnings about using dana 35 axles, but cannot afford to buy a 44 right now, so I have to stick with what I have. It currently needs a RH axle shaft, but there are two different types depending on who made it. I have to be able to identify the particular dana 35 that is installed in the 94 XJ as either a Chrysler Co. or an origional Dana-Spicer model, and the daymn tag is missing from the body of the axle. Can anyone tell me another way to ID this POS? Thanks Jake

Funny that you mention the basement leak...I was talking to a company rep from the Python Corporation on Friday (they specialize in cement coatings to stop leaks and preserve cement products). Thier truck was blocking the road and some civilan complained...they were coating the inside of a concrete lift station. I'll call Jason.

I definately need a tailgate...Shipping might be sporting though..PM sent I rad somewhere that one person on here had gone to the local windshield replacement shop and was using those old shipping boxes for the tailgates...

Well, if you change the wording a bit, you could use the "ecoboost" motor that Ford is putting in the 2010 Taurus SHO ( :brows: :bowdown: ) BUT: It would not match a single tranny we have It would require a topper in the back to install all the wiring and sensors It would be front wheel drive :no: And 265 HP with dual turbos!

Thanks for the find - I can't seem to get the search function to work consistantly for me :oops:

Ralph the XJ has decided to show his azz again! Daughter states that the exhaust is "blowing a whitish smoke that smells sweet" and has done the 'white towel test' on the exhaust (there was no oil residue left on the towel). I suspect a small leak in the head gasket...the oil is not milky so I believe its just into the 6th cylinder at this time. My question is this: If I have to replace the gasket, do I re-use the head bolts or get new ones? and, Where does one get new head bolts? Ralph is a 5 hour drive from me. Is it recommended to drive it (at constant freeway speeds) if it is not leaking coolant into the oil? If I have to go and tow it back can I put the trans in neutral and tow it on a dolly (rear wheels on ground)? Thanks in advance Jake

I hate dead donkeys.... :roll: gj on the repair...

Ak - she does doesn't understand our humor...my wife asked me the same question and when she read the thread she just shook her head. :D

It really is hard to tell, but in the third picture it appears to be a cluster form a jeep that used an electronic speedometer (rather then a cabled one). I also do not see the receptacle for the second plug from the dash harness (should be to the right of the missing speedometer receptacle). If I had to guess I'd say this cluster came out of a 95-96 model jeep. What year MJ are you trying it in?

Ok - so they're not from a land rover or a porsche. But they are a direct, snap-in fit and can be turned off and on just like the OEM, are three wire, and (best of all) they cost 8.95 each. http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=4_179 Look at the third one down. I ordered a pair for each truck and they fit perfectly. They even came with new bulbs!

:agree: There are a few guys around that specialize in buying the 'old' stock of dealerships that have closed or are cleaning out the parts room, but they have become the exception rather then the rule. If you need to find a NOS item that you simply cannot live without let me know and I have the name for one of them. However, be aware that some folks have a keen knowledge of what these parts are worth :(

I took some time and looked at it a little closer. The damage is very similar to the 87 MJ (Junior) that I brought home a few months back. On it, (other then the external sheetmetal), the driver's side frame rail had to be pulled out about 1" and the whole front end had to be shifted to the driver's side approximately 1/2" to make the alignment correct. It's entirely doable but would take some time.

Man - I'd love to have it but the wife would have a cow if I brought another one home... :roll: It's only about 4 hours away from me too...

I used a stripping product by a company called "Bulldog" that was specifically designed for removing paint from plastic bumpers (and other plastic parts). It did not harm the flares, but was quite harsh on where I accidently splashed it on my bare skin. I then hand sanded them with 320 grit wet/dry paper. I bought the stripper at O'Reilly's Auto parts. It came in an aersol can and ran about $7.00.

I would suggest that you check any of the locations where you have worked in the dash area - meaning anytime you moved a dash component - as you might have pinched a portion of the harness. Failing that, remember that there are only three 'hot' wires in the harness that feed the radio: One is always hot (feeds that clock as well), the next is switched with the ignition (have you done anything with the column?) and the third is for the power antenna (if your truck had this option the relay will be on the heater core case about where the passenger could kick it and short it out). Finally, you might have had a momentary short that melted the brass receiver which holds that fuse inside the fuseblock. If so, its 'meltdown' could explain the remaining problems that have cropped up in the block. A sure solution would be to pull the dash (easier done then said - 8 bolts and it swivels) and trace the wires in the harness. If you found your problem - great - if not at that point a replacement interior harness/block it relatively cheap at the pick and pull (about 19.00 here) Good Luck!

Just a shot in the dark - but did you check the switch on the brake pedal (under the dash)? The emergency flashers on the column don't work either? that would be the flasher relay (fusebox). Also, there are several factory splices in the rear harness...you might need to remove all the wire loom to check them. They are easy to identify - the factory used grey duct tape to cover them. I have a thread in here on wiring 6 pole and 4 flat trailer plugs where I identify all the wires in the harness (I just don't have the link right now!), but yes, brown is for the tail lights.

The HVAC unit is not necessarily the culprit, it could be one of the vacuum actuators attached to the suitcase under the dash, or is could be the vacuum harness got pinched during the moving of the head unit for the radio. I agree with Eagle - most headlamp/turn signal issues are either corrosion, or a short in the front harness, or a ground issue. You said you accidently shorted the fusebox when changing the brake booster, in some instances you can melt the nearest ground when a short occurs...just something else to check. Good luck

No, mine do not come on.

Good job on the hunt and solution! Glad its going again as well

Hey - she named it, I just went along :rotf: I actually splurged and purchased a $54.00 set of ceramic pads that are coated with a neoprene backing so they are guarenteed not to make a sound. We will see, as she just pulled in about 30 min ago, and after inspection I believe the right caliper is toast. The new calipers do come with the slide pins, and for $54.00 the pads better have new clips :roll: