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Everything posted by Akula69
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Mother Nature is gonna send one of them prong horns after you..... :yes: You mean Prong Horn Antelope? Jim would probably shoot it and eat it. LOL yeah, but not if he's not looking when she does!
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Mother Nature is gonna send one of them prong horns after you..... :yes:
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I needed to replace that hose on both of my MJ's. I was able to locate one in a JY and had to order the other from a JY in CA....JWjeep at http://www.jwjeep.com/. I think he charged me $20.00 plus shipping.
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Thanks for that info Don. I need to look some of those up becasue the only after market ones I have seen no longer have the pigtail harness on them, just a plug molded into the top of the sensor. The corresponding attachment on my engine bay harnesss will not reach the MAT sensor unless it has the pigtail on it :(
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The rear of the manifold. As you stand at the fromt of the engine its the second from the right rear. Has a two wire harness that comes out the top.
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Unfortunately I was unable to find one either and resorted to collecting 2 or 3 at the JY and using one that worked.
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A true story as related by good Ole' Bill: (or a reason why he "got a little on the side") One day Billy was interested in a new box of cigars so he hopped into the limo and told the driver to take him to the local Stop and Rob. When they got there, Bill sent the driver into the store to get the cigars, but after a while Bill began to wonder why the woman was taking so long. Deciding to check on her, Bill sent in a Secret Service guy who eventually came back out and said he found the driver bound up and lying naked in the cooler but no one else was around. Upon further investigation it was found that the cashier had grabbed the driver, tied her up and stripped her, but only licked her all over her body. Unfortunately, the cashier could not be arrested as he was able to produce a valid liquor license. :peek:
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I keep seeing bumper stickers more and more now: "I can't wait till 2012"
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When you say you are looking for the mounts for the rear fender flares, are you talking about the stock flares? If so, you can get them at the stealership, or off of a XJ in the junk yard. If they are used, the studs will most likely break off when you try to remove them. You can grind down the remnants and drill for stainless steel bolts/nuts to replace them.
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Some of those pictures are eerily familar to what we called Katrina. Good luck to the guys in those areas. Keep your receipts for any items you had to purchase because of the storm (generators, chain saws, pumps, emergency fuel, boards, tarps etc.) as FEMA will reimburse you (eventually) and then audit you later :roll: EDIT: also, keep a sharp eye out for the emergency cash distribution centers. They will announce them and not fund them with enough cash for everyone, so be there early, and be polite but firm when they ask you what you've lost. Ensure that you get full value for the contents of the fridge and freezer.
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Most of the MJ's used a version of the Sanden brand compressors. When mine went out I got a rebuilt one and it has done fine...but most of your compressors will require you to replace the accumulator/dryer when the compressor is replaced or the warranty will be void. I replaced my accumulator/dryer and the condensor as well with the compressor.
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Finally changed out the old D35 in the 87 MJ. THe '35 was moaning under acceleration and appeared to need a new pinion bearing and race...and I just wasnt in the mood for trying to rebuild it. The 8.25 came from a 98 XJ with 154K on the clock. I used JEGS spring perches and U-bolts (but got the 10 inch bolts which was way overkill - had to cut them so a deep socket would fit!). The driveshaft did not need to be cut, and from the pictures the angles were almost straight on, with no vibrations when driving. The only two wierd things were the drums on the D35 appeared bigger then the ones on the 8.25 (even though they both took 9" brake shoes), and the pinion yoke was tapped for 5/16 - 18 TPI (threads per inch) strap bolts instead of the 5/16 24 TPI that came on the D35. I had to re-tap the yoke for the correct TPI. Anyway - Pictures: Drum comparison: (8.25 drum on left) U-bolt length before cutting: Axle installed: Poor old D35:
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Cleaning inside of gas tank
Akula69 replied to JeepNewb's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I used several marbles and a gallon of carb cleaner (In a can - not spray)....but mine was just dirty, I had no rust. -
Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25 swap
Akula69 replied to jimoshel's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Jim, I'm actually in the process of doing the 8.25 swap in place of a moaning D35 on the SWB 87. I have ground off the old perch and shock mount, and I am going to mount it up this weekend and weld the new perches on. I have measured as best I can and it appears the drive shaft will not need to be shortened, but I won't know until I get the axle up in there and rotate it inot the correct angle. -
"This video has been removed by the user - sorry about that"
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I got the number for AA somewhere around here..... :no:
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OK - do you wanna practice on my moaning D35 now?
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Well yeah Don, if I was gonna be called that I'd want it gone too... thanks for the new Saints running back, btw.... 8)
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Yeah, I use it on my son's '89 and the '87. I have also seen the small increase in PSI when the engine is cold.
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salvage comanches everywhere in the U.S.
Akula69 replied to 86maroonmanche's topic in Craigslist/eBay... i.e. Not Your Stuff
Neat site, but there are some "gotchas": 1) A $150 registration fee, non-refundable. However, you can look and bid on 1 vehicle without the fee for 30 days. 2) A $400 security deposit (required) that is refundable after 30 days but cannot be used to make any purchase. 3) A $200 purchase processing fee, ($399 in Florida and 6% tax) on all purchases. So, you'd tie up $400 at first, and potentially $600 for at least 30 days plus whatever your purchase price is. The Eliminator in that was at the Green Springs, LA. yard was cherry, but is gone now. Too bad, but I hope it went to a good home. -
On my 91 the fog lamp switched output was pin #10 of the 10 pin connector, a BRN/WHT wire. It's best to ohm it out to be sure and wire colors changed changed a lot throughout the years. Don is correct - Ohm it out...I had only seen 89 and 88 harnesses.
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I think we can share. :chillin: I got a mental 8x10 of this...and its disturbing me. :popcorn:
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If you need to run wires across the front of the truck I have found the easist and safest is to put them in the existing cross body harness or wire tie them to that harness. This harness runs under the front of the radiator along the frame. If you cannot get a front harness from an XJ (as shown by Fiatslug87) that had fog lights, the wire in the 10 pin connector (engine bay harness side connector) that you need is a light green one (on most of the harnesses I have seen). If you have an old harness you can remove a similar pin and install it in the front harness and run a new wire from there to the relay and fog lights. We found the correct pin (in the 10 pin connector) by hooking up the switch on the dash and then using a multimeter to see when that pin was energized. Remember, the headlights have to be on, and the high beams off or the pin is never energized. As Eagle said in a previous post, it is illegal to wire fog lamps to work alone or with the headlights off...and its just silly to wire them to work with the high beams on.
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Dayem Jim, if I knew that were you I would have kept backing up. :rotfl2: snapped like a carrot...ouch! :eek:
