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How did your brakes feel before you replaced the front lines? They were getting spongy (old soft lines and a pin hole leak in the FL hard line) Did you bleed everything (including rear) until new fluid came out? Yup, the system was been flushed until clean. Did you bleed them in the order you listed them? (RR, RL, FR and FL) Yes How firm does the pedal get with the engine off? If it just feels as it normally does when running, it's not enough. It should be stiff enough you can barely push it down with the engine off. The pedal is firm when the engine is off but once it is running, the go to the floor pretty easily.

Were your brakes soft with the engine off, on or both?

I replaced the front hard and soft lines and flushed new fluid through the system. The brakes are strong until the engine is running. I did a search and read about bleeding the master cylinder. I made hard lines to loop from the outlets back into each compartment. Pumped the brakes until no air came out, connected the master back to the prop block and bled all 4 points again (RR, RL, FR and FL). I still have no brakes with the engine on. Did I miss a step or is there something else going on? (BTW, I checked for fluid leaks all around and fixed one on the bottom side of the prop block and bled again) Any ideas? :mad: **edit** We pulled the master cylinder while changing the lines because we could access some of the fittings. I reinstalled it just as it came off.

Glad to find another CC member on Hearth.com. The build is looking good. Where did you get a $25 tool box for the bed?

Was it seasoned or green wood? Man, that's a lot of wood. Did you use any helper springs or air bags?

Here's my truck hauling a 1/3 of a cord: It handled better than I thought it would. Need to add some airbags in the back but it did well with out.

I'm replacing the idler pulley when I get home and hopefully hitting the JY this weekend.

The front bolt was loose. The idle is much better now. I should have thought about that. My old Honda CB350 had bad leaks around the intake boots. :doh: I got wrapped up in the idea of a vacuum line issue. Thanks guys! :bowdown: A few test laps around the neighborhood and it's running well. Now I can get back to the wiring issues!

On another thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21523&p=222210#p222210, I thought I had found a vacuum leak at the brake booster. I plugged the vacuum line today (and replaced the check valve) but the engine is still idling high. I cleaned the IAC sensor and the throttle body, so I don't think those aren't the issue. Is there another vacuum line to check? :hmm:

I've got a grocery list for the Junk Yard now! Looks like I"ll pick up a '95 ZJ box while I'm getting the XJ steering box. Thanks for all the help! :D

You can turn the steering wheel side to side w/o getting movement from the wheels.

Thanks guys! Looks like I'll be swapping in the double diaphragm booster once ye olde tax check comes in. A new booster and rotors/pads should greatly improve my stopping ability! While I'm under there might as well track down the cause of the play in my steering wheel. Do you think a junkyard booster is a safe bet or should I go with a remanufactured one? This board is a life saver, you guys are packed full of great info. I've been on other auto/bike boards and found a lot of people that weren't very helpful or had the "if you have to ask, you shouldn't be doing it" attitude.

Bingo! Thanks for the tip! Looks like I'll be getting a new booster. Is there any (like off a ZJ) that would be an "upgrade"? After I found that plugged line, I decided to check all the vacuum lines once the weather gets a bit warmer. Little too frosty to be yanking on rubber hoses in my unheated garage.

My truck was idling pretty high (not sure of the rpm, no tach), so I searched the forum and found the info on cleaning the IAC. Cleaned up the sensor, cleaned the passage and gave the throttle body a good bath. It's still idling high. Bad IAC valve or maybe a vacuum leak? The RPMs increase when I press on the brake pedal. I found a plugged vacuum line going from the EGR to a metal disk shaped doohickey that is attached to the driver side below the top of the throttle body.

I'll put new problems in a new post, sorry about that! Used to doing updates like that on a motorcycle forum. Looks like I'll pick up some bulbs and sockets and see if that solves the remaining issues. Thanks for all help! At least it's on the road in time for the snow. :D