Akula69

Awhile back Hornbrod had posted a 'how-to' in changing out the pre-96 washer bottle for a 96-plus XJ washer bottle that sits inside the fender. I am trying to figure out the wiring for that mod now. I have been slowly working my way through a 89 XJ engine bay wiring harness (cleaning, checking and repairing) and have gotten all the way around to the washer bottle. I believe I have the power leads for the two pumps (even though I will only be using the leads for the front pump I will wire the other pump as well for a spare), I do not have a 96 or later wiring diagram that shows the color codes for the fluid level sensor. I suspect wiring it backwards would make the indicator illuminate all the time, so I'd like someone with that knowledge to chime in :D The old 89 harness has three plugs: washer pump front: violet with white tracer/black (ground) washer pump rear: violet with orange tracer/black (ground) fluid level sensor: violet with white tracer/white with black tracer On the 96/97 model it is: washer pump front: black with white tracer/black (ground) washer pump rear: black with white tracer/black (ground) fluid level sensor: ? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

I used the bracket on mine - just bent it a 'little' to get a good fit.

Don has a lot of good points, but there is also one more possibility...the ignition switch itself. The action of turning the key moves a small rod that runs down the column (this would be a second rod - seperate from the one in lotgod's thread). This rod had a 90 degree bend at the end that engages a small 'shuttle' like device inside the ignition switch. If this 'shuttle' cannot move freely it can sometimes keep the key from turning all the way off. I lightly coated the areas I could reach on mine with dielectric grease during the last replacement. The rod can also be bound if the column has been lowered and not replaced correctly. I learned (the hard way, of course!) the igition rod has to be along the top of the column when it is re-installed.

Yes, I got the cable...thanks. The most likely reason the key will not turn all the way 'off' is because of that rod in your photo. It may be getting hung up in the shroud.

Getting ready to swap an 89 XJ harness into the 89 MJ...but as you said, the 86 and 87 years had the C101...neither harness has it on mine.

The left one used to, but stopped when I cleaned the corrosion off the main plug for the harness. Four way flashers work fine. Rear parking lights are fine. only the front parking lights are non-op. I "@$$-umed" that the front harness gets its ground through the main harness, as I see no seperate ground.

I know there have been a multitude of posts about the front turn signals and parking lights not functioning properly, and God knows I have had my fair share of fun trying to figure them out. After searching the forums and not finding anything like my problem I wondered if anyone had experienced it and, if so, how they solved it. The turn signals work, but blink slowly. the parking lamps will not light, either when the headlight knob is pulled out to the frist detent or when fully extended. I have checked all the grounds and although there was corrosion in the main plug on the headlight harness I have cleaned it and confirmed power at that plug. I just finished refurbishing/replacing/repairing the entire A/C systen in the truck and found that the engine bay harness was modified in numerous spots by the PO, but is does not appear that the parts of hte harness dealing with the front end have been changed. Any suggestions? This is getting to be an irritation, and will keep me from getting an inspection sticker. Thanks!

Don't take this wrong... But yes, I check my son's grades all the time, usually when he is looking over my shoulder. Some of his teachers are also slow to post up grades, and we do get into difficult discussions about his progress. However, as I have explained to him, school is one of the most important things that you will ever do, besides being a lot more fun then going to work every day. I know you probably don't believe that now, but when you have the time to look back on it you will realize its true. I can't explain why your father is making the dire threats to you...it might be because he is concerned about your progress, or it might be because he misunderstood you in the past when you tried to tell him that they would get better and they did not (for whatever reason).

So without cruise, the two cable lengths are different? Absolutely. The speedo cable for the cruise control models is no longer avalable either, so if you come across one at the JY you might wanna grab it.

No, the 4WD cable length is the same as the 2WD cable when they both have cruise. There is a small oval revolution sensor that attaches to the end of the cable inside the dash and a short 'whip' cable goes from the sensor to the cluster.

Question: What did you use to get the mechanical pressure (where did you get it?) and how did you hool it up? Changing the RMS is easy once you get the pan down. There are a number of very good articles already herer in the forum, but I used this one: http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp

Wow...I did not know that there was another style of retaining clip. Just proves that you learn something new every day! Thanks Eagle! :cheers: Also - Eagle is correct - if you force the disconnection, it will pull the center of the speedo cable out of the sheath and dislodge a very small plastic retainer inside the cable (ask me how I know...LOL) and it is difficult to make it go back.

I gotta get under there to check and that'll take a few days (before I can get to it). As I recall, I had to use a multimeter to work it out....but there is another way: use the switch that was attached to the brake pedal on the old setup.

Yes, but only the 95 and 96. Any other year and you have to modify the pushrod.

Depending on the type of drivetrain that you have, and whether or not you have cruise control can effect the steps that you have to take; however the general steps are as follows: 1) Remove trim around dash cluster. 2) Remove cluster screws and ease it forward enough to grasp the tab at the back of the speedometer. Depress the tab to release the cable from the speedometer. 3) Carefully trace it back to the firewall and gently remove the rubber grommet from the firewall. This should free up the upper end of your cut speedo cable. 4) Crawling under the truck, locate the other half of the cut cable, and there will be a metal bracket that is pushed over a neaby bolt and secured by a push on style nut. Remove it and then carefully follow the cable back to the transmission and unscrew it. Replacement is the reverse of above, but be sure to feed the new cable down towards the transmission from the top of the engine compartment, ensuring it will not get pinched in the steering system or any other moving parts. Feed the speedometer end into the cab from the engine compartment as well, ensuring that the grommet seals completely against the firewall.

Hmmmm. So I can get the axle for 75.00 and a cover for 100.00 more. The only problem would be getting the daymn thing off with only hand tools... :roll:

The harness for the 1989 cruise control goes thru a hole that is above the ECU harness hole (as a general location) near the harness for the wiper motor. The hole accomedates the vacuum hose and the electrical wires. I have done the 95-96 brake master/booster swap, and found the same bracket on the pedal assembly. I did exactly as you described, but had to also swap in the 89 cruise control cut-off switch (it is part of the brake light switch on the pedal swivel bolt). This shuts off the cruise when the pedel is depressed. If I get a chance later I will post some pictures...but it may be a few days.

Went to the JY today - got lucky I guess in the fact that there were 3 - 89 XJ's there to pick from - all 3 C4C vehicles. The sad part was a silver Laredo with 84K on the clock that looked almost new (except for the crack in the block). Ah well.... Anyway, there is a 4X4 with a D30 in the front and a AMC20 in the back, but some fool put what appears to be a screwdriver thru the cover. After some cursing and further investigation, it appears that all the diffs have a hole put in the covers and have been drained. My question is...does anyone know of aftermarket covers for the '20? PS: I got a nice clock, a complete (unmodified) engine bay harness, a complete cruise control system (including the special speedo cable), a complete header panel, AC vacuum hoses, and a couple other small parts for 75.00. All in all, not bad for 5 hours work.

Jeez I must be the only one that is at home with the wife, two thick steaks, and a couple bottles of wine.....

Yeah, I know what you mean about it not being a high failure part. Unfortunately all of mine have lost the purple colored hose that goes to the heater valve, (in fact..both the hoses that go into the engine bay are now white from age and heat!). Thanks

Thank you gentleman :D (unfortunately, it appears they are no longer sold... :roll: )

There is no way I know of to get the carpet completely dry while its in the truck. The problem isn't the carpet per se, its all the noise and insulating padding they put under the carpet and jute. Best bet is to take it out to dry it.

I am trying to find the correct part number for the vaccum harness that runs from the control on the dash to the HVAC box (behind the dash) and out into the engine bay (heater core valve and vaccum tank). I have several of the HVAC units, and have begun rebuilding / re-insulating the best of the bunch for the Christmas Jeep. On each unit there are a series of vaccum lines that has a tag attached which says: 'BMC' in two places (I believe that is the manufacturer) and '8956001-771' (which I believed was the part number) and, in a different type set '8257' (which I believe is the sequencial part identification number). All three tags I have found are identical except for the third number, which is different on each. This tag is usually found inside the wire loom that covers the vaccum lines just behind the connector which attaches to the controls. If someone with better reference manuals then I could look up this part number I'd be greatful. Thanks Jake

You say that now, but I've seen southerners when they come up here to the cold. It's not pretty. :D Yeah, but I'm origionally from Ohio.... :D

Ya'll want some cheese with that whine? :roll: Anytime you want a little heat just come on down. We had high 80's today that I'd have given you in a heartbeat.... :D