Akula69

Geez Don I must have been out to lunch on this one as I had not seen the thread until now. I'm sorry I didn't chime in sooner, but the fact that the pads are slightly different comes as news to me as well. In any case I'm glad it worked out for you. It is timely that is came up though, as my daughter told me the Firestone guys (that check her car before she comes home from college) told her the RF caliper was intermittently sticking and they wanted (are ya sitting down?) $788.00 to replace the calipers, pads, turn the rotors and bleed the system. Needless to say I picked up new calipers, rotors, soft lines and pads today and will be changing the lot this weekend.

This man would be correct! There is a slight length difference and the cabin end of the cable is terminated differently if you have cruise control.

I have the long visors, thanks!

For some reason the pick and pull down here as a lack of below 1995 XJ's and no MJ's at all right now. I am trying to gather some parts for both MJ's at once: 1) Passenger side remote manual mirror...in black. I also am in the market for a set of 97-99 manual mirrors for the 89 MJ. 2) Electric fan...for the 87 but can be from 86-89 years. 3) Door checks...prefer the 91-96 version with the rubber stopper but can use the older version. 4) Floor shifter handle. The black plastic "T" from the 86-94 years. 5) Grab handle. The handle above the passenger door frame. Looking for the sand color or light grey. 6) Visor center clip. The small plastic piece above the rear view mirror that holds the visor ends in place. Also in the sand or grey color. Please let me know if you have some of these items you want to 'part' with. Thanks!

I'd start with the starter relay and the fusible links that are attached to it (these are the majority of the fusible links in the truck). Failing that, the alternator stator might be fried, and unless you know a really reputable re-builder, I'd go with a new one. Now would also be a great time to replace all the positive battery cables with 2 AWG ones, as thier probably needing it as well. Good luck

I can't think of a better guy to "oversee" the legacy that this gentleman left behind then you Automan. It is a shame in a way that none of us will be able to take anything from this world with us (but perhaps our memories), but I am sure that this man left us happy...doing exactly what he loved. I would love to be there with you to walk thru, but sadly I cannot. Please do not let any of this collection go to waste.

Also, a floor jack with a 2x6 clamped to the lifting plate is really useful in helping hold the new door into position while re-mounting the doors :D

I took a small hard rubber hammer and tapped upwards along the outside bottom edge. It eventually came off, and I discovered it was held on by a series of small metal clips. The trim was not damaged, but the clips were destroyed by my removal technique (but I am not putting it back on anyway).

Typically you can use any sandable, lacquer-based primer. I used the Rustoleum brand for temporary cover (less them 4-6 weeks). When you repaint with a new color, the advances that have been made in paint composition will almost require you to use an epoxy sealer to cover the entire vehicle's surfaces that you will repaint. This not only seals the old finish away from the new paints, but can also provide a good surface for the new finish to 'grip'. Two warnings though: You cannot sand an epoxy primer as you can other primers and retain the sealing qualities, and some (like the PPG Deltron line) REQUIRE you to apply the finish coat within the 10-15 minute flash time of the eposy primer application (or the finish coat will de-adhease). You will need approximately 1 gallon of (before mixing) of finish coat. A general rule of thumb is: 2 quarts of epoxy primer and hardner 1 gallon of base coat color and reducer appropriate for your temp conditions 1 gallon of clear coat, 1 qt of hardener and 1 gallon of reducer 1 gallon of wax and grease remover POR15 quantity I can't answer, but based upon what you want to cover I'd say 4 quarts. Good Luck

In the painting I have done, I hove found that (like others have said) experience goes a long way towards a good job. There are a number of different things you must do, preferably in order: Decide what type of paint you will use (after examining the pros and cons of each type), deciding where you will paint the vehicle (which will also play into determining the type of paint you choose), getting the right equipment (a hvlp gravity feed gun is best, and will require at the MINIMUM a compressor with 9-14 CFM for proper application, a breathing system or mask to keep you alive), and proper preperation using hand sanding and sanding blocks. Most of this stuff you seem to already know, so I won't labor on the specifics (if you want you can PM me and I'll try to answer the specifics you might have). I can buy the PPG Deltron two stage (base coat/clear coat) paint and a good epoxy primer/sealer for about $700.00 (enough to paint a full size XJ or MJ) so the guy you talked to is either blowing smoke or there is a lot of body work to be done on your truck. Good luck!

The truck is a early 87 model, so the 88 ECM should be great. I only need the shifter to trans cable, not the interlock cable. PM sent.

Two other common problems (with turn signals) that I had were: 1) Corrosion at the connector between the engine bay harness and the front light harness. 2) Turn signal cam in the column was bad (Autozone sells the replacement in the 'Help!' section of the store - 2 cams for $9.00) Good luck!

Year? :doh: I suppose that would help, huh? 1987 I am always forgetting something....

I am in need of a floor shift cable, the one that runs between the floor shifter and the auto transmission. I also need a ECM for a I6 with the AW4 (auto transmission) Thanks!

Congratulations!

Learn something new every day! Thanks Pete

Bump (to keep in my posts for reference)

Found the link for the CPS patch harness Tech Bulletin: http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/CPS-87-90-update.pdf

Junior (my 87 MJ) is aGeoriga 'salvage' titled vehicle. When you get the title you get a real title that has salvage typed on it in really small print. In Louisiana I will need to have it inspected and then the state will issue a new title that will still be shown as a 'salvage' title, but the vehicle will be titled and road-worthy.

The reason for the long cranking time is the crankshaft position sensor, or CPS. It is a magnetic device that "watches" for gaps on the edge of the flywheel and reports back that information to the ECM. There is little you can do to make the cranking before start shorter, but if it seems extensively long (more then 8-10 seconds) you might want to replace it with the factor upgrade (where the wires from the CPS plug directly into the ECM rather then send the signal through the harness. I did the 'fix' on my son's 89, but unfortunately I cannot find the link for it. The sudden spike in idle after the start could be a number of things, but I would make sure the throttle body is clean, and then ensure the IAC is absolutely clean and functioning. A good link for identifying and checking the variuos RENIX sensors is: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

Had a productive weekend and repaired several areas on the 89 to prepare it for the paint. Also cleaned the IAC, MAP and TPS on the 87 and ran it for awhile. The whine has all but disappeared (?), and after about 3-5 minutes of running the oil pressure is steady around 30 PSI (at idle). The engine idles at 900 RPM but every 16 seconds (exactly - I timed it!) the idle will climb to 1300 RPM then after 3-5 seconds it falls back down to about 900 RPM. This is with the MAP sensor disconnected (when connected the idle gradually climbs and does not return to normal). Directly after the idle returns to normal the exhaust appears black and smells very rich. Based upon the information, something is causing the ECM to believe the engine needs to throttle up and then go rich (in the mixture). Other then the sensors I have addressed can anyone advise other senosrs that could cause this effect? Or, does anyone else think it might be the ECM (like I am suspecting)? Thanks

Could the clunk (and the slight forward movement) be the positraction rear end? (Only if you have the dana 35 I believe). Ralph makes that noise when we turn corners...I put an additive in the diff and it went away for awhile.

Thanks for the offer. Are you nearer to Atlanta north or south?

Got a good bit done this weekend, but still have to add the driveshaft and have the front right frame horn pulled out about 1.5 inches. Pics - Front: Interior (almost rust free!) The two videos are my attempt to show the idle problem and a whine that I cannot find the source for. In the first (2 minute) video from a cold start, I have the MAP sensor disconnected and the idle begins at about 800 then gradually climbs in steps to about 1500 before I shut it down. at 49 secs I re-connect the MAP, you can hear the dramatic change in the idles at that point. At 1/56 it starts the whining sound. The second video is quite short and is a better example of the whine. My question is: Can anyone suggest a solution for the idle problem and, can anyone suggest what the whine is caused by? Thanks

Thats a great deal. My neighbor (who has not been a car repair person in the least) had the unfortunate passing of his father several months ago. While he did not do any work, his father repaired large trucks, and had the tools to do so. After he passed, they put all the tools up in a 40 ft container at the house, thinking they would parcel out the goods later. I had asked for a torch setup and a monster floor jack. They also had several hobart and lincoln welders, along with several aluminum saddle tanks (that we wanted to make into a grill). IN any case, his nephew moved in. Needing money to support his drup habit, he cut the leads off the welders and sold them for scrap (along with the alum. tanks and the welding torches). Needless to say, my neighbor was ticked, and I just had to shake my head.... :headpop: