Akula69

Took the gas tank down today right before painting to pull the bed back. All the bed bolts came out fine, but all three tank bolts snapped. Where are you folks getting your tank bolts? or, are you substituting something else? Thanks

Wallpaper, huh.... :nuts: Police tend to be a little more intense on domestic calls because it is the second most dangerous type of call we go on (traffic stops are first). Usually someone goes to jail because (1) there is evidence of a physical fight and (2) someone is gonna be pissed that the police were called...and when we leave it only gets worse and we have to come back. I usually make one party leave and not come back for the night rather then go the jail route if I can, but in another jurisdiction a cop did that and the man came back and murdered the woman afterwards. You did the right thing by taking him to your house and defusing the situation.

As part of the rebuild of the Christmas Jeep I will replace the oil pump and the screen. I have read in several other forums where folks have pulled the diff and, using a cut off screwdriver, spun the new oil pump to prime it. I understand if the engine is being completely rebuilt why you'd want to do this, but as I am not pulling the head or flushing the engine of residual oil (I did drain it to pull it) would this be necessary? Could one just fill the oil pump with oil during install? Thanks

Looks Good!

LOL no, he never got his mitts on this one... ;) The truck was a southern truck for 90% of the time before I got it, but it had made several trips up to Mich. as well ( owner went to school at Mich State). Like Don says, they aren't that expensive. I'm gonna try the flame wrench and if that doesn't work I'll just cut the lines and replace them. Thanks

I am in the final stages before painting the MJ. As it is a total color change I am removing as much stuff out of the engine compartment as I can, and have encountered a problem. When I try to remove the power steering lines the nut will turn, but the line tries to turn with it. I have sprayed it with PB Blaster and lightly tapped it while trying to turn the nut but neither has worked. It is the upper one on the box, closest to the pinch bolt. Any ideas on how to remove it without bending or cutting it would be appreciated.

Pulled the engine and trans, finished the blocking and the wet sand. Will be applying the epoxy sealer and the finish this weekend. Will remove the cat before painting - I still like his color.... Still need to remive the steering column and various brake lines and charcoal filter line. I want to remove the power steering lines but the tubes are trying to turn with the nut...see my post in the tech section if you have an answer!

Dark shadow grey metallic

Have not updated in a great while...pics to follow. Been busy with all sorts of stuff. The MJ is close to final paint, did the wet sanding on the primer yesterday. As we want a total color change, the engine/transmission will come out next, then the bed will be removed. Hope to have the final color on by 04 july. Question on bed bolts - I know where they are and what size they are, but most folks that have removed them have had at least one or more snap off in the nut. I saw one member (Goblazers?) had simply welded a new grade 8 bolt to the nut and turned it into a stud...but how have the rest of you guys repaired that problem? Easy outs and heat? Drill and tap? Thanks

:clapping: :yes:

.......................You shudder whenever someone says C4C

I looked at the ones on Fleabay, then I went down to the local Autozone and looked at thiers. The thing that made up my mind to purchase the one from Autozone was the fact that it was shipped with a vacuum pulled (it was vacuumed and then sealed with caps). That way I knew for a fact I was getting a good unit. The extension tubes came with the one I purchased, but my compressor hoses (89) did not need them, so the extensions just unscrewed and I took them off. Good luck! :cheers:

Here ya go: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20578 :cheers:

Shoot, I'll do Rob one better, bring them down here and I'll give you 6.00 a month for them, and make sure all thier parts are (ahem) individually cared for! :brows:

Two, but would not mind some more parts! :brows:

I had to, and Rob is totally correct about the spot welds...I broke mine with a cold chisel.

'effin Moms. Rob L. :rotf: There so helpful ya know!

Hmmm...the fastenal office here in town (we used to have quite a bit of construction) has recently closed. I wonder if Rob is correct?

I did all 4 on my SHO - it was easy if you get the complete unit. All I needed was an air wrench and a BFH. :cheers:

Well, it was a 12 point 1/4 inch bolt. I got it with a (of all things - I had one) 12 point lawn mower ignition box end wrench :D Got the shafts out and seems to have quieted the noise for now. Thanks again.

Three little words: "Oh" + "My" + "Gawd" Centrifugal force? Centrifugal weights? And you were told this by a mechanic in a Jeep dealership? Man, that's one dealership you don't EVER want to let touch your vehicles. The Trac-Lok differential (it isn't "positrac," Positraction -- or "Posi" for short -- was a GM registered trade name) does use clutches, but there aren't any centrifugal weights. The clutches are pre-loaded by springs. The default condition is that the clutches are engaged. They stay engaged until/unless the torque difference from one side to the other exceeds a certain level, at which point the clutches slip and allow the differential to work as a ... differential. When the friction modifier wears out, the clutches should not make a grinding or crunching noise. There will be some banging/clunking going around low-speed corners as the clutches release abruptly. The purpose of the friction modifier is to smooth out the release so you don't hear that banging/clunking. "Centrifugal weights" ... Bwaahaahaahaahaa :rotf: :doh: :dunce: Woah Horsey! I just call them as I hear-em! I have no idea how the special crap inside this fat ball of gears works. I appreciate all the "schoolin" I can get ! Since I took the cover off yesterday and found no metal shavings, I tried to start on the axle shafts but this particular model does not have the 5/16 6 point bolt holding the pin in, it has some extremely small reverse torx head bolt. I have read that this particular critter is put in with red threadlocker, so I probably should not strip the head. Trouble is, no store around here seems to have the tool, so I'm back to square one. :headpop: Ah well. Thanks for the responses.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the axle has always been what I would call noisy...it has that positrac accessory that (as I understand it) has several clutches that use centrifigal force to transfer the traction from one spinning wheel to the other. It has clattered and made dull grinding noises before (especially before I added the additive!), mostly when making low speed (1-5 MPH) 90 degree turns. I spoke with a mechanic from the Jeep dealership here and he said "...it'll make those noises until the centrifigal weights wear out..." so I wasn't gonna get worked up about it. Problem is, the noise has gotten much louder...usually when it has been driven for a distance (couple of hours). I'm gonna get it warmed up tomorrow and try it on the stands again.

Now - the $100 question: When underway, a distinct "crunching" sound is heard from the rear. It can be heard from either side of the rear wheels. I believed it was the axle shaft, but now am not completely sure. The only other item I can add about this diff is that it is a positrac, and I changed the oil in it last August (w/o finding any metal in the old oil). I added the positrac additive as well. Draining it now I still do not find any metal in the opil, and the teeth do not look like they have been "chewing" each other. When up on the stands I do not get the noise. Any idea what it could be? Thanks

While this is tragic, it unfortunately happens all over the country. We recently had a similar type of incident here, but it was with a young officer who was off duty and had been drinking. When he approacheded a traffic check point for DUI he initally stopped and then (seeing the officers were his friends) sped through and crashed in a hairpin turn a bit further down the road. His date was severly injured (but will live without permanent damage) and he has been in a coma for the last three months. Just goes to show you that there are officers who make bad decisions, and I do not defend them. We can only hope that the really dangerous ones are discovered before they cause other folks harm. Here we have a similar setup...cameras in cars and mikes on our bodies that record all we say and do. Our Tazers have cameras on them so they record everything when we use them. Frankly I was against it at first as I was concerned it would cause the department to "witch hunt" folks that were not well liked, but as it turns out they have actually saved me a lot of grief from several complaints that were unfounded. The videos and audio are readily available to the lawyers and courts, and password protected so I cannot access them or change them.

There is a stripper for plastic bumpers that I have used on the flares with great success (although some of our flares had obviously been repainted in the after-market and had been primed with some strange purple primer that was quite difficult to remove :nuts: ). I cannot remember the exact name of the paint stripper but it was manufacturered under the brand of "Bulldog" and was specifically labeled for removing paint from automotive plastics. I bought it at O'Reillys Auto parts. It also turned out to be very effective in removing human skin as well :roll: