Akula69

Would be better if you let us know what the engine is, as different engines can produce similar sounds for different reasons.... a V-6 (for example) could have a ticking sound from the timing belt tensioner, or from a valve stem packing that was lose. an I-6 can sometimes have a ticking sound from the valve train when the oil pump pickup (or passages in the head) are fouled and not enough oil is making it 'upstairs' to the top of the engine. We need a bit more info to help narrow it down!

Were your brakes soft with the engine off, on or both? Firm with the engine off, but slowly sank to the floor when I started it.

I had a similar situation and worked with it for several weeks until I discovered one of the flares on the hardline on the prop valve had a crack in it that was leaking air.

Yeah - the 'plate applied for' is only good when you are transporting a vehicle back to get it titled. The only other option would be to trailer it home...and then a plate is not necessary. Almost forgot - You will need to get his signature notarized on the title and bill of sale - but a notary should be easy to find.

Do Not transfer your plates to the new car. If an officer idly runs the plate it will come back to a vehicle very different from the MJ. Here in Louisiana we tell purchasers to keep thier old plates (to show the officer if you get stopped) and have the person who sold you the new vehicle sign the title over to you (as you'll do for him). Get an signed bill of sale (which will basically read "for the value of one 19XX YJ, VIN number xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I (fill in the seller's name) transfer ownership of one 1992 MJ VIn number xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx to (purchaser's name)). Be sure you have your current insurance cards with you for the new MJ, and place a 'Plate applied for" sign in the rear window to get you back home. If you get stopped the bill of sale, signed title, and insurance card should carry you over. I f additional questions arise you can show the cop the old license plates as further proof.

Thanks. We haven't taken it on a long drive yet but I believe the cooling problems are solved (with the spring back in the bottom hose). We finished the visors yesterday and only have to put an onboard fire extinguisher (in the cab somewhere accessable) and a new radio/head unit (he's still checking them out to pick the one he wants). He'd like to convert it to 4WD but that'll have to wait unitl I get some more $$$$.

Almost done - we have to re-make the visors (after doing the headliner they just didn't look as fresh!) and get the seats re-covered (even though the covers on them actually look pretty decent). My son gets quite a few comments on it as he is driving it every day now back and forth to school, and we had it in a block party (car show) last Friday. Image Not Found Used the roll-on bedliner. It turned out pretty good after three coats. Refinished the interior to match the dash. The vinyl paint was suprisingly durable and easy to apply, (but I used an adhesion promoter anyway). Also, used the ACC carpet (ordered on Ebay) that they sell specificlly for our trucks. It was a good fit with about 3-4 inches of trimming around the perimeter of the cab.

I had a similar experience, and the post is here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25205&start=15 Good luck!

I would use a stand for the one that you plan on re-installing, and go to Walmart and ask them if you can have a wooden pallet to put the other one on (pallet makes it easier to get it up again if you need to move it). If you use a stand, be sure the base of the stand is not the old style (it's formed similar to the letter "T") but the newer style that looks like the letter "H". The newer style is a lot more stable, and has less chance of tipping. Good Luck! :cheers:

maybe even twice if they'll hold still long enough....

After some research, (thanks for the post on the Mustang spring) I found an exact fit spring for the MJ bottom hose. Unfortunately, it appears in a hose for a 1970 Chevrolet pickup, and NAPA carries the hose as part number 7580. Once you cut the hose open and remove the spring, it simply threads into the MJ hose from the small end without too much effort. It supports the entire hose except for about 2 inches from either end. THe hose will not collapse with it in place. After re-install the truck did not overheat as quickly but still got quite hot (almost into the red zone after 20 miles with AC on high...97 degree heat with 90 percent humidity). I believe that was due to two problems - I had not completely bled the system of air, and it needs a 2 or 3 core radiator. Thanks again for all the posts! :cheers:

Not lifted, 205/75's are standard. Drove it today after the flush and new antifreeze with a cooant additive (by Lucas products) that is supposed to make the fluid 'slicker'. Still tried to overheat at highway speeds, but nt as bad, and I got a lot more variation from the temp guage when the throttle was released at lower speeds. I'm gonna get the spring for the bottom hose and go with a cdi 3 row radiator. We'll see how that works out the problem. Thanks!

Very observant. That's your problem. Thanks, but what I was hoping for was to find out if others had suffered this problem, or if it was unique to me because I had put in an after market high volume pump (I knew the flattened hose was a problem 8) )

I have the stock electric fan (which sits behind the radiator)so I'm not sure how it would affect the airflow across the radiator fins. I don't have any items in front of the radiator (except for the condenser). I have checked the radiator tank switch and it does make the fan come on at around 220 degrees, even without the AC on.

I do not believe the old pump was hi volume. The new one is. To the best of my knowledge it is the correct pump. If it was not, wouldn't it be overheating at extended idle and in the city driving as well?

I have come to the conclusion that I will experience every single problem that can be experienced with a MJ. I had posted about the brakes earlier, but that problem has now been solved. Now....the problem Du Jour: Now, the MJ is overheating on the highway (only). It will not overheat at idle or in the city, and it doesnt matter if the AC is on or not, it will go about 7 miles and then be at 280 on the gauge. I have drained and flushed the system, and have replaced the thermostat and the water pump. Thermostat was checked before install. I have "burped" the system as well. I suspect that the high volume water pump may be the culprit, because the only thing that I noticed with the system was when I opned the hood after is was overheated and saw that the bottom radiator hose seemed flattened. When my son and I went through the engine we removed the upper and lower hoses, and I noted that the spring in the lower hose was falling apart (so I removed it). Now, when I check the parts stores I cannot find a hose with a spring in it. Does anyone have a source for the bottom hose with spring, or for a hose spring? I have even called Gates (supplier for the parts stores in this area) and they no longer manfacture a hose with a spring. Also, how many of you have retained the closed system but replaced the 1 row radiator with a 2 or a 3 row, and has that worked for you? as always, thanks for your replies!

Well, the problem turned out to be simple - the line on the front of the prop valve was tight, but there was a crack in the flare on the end of the line that was allowing fluid to escape and air into the system. Replaced the line and presto - good brakes! thanks for all the assistance!

Thanks, but after looking at the parts list it appears that I can use one from a 87 to 89 model, the 90 to 92 model prop valves are a different part number.

You mean no one has an extra prop valve?!?

Good point Rob...I actually went and checked. Yeah, they are right. Yeah that was the order. I then bled the load sensing valve and did them all again.

Am looking for a new prop valve (or operating used one) Thanks Jake

Have been having trouble with the brake system. I have replaced the pads, calipers, master cylinder, booster, and have cleaned out the front prop valve (but could not get the valve body out no matter what I tried). I have bled the brakes 10 times and still get a spongy pedal when I crank the jeep. I bench bled the master cylinder before install, and have put a pressure bleeder on the MS tank while cracking the screws on the prop valve to let any air out. The brake light (dash cluster) comes on when I press the pedal hard. I still have my (operable) load sensing valve in the back, and have bled it as per the shop manual. The only item I have not replaced is the prop valve, and I cannot find a new (or rebuilt) one anywhere. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Jake

I do not know about the engine grounds - someone with a 2.8 will have to chime in on that. The dash and body ground locations and the front harness should be the same however.

There is a ground under the dash (directly under the headlight switch) that is important for the dash lights. You might also want to check the front light (headlight, marker and turn lights) in the front end for corrosion and connectivity. Finally, you need to check the ground behind the driver's side taillight for corrosion. Failing that it could be the headlight switch, but I've not had one go bad. Search the forum for 'Electrical manual' - a guy posted one here in PDF form. Good Luck

The instructions that came with my IAC said I had to drive the vehicle for several minutes at above 40MPH for the ECM to reset the IAC inputs. Also, I had an air leak in the manifold to brake booster hose. Good Luck! :D