Akula69

Today, my son and I took down the gas tank on the Christmas Jeep as it was leaking fuel at the sending unit. After cleaning the tank and re-painting it, we replaced the main locking ring O-ring, and the smaller O-ring around where the wires go into the sending unit. Unfortunately, the unit still leaks around where the wires enter. I carefully removed the retaining nut and re-used it, but cannot seem to get it tight enough to seal against the O-ring. Hs anyone replaced this O-ring and used some other method of retaining nut? The origional one does not seem to work well. Thanks Jake

:agree: Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll: Same money for half the product. To state the obvious is to insult some members here which is apparently easy.........lol No insult intended - I was makin a funny on myself...up until that point I actually did buy the pre-mixed :doh:

Great video, but: At 1:27 in the audio you say to turn the inner bolt to the right, or clockwise, to tighten the steering....but in the video you turn the center bolt to the left. :cheers:

:agree: Although I will add: I don't buy the pre-diluted mix (no matter what brand). I used to until a friend at the store asked me "Why are you buying water...?" :roll:

Somehow I thought you were gonna say something else when I read the title Jim....I suppose I need to clean up my act.... Anyway, good news!

Always! its part of the deal!

We pay approx. $675 every 6 mths for my soon-to-be 18 year old to drive the '89, but it is only for liability coverage (of 300K/500K) through State Farm. He gets a good student discount ($241/6 mths) and a discount for the 'Steer Clear' program ($146/6 mths). But - in order to get that rate he has never had an accident or ticket :clapping:

Passenger side connectors: The single-wire red one is for a the under hood light. The single wire orange one could be (depending on manual ransmission) Connector C301 upshift disconnect, or it could be Connector C300 4WD switch. The multi-wire one (red/Yellow/Black) could be one of several (again depending on transmission) Driver's side connector: That one is either the extra connector for the windshield washer motor or the low washer fluid sensor. The main connector for the windshield washer motor is a two-wire and the connector is "T" shaped. What kind of tranny you got?

Please post pictures of the connectors, as it is difficult to tell what they are without them.

What Mvusse is trying to say is when you cut out the splices and the wire going between them, you eliminate thier attachment to a ground up by the firewall. The harness does go on to the block ground, but you would need to ensure that the Neg cable from the battery is makeing good contact as well (too many of those cables are undersized and corroded). What I believe you left out of your writeup was where you re-attached them to the gounding system. Did you replace the wire you cut out? (not the splices - because you soldered those back together).

I read the TSB somewhere...I'll try to "relocate" the article. Meanwhile, I'll tell you my 87 had the C101, and I simply replaced the 87 harness with an 89 harness without the connector. Left the bracket there for awhile until it aggravated me and then drilled out the rivets and sealed the holes. Maybe the harness was simply replaced like mine.

Based upon the shape of the bolt handle and the stamping, it is a Japanese Ariska 7.7 MM rifle bolt and firing pin. http://world.guns.ru/rifle/repeating-rifle/jap/arisaka-3-and-99-e.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Arisaka_Type_99_bolt.jpg

hmmmm.... Don, looking for some relative bearing grease...got any? :brows:

Not origionally from Louisiana, but I have heard that as well. :roll: Think its where the phrase "kissing cousins" came from. Heard that a lot too. Funny thing about folks - when they need the police, they want them right there right now. But when they don't want them "interfering" they gripe about it. Seems like they would realize you can't have it both ways. You either want the police to enforce the laws or you don't - you can't pick and choose which ones just 'cause you don't 'like' them. Don't like the laws? Vote for someone who will change them. Its just that simple.

If you believe it is the belt moving around on the pulleys, try this trick an old mechanic taught me: Take some silcone gasket maker and put a dollop about the size of a pencil eraser on your fingertip. With the engine off, rub it perpendicular to the belt at an open spot (any place on belt - but only one place). Start the truck - if the squeaking is gone it is the belt (either a pulley alignment problem or an idler bearing problem). If the squeak is still there (he said) the problem is most likely the harmonic balancer is rubbing the timing chain cover.

our country protects to stupid and lazy way too much. i see which catagory your with. if that cop didnt have his brights on he wouldnt of gotten my brights plus fogs. the way i see it, if your lights make it so i can't see, ill return the favor. Hmmm....Me thinks that Eagle has been quite reasonable with you up to this point. Just so you know, it is not only illegal to wire your fogs to operate without the headlights on, In Louisiana it is also illegal to turn them on when there is no fog. I have stopped drivers and ticketed them for it for the very reason Eagle gave. Not everyone here in the forum is as nice as Pete....I'd have already banned you for attitude alone.

antidisestablishmentarianism? (Cool!)

I agree 100% with heat affecting the siding in that fashion, but I have also seen chemical reactions that cause that kind of distortion. The only thing I see in the picture that could be the culprit is the gas, but the regulator is pointing the wrong way, and gas is heavier then air...so it would have to be a big leak (one you could hear) for it to stream upwards like that. Also, is there any other applicance that vents under the structure that could produce chemical effects...like a gas hot water heater or whole house generator? Could there be some item trapped under the siding in that corner that is off-gassing? Do you have a really large dog that could be peeing on it? (just kidding)

Hard to say - what you describe could be two separate problems...or no problem at all! 1) No Start - if you have checked for spark and fuel pressure but haven't replaced the CPS you might want to try that, it can cause the symptoms you're describing. As a 5 speed, you should be able to 'bump' start it (key on, coast down a hill and put it in gear) if it's something other then the CPS. 2) Milky white deposit - ah...head gasket problems should show up as coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Do you have a lot of blowby? if so, water in the air cleaner box (from rain or whatever) could mix with the blowby and cause the deposit. Good Luck

Yeah - you should hear some of the comments I am hearing. Most of us don't understand either. The general conclusion (I'm only about 50 miles from LSU in Baton Rouge) we're coming to is that Miles was simply just to stubborn to realize a change of QB needed to be made. To paraphrase him from today's paper "....I thought he (Jefferson) could pull it off, and it would be unfair to pull him out. I simply did not prepare the team for the game...." Talk about an understatement! :thwak:

Don - It was just wrong for the Alabama team to beat up on that hapless high school team that showed up when LSU lost thier way to the Superdome..... :no: (Geez - could LSU even show thier faces in public after the helpless showing they put on?) GO 'BAMA! they are the National Champions!

12.25 inches from center to center on the top hinge to the bottom. There is a small semi-circle in the leading edge of each hinge that is the center. Follow his diagram (which are available on this link: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973&highlight=Door+hinge+repair. I did this to the 87 and it worked great!

Cop. 14 years. Before that, Administrator and Consultant

I am also going to switch to the later-model trim when we replace the windshield in the '89. As stated in the link you referenced, I expect to grind down the tabs for the old trim clips, and I will coat them with the zinc rust preventitive. As far as the new trim needing the windshield out - all I have read says this is not necessary and I realize the urethane only holds the glass (and the trim gets "glued" to the outer surface), but I can't help but believe that the fresh urethane (with the windshield replaced) will help hold the bottom edge of the trim in. Get you spped clips at NAPA or Auto Zone. Quantity in pack depends on size.

Rob could certainly use another one....