Akula69

Hell, I've had a few adult beverages now and I still like the place. :D Don't sweat it man - I've posted many times and never gotten an answer. It waxes and wanes.

Son gets 20 PSI at warm idle and flucutates between 50-60 PSI at 2500 RPM in his MJ with 264000 orig. miles When its cold it sits at 70-75 PSI and if he gets impatient and tries to drive it off before warming up it reads 80-85 PSI.

Ya know - I can't tell you how many of those lower dash pieces I have seen bent and broken like that. :( For the time to take out 9 screws and disconnect a hose and two wires...sheesh

Geez ya'll slay me. Just wait till it turns grey. :rotf:

I saved him....but what pill was that :clapping:

Congratulations!

My experience was very similar...all the brake functions worked but the brake lights would not. I went through all the steps and found that the culprit was the push rod on the booster. I had done the brake booster upgrade several months ago and ground the rod down to allow the use of the old brake light switch. It worked fine until just a few weeks ago when I noted they were not coming on. As I studied the switch, I noticed it had shifted up slightly on the pushrod, and the contact plate was no longer able to release. When I rotated it back down slightly it immediately worked again. I could not find a way to resolve the issue, so I switched to the 93 - up brake switch.

Kinda funny that you asked....when I packed for the trip I forgot my cheater bar, and brought the battery sawsall (but didn't charge the battery :roll: ). I had a dinky 3/8 socket wrench and had to borrow a 4 foot fence pipe to try and turn the u-bolt nuts. The outer nuts simply broke off under the strain, and the inner u-bolt on the right side stubbornly refused to break - forcing me to turn them off 1/2 turn at a time. When they came off the left side spring plate just kinda slid off and the whole thing fell on the ground. I have not even had time to cut that off, but obviously I'll be doing that and getting new perches...

Went to the Pull-a-Part in Marrero (don't ask) and picked up a few items. They had lots of late model XJs(1995 all the way up to 2001) and one MJ Pioneer which was so badly beat up I could not get a VIN (sorry Rob). I also did not have my camera, so no pics of it, but it was a 1988 2WD, red in color with a 2.5L and a D35 from Mississippi...had a grey interior which was in decent shape...some A-hole had smashed out the tail lights and bent the tailgate. Otherwise, I got: Grey interior panel - slightly beat up and needs cleaned: Finally able to get a 13.00 condenser without twisting the attachments off The washer bottle and harness I had been looking for THe 8.25 axle that came from a 1998. Needs some blasting and a coat of paint Business end The lucky receipent - also: does anyone want free bed liners? Let me know. It'll take awhile, as I need to replace the tie rod ends and steering arm in my son's MJ first.

Wow. I was just talking to my wife about that.

Thanks

LOL. Thanks. The Mount on my son's truck has an elongated hole where the track bar attaches. Let me know if your interested in letting it go.

Posted this in the 'Wanted' section and got zero replies: I am looking for recommendations for new spring perches, and I would also like to know if anyone has a company that sells stock trackbar-to-frame mounts for a non-lifted MJ. I have searched the forums. Thank you

I used seafoam to clean the gunk out of the engine, oil passages and crankcase. It worked well and I did it several times to dissolve the built-up crud in my 87...it gave it new life. Just be sure that you don't use an engine cleaner that will release 'chunks' of build-up that can get lodged in the oil passages, and change the oil while it is still hot (to keep the sludge from re-forming in the oil pan).

Looking for a recommendation for spring perches as I will need a set soon. Also, was wondering if anyone knew of a company that sells the stock track bar mount. (Cryco here does not anymore). The truck is bone stock and will not be lifted. Thanks

Recently I got to play with a Snap-on MT2500 scanner and my Jeeps. It was an eye opener on how the ECM deals with all the inputs from the sensors...but in answer to your question - the 87 was taking about 7-10 seconds to start, and the sensor indicated that the stator (pick-up coil) inside the distributor had switched from sequential injector pulse to simultanous injector pulse. I didn't even know the stator could do that, but the diagnosis codes description said that a symptom was longer cranking times and extremely rich mixtures (bad MPG). The MJ would start and run but the scanner recommended replacement, and when I did it then showed sequential pulse, and the start time dropped to about 3-4 seconds. Just as a side note - the short term ECM fuel adjustment went back to normal as well.

I know that some of you in this forum don't have a whole lot of use for the police, and some have expressed thier opinions about legalizing weed and all that other stuff. However, I am compelled to post this message because of the deep sense of honor for a friend of mine who was killed on Wednesday at approximately 0545. Lt. Douglas "Wade" Sharp, a 20 year veteran of the Covington Police Department was killed while protecting his 8 year old daughter from a falling tree that struck this tent while they were camping at the Natchez Trace campgrounds in Mississippi. He must have sensed some danger - he rolled over on top of her - shielding her and the tree struck him in the back of the head, killing him instantly. He is survived by his daughter and wife. My fellow officers and I brought his remains home today. I knew Wade well - had spoken with him Monday morning about his upcoming trip and he invited me to have breakfast with him. To my sadness and regret I declined that invitation. There hath no greater love them a man who would give up his life so another may live. When I must die I can only hope that I do it as honorably as he did. Godspeed Wade, I know that heaven is a much better place now that He has brought you home. You may rest easy - we will take the watch from here.

I'm sure that you don't want to hear this, but this is the voice of experience talking: don't leave a job until you have another one. If the relationship is good she will still be there. just my .02

No vampire is gonna run me out of my home. As my wife occasionally says...."You gotta sleep sometime!" :yes:

I have been making steady progress on Junior since I got him back from the shop. Unfortunately, I am having door alignment issues (even after searching the threads here and on Google). I have replaced both the door seals with brand new ones so I believe thats not an issue. The doors both leak at the top only, the sides and bottom are well sealed. I have moved the striker inwards (towards the seat) the the full range with no effect. I have also tried different doors as well. The hinges are not sagging and have not been re-welded. Any ideas on how to close the gap? Thanks

If I had that many vampires around I'd be moving out.....

Ahhh damn - would like to be there but the job has first dibs.....

Left the shims at the hinge/hood interface, but none at the firewall.

Well, finally got it today. I replaced the hinges with a set from the JY and it now clears the cowl. I appreciate all the responses.

Well, I got Junior back from the body shop yesterday after they pulled the frame. All the panels lined up great but I had sent it to them with the wrong hood on board, and when I changed to the permanent hood I am now having difficulty aligning it. Before you say it...I checked the dimensions on the body personally and the shop straightened it to specifications as shown in the FSM. The fender gaps and the header gap are fine, the height (as compared to the fender edges) is fine; but when I try to open the hood is binds at the back...on the edge of the cowl cover (windshield wiper motor cover). I have inserted 6 shims under the hood hinges ( between hood and hinge) so far without success. I need the hood to move foward towards the header panel. My question: has anyone inserted shims under the hood hinges where they mount to the firewall? I have dismantled a ton of Jeeps and have never seen any shims there. I suppose the hinges themselves could be bent, but I have none to compare them to. Thanks Jake