Akula69

On Saturday we went back to the MJ located in the New Orleans Pull a Part and among other items we were able to get the speedometer gear out of the transmission. Yesterday we tried to install it in my son's MJ but were not successful - it would not engage the worm gear (even though the tooth count and all other dimensions appeared the same). We test drove it several times to confirm the speedometer was not operating with the replacement gear, but then re-installed the origional gear. When done, we noted strange engine behavior after the truck warmed up. When in idle, everything seemed nornal. When driving the truck would travel about 45 seconds (at any speed) and then the RPM's would suddenly start surging up and down, the engine would bog down an appear to run extremely rich, and then after 10 seconds of this behavior it engine would die. None of this was happening before we fooled with the speedo gear. The truck would re-start immediately, behave for about 45 seconds and then repeat the process. If I shifted into neutral when it started it would sometimes calm down and idle normally at around 700-900 RPM. If the brake was held (no forward movement) and the truck was placed into gear it would wait the 45 seconds and then go nuts again. I believe this is a sensor input error to the ECM, but please correct me if I am wrong. My question is, could this be a result of the truck being driven without the correct gear? and, (if previous question is true) does the TCU need to flashed somehow or could it be toast? In the searches I ran on this I found no posts but did noted some other folks had 'flashed' thier ECM by removing the positive wire and touching it briefly to the negative post. Could I have confused the ECM? Thanks in advance. Jake

Congratulations!

Its a Pull a part, and they don't have an available phone number - only a voice mail message that tells you where they are.

Yes, I agree on the thermostat comments - I suppose I should say that I am guessing about the actual temp - looking at the gauge I am seeing the needle between the mark above 100 and below the 210 mark. Its about in the center of that range, and pretty much stays there. Before, the needle would run right up to the 210 mark and hover, and when I hit the highway it would sprint up to the 260 - 280 mark. I can tell that the thermostat is opening because the upper hose starts out cold and after about 5-10 minutes at idle it gets warm, indicating the 190 degree 'stat I have installed is actually opening (or is stuck open... :eek: ). I'm gonna check it to ensure correct operation. Thanks guys.

Picked up a 3 core csf all metal radiator on Monday and installed it today. After 'burping' the system I drove it about 35 miles on the highway and it never got above 150 degrees on the gauge (ambiant temp outside was about 70 degrees) I think I got it! :cheers:

Almost perfect SB here in New Orleans...sorry, I know its a little far away....the yard wants $158.00 (bare)

rms = rear main seal.

I hope that all is well with him and your sis. Congratulations!

My '87 has the same tag, but it was mounted on the crossmember below the radiator. The '89 had a tag, but it had clearly been removed and replaced, because it was being held on by two phillips screws...

I recently replaced the axle shafts in a Dana 35, and in that process I also replaced the bearings and seals. The instructions that came with the replacement axle shafts indicated that the double-lip seals were to be installed with the flat side of the seal (the non-cup side) facing outward. Although I have installed most all seals in the past with the cup-side facing outwards, I dutifully followed the instructions and turned it to the inside. Yesterday when I rotating the tires on the jeep I noted the seals are pissing diff oil all over the brake drum and shoes. I either installed them incorrectly or damaged them during install...I have not had time to check with one is the case....but my question for you guys is this: If you have replaced the seals, did you put them in with the flat side outwards or the cup side? Thanks Jake

Thanks for looking - found one in the JY. :clapping:

Bouncing free and

....which then exploded....

God Bless it, I'd buy it if I was not 2 days away! :yes:

My son, with the eagle eyes, was able to make out the VIN on the door. 1JT7PT36LLKL446902 It translates to: 1 - US J - Jeep 7 - Truck P - Not found, but is the GVWR T - Cherokee 2WD (?) 3 - Pioneer 6 - Not found, but body style L - 4.0 liter I6 L - Check digit K - 1989 L - Toledo Ohio Plant 1 446902 - Sequence number

Found an 89 MJ in a yard about 50 miles from my house - the first I have ever found here in a yard in the metro New Orleans area. It was a maroon Pioneer model. I spent about 2 hours pulling parts from it. I was excited to find it did have a D44 rear axle...but evidently it is this yard's habit to drain the fluids by punching holes in the housings. :headpop: I pulled the cover and the residual fluid drained out but one of the teeth on the gears had been broken by the tool they punched it with. I did not have anything to write with so I took pictures of the VIN...they did not come out. Tailgate was missing, but I got the tail lights, the cargo light and switch, the emergency brake assembly, the rear flares, the TPS and the IAC, the rear bumper license lights and harness, and the fuel pump and sender. I also got the carpet panel behind the seat, which is maroon. Some of these items will be for sale at a later date (I'll post a different thread). I need to go back and get the front and rear bumpers and header panel. If I can get there before they cruch it, I'll write down the VIN as well.

Looking for a complete sending unit for a shortbed commanche. Having a working pump on it would be a plus! Thanks

Yup, Ralph it is. And you are right - no clutch master cylinder. Fuse panel is the same location, and I have done the master cylinder/booster upgrade approximately 2 years ago. Fortunately, she knows how to check her fluid now, and she has confirmed it is not leaking. Good point Don, I had ran my cable directly as well. I called her and had her check those connections (boy was she upset about laying on the ground!) and they were OK. One thing that I was thinking about was the ignition switch (on down the column). Does it not contol all the power distribution to the items in the cab? (but it still doesnt explain the headlights....) Thanks

I realize you guys have heard this story before, and I appreciate your responses to this one that has me stumped. My daughter's 94 XJ has all of a sudden started to act strangely. None of the electronics in the cab work - no radio, no AC, no interior lights, no emergency flashers, no dash illumination, no turn signals, no key buzzer. Outside, the lights do not work. However....the car starts and runs fine without problems. I was up there about two weeks ago and drove the XJ all around town for two days without any problems at all. Three weeks before that I replaced the battery and ran all new 2/0 wire for the positive and negative leads in the engine bay (all of them). She told me she was driving it to the local store and all of a sudden the AC and the radio quit, then the rest of the symptoms occurred one by one. She has checked the fuses and found them to be OK (I recently replaced the fuses with the new ones that glow when they go bad). Any ideas would be sincerely appreciated.

Thanks guys, but it was never my intention to 'adjust' the needle on the gauge. Once I determine the exact gearing for the rear end I'll use the handy charts here in the post to find the right gear. Having a radar in my unit helps considerably, and Eable is absolutely correct about the differential speedometer difference. At 15 MPH indicated, the radar reads about 19-20, but when he shows 35 MPH on the gauge he is actually going at about 45. If I can't get one that reads really close, I (once again) agree with Don, I'll go for one that reads a little higher then actual.

Congrats dude!

Thanks fpr the replies. I'm gonna have to determine which gear to get, and the info is all there. I shook the truck like a wet dog (from the left rear quarter panel) and the gas gauge started woking again. I guess the float was stuck. I really don't wanna mess with it until I can secure a replacement (in case I mess up!) Thanks again.

The autozone warrenty is for 3 months if you only replace the compressor, and 12 months if you replace the expansion bolck and the accumulator/drier at the same time (they all have to purchased on the same ticket). I went with the compressor from them, and have had no problems yet.

In the 89 MJ, two problems have occured: The speedo needle wobbles at lower speeds, (and according to my radar it is about 10 MPH off slow) without having changed tire size or having any lift on the truck. The trans and diff are what came with the vehicle. Speedo cable is new. I realize the speedo gear is probably the culprit, but can there be another reason? Where does one get new gears? How do you choose which one to get? The gas gauge is pegged full right, and was previously working properly. Truck runs great, has 40 PSI at the rail. Ground at left rear is good. If it is the sender (have not yet checked OHMs yet) where does one get that item? Thanks

Transmission cooler line. Trace it back to the trans to see which one it is. Remember to get the quick disconnects from the parts store as well, (or cut them off and use small hose clamps).