Akula69

I've got two or three spares of the HVAC 'suitcases' out in the trailer but it would cost a fortune to ship them (weight and size). I can get them at the Pull-a-Part for $32.00 complete...do you have access to one up there?

I don't know what the economic conditions are over there in Texas right now, but if they suck as bad as they are here in Louisiana you moght be able to pick up a quality used lift for little or nothing (assuming you have the ability to remove it and transport). One of my friends was able to get a lift for less then $1000.00 from a closing dealership. He went in and inquired and they told him he could buy it if it was removed by a certain date. Think closing dealerships, auto repair shops, and older full serve gas stations. You might also want to check the auction houses in the area for deals. Good Luck.

First one is the positive lead under hood light. Second one is the cruise control subharness (provides pulse rate). The third is one I haven't seen except on the sub-harness that comes up from the transmission (not AW4). I have never seen a corresponding connector for it.

Year / Make / Model 1989 Comanche Pioneer Engine/Trans/Transfer Case/Front Axle/Rear Axle/Wheelbase 4.0L/AW4/None/Solid/Dana44/120" Build Date: 10/89 Location: Marrero, La. Status: Currently at the Pick-n-Pull in Marrero (as of 12/2010) Notes: This truck was found in the yard on 10/2010 with the tailgate and the interior dome lights removed. It was a Virgina truck based upon the paperwork in the glove box. I salvaged most of the rest of the truck including the rear flares, cargo light, interior and engine compartment wiring, engine sensors, dash, tail ights and front cap.

Year / Make / Model 1989 Commanche Base Engine/Trans/Transfer Case/Froint Axle/ Rear Axle/ Wheelbase 4.0L/AW4/None/Solid/Dana44/120" Build Date: 6/1989 Location: Covington, La. Status: Total rebuild completed on 8/2010 Notes: Someone swapped a set of Metric Tonne springs into this truck before I purchased it. It was origionally sold in Marrero, Louisiana and has remained in Louisiana since. Currently a daily driver by my son. Image Not Found

Year / Make / Model: 1987 Comanche Base. Striped as a 'Sport Truck' tan with a tan interior. Engine/Trans/Transfer Case/Front Axle/Rear Axle/Wheelbase: 4.0L/Aw4/None/Solid/Dana35/113" Build Date: 12/1987 Location: Covington, La. Status: Currently under rebuild (approx. 50% complete) Notes: Nothing special about this truck except it was origionally sold in Duluth, GA and wrecked there in 3/2007, sold as salvage to State Farm and then purchased by me in 2009. It was re-titled in Louisiana as a re-built vehicle in the same year.

It should just pull out...but if it simply refuses to budge you could try a very small amount of PB blaster. Think about spraying the PB into a small cup and then using a toothpick to drip it onto the connection.

:agree:

Congrats!

There are also some hose routing changes (i.e. - elimination of the hoses that go to and from the closed system tank) and a slightly different heater valve assembly (which you can get from the donor vehicle). If you choose, you can eliminate the heater valve assembly entirely (by using straight hoses to and from the heater core) but remember to cap the vaccum line if you do so. You might also want to check and/or replace your thermostat in the process, and flush the cooling system.

It's a 5-speed. I've even tried to start it in neutral, nothing different. Tomorrow I am going to change out the ignition switch and see if that does anything. Had the same problem with my daughter's XJ and it ended up being the ignition swithc. Good luck.

Hmmm...all the4.0's that I have had have never had a stud or a bolt in that location...On the last rebuild (son's MJ) I just ran a tap into it to clean the threads and then installed a 1 1/4" grade 8 bolt with a lock washer. No problems so far. I agree with the E-Z out warning - it is a biatch getting those things out if they break off. Take your time and go realllly slow on the pressure.

LOL Yup, until daddy comes clean with the NCAA :popcorn: And, I only wish my interiors looked that clean...you have a great lookin truck Don. :yes:

:rotf: Yeah, well he probly likes me even less since Alabama came to visit LSU.

OK - we bit the bullet and decided to go with the Seafoam. The decision was made for us based upon the fact that it has gotten cooler here, and we recently replaced the stock single core radiator with the 3 core CSF model...both things conspiring to make the initial oil pressure at start-up be about 80+ PSI abd stay there for what seemed to be a long time. Before the new radiator and in warmer weather it would sit at 70 PSI at start and after the warm-up it would idle at 25-30 PSI, and under RPMs it would sit at about 60 PSI while using dino 10-40W oil. Sunday, we started her and after warm-up we added 1/3 can of the Seafoam to the vaccum line at the brake booster and then shut down for 10 minutes. At second start-up it smoked like a demon but quickly sunsided, and ran much smoother! We then added the rest of the can to the crankcase and drove it for 10-15 miles. Came back and changed the oil HOT (daymn that smarted through the gloves!) and new Bosch filter - oil was pitch black in color. Re-filled with dino 5-30W and parked. Next morning at cold start it was 70 PSI and after warm-up it was 25-30 PSI at idle. :yes: If necessary I will repeat the procedure, but if the pressure starts to build again I may step down to the dino 0-30W or go with a 5-20W. If it improves too much I will mix the 5-30W and the 10-30W to maintain the hot idle at or above 20-25PSI to avoid engine failure. Oh, so far there are no leaks and thats a good thing. :D I will pull the pan this next weekend and check for screen debris.

I have a back carpet panel - PM me for details.

Last two times I bought from this guy the parts were junk (or arrived broken) and he would not honor the warranty he offered. His "final" offer to honor the warranty was for me to pay to ship the part back to him (after I had paid to ship it from him to me) and then he would "see" about a refund of the purchase price only. I would have been out about 35.00 more on the deal. :headpop:

The ground for the accessories is down on the lower driver's side of the dash under the headlight switch. Check that, as well as the tightness of the grounds by the fusible links. Check the fuel pump ballast (driver's side fender well by the air box). Make sure both wires are attached. If you are undertain it is good, make a short jumper wire and connect the two leads. Also - check for fuel - the gauge can sometimes be wrong. The two rods are for (1) the ignition switch and (2) the high beam headlight switch. The "spring-loaded" white switch you speak of is the high beam switch. make absolutely sure both ignition switch plugs are fully inserted. Check for spark at the coil by using a spark tester (do NOT pull a spark plug and lay it on the valve cover unless you want to light up your life!). Pull distributor cap and check for moisture inside and carbon deposits on cap and rotor. Check stator is not too rusty (however - if you are getting spark at the coil then you're getting spark at the plugs) Let us know about these things and then we'll go from there. Good Luck!

When we rebuilt my son's jeep we ended up removing all the items that went through the firewall (including the plugs that just covered the extra holes) and then sealing them with black RTV when we put them back. That solved 99 percent of the leaks, but there was still a small leak and I suspected that the pinch weld inside the windshield wiper motor housing was leaking as well. A little more RTV and so far no more leaks! I have to say, we never did figure out exactly what was leaking...the leaks were probably starting in one spot and then running out somewhere else (where we found them). When I say we removed everything from the firewall, I mean even the steering column and the brake booster as well. Good Luck!

Bare steel is OK if you want to, but you will have to reproduce the E-coat somehow (the anticorrosion coat) that was applied at the factory. A better way is to sand the truck until smooth (filling or raising low areas) and then apply an inexpensive epoxy primer. The E-P will "seal" the old finishes and give a nice new surface for the new paint to stick to. The E-P is a two stage paint that will not add any signifigant time to the job, but you really can't sand the vehicle afterwards - just apply the finish coat. Good Luck!

I'd look like a tool showing up in a church at any time. I'd be afraid the building might fall down. :eek: But thanks for the reminder. :thumbsup: :no: I'm not a Bible thumper Don, but I know that God will always welcome you back.....

I wanted to visit this toipic again as it has been several years since anyone has talked about flushing the oil passages in the Jeep engines. While there was one post that talked about it, the jury was evenly hung with 2 for and two against. The folks against talked about the gunk and accumulated build-up fouling the oil pump pickup screen, and generally perdicting doom and gloom. The ones for had said it breathed new life into the engine and they got better performance all the way around. I am considering using one of the products on the market (I have certainly not chosen - so if someone wants to tell of thier experience that would be great) like Seafoam or the AMSOIL engine flush. All the 'flushes' instruct you to warm the engine and then add the cleaner...then run for 10 minutes and immediately drain. (Similar to warming the engine to suspend the debris and then draining the oil). I have also had folks advise to drain about 1/2 a quart of the existing oil and add a similar quantity of kerosene, then run the engine for 10 minutes and drain. Some searching on Google indicates that it is more effective on lower mileage engines for fear of the seals failing. or allowing new leaks due to crud-covered seal failure points being 'cleaned'. If any of you folks have done this please chime in, as I am looking for opinions here. Thanks!

Wade - the silver cannister that is attached is the vaccum actuator that moves the valve inside the plastic fitting. The valve controls the water flow to the heater core. Like Pat said - cut off the metal pipe just past the black plastic, and stretch the hose to re-connect. Plug the vaccum hose and be done with it. You can get a replacement from Auto Zone for the heater control, but you do not need it.

Truly a damn shame. I suppose even with the low miles he could have gotten some salt on it that hastened the rust process.

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