Akula69

Should we message him and warn him? :rotf:

Ahh! missed this before...I'd take 4 if you still have some (after everyone else gets theirs!)

Worst part now is all the folks who are trying to get exta money out of the government. Sure, some are really in need...but some of these scams are just ridiculous. They had a woman today (interviewed on local TV) who said she was destitute...no job...lost everything in the storm...then finished up her comment by complaining (on the air mind you!) she had to take off work to "come down here and stand in line for assistance when they should just mail it to her house" What a rocket scientist..... :doh:

Yes - this kind of conversion takes a lot of effort, and it is much appreciated. :thumbsup:

Looking for the button to "view unread posts". Was that php function not available here? Please tell me you don't have to go into every subforum.... and - wth are "warning points"? Was I bad in a prior life? Otherwise, Looks Great!

Actually, I would really like it if you could get the passenger side cab corner. I need it, and the rest of the trucks around here are hopelessly rusted. Would be willing to paypal ahead so you'd have the cash. PM me if you would consider it! Thanks!

Fuel sender - Get the sender! Even if you don't need it, sooner or later you will...or you can sell it to someone here.

So far - a non-starter. Very little rain and some wind. Kinda wish something would happen just to help with the boredom (but don't want anyone hurt). Well, maybe that guy on the continuously broadcasting weather channel. How many times can you say the same crap dude!

Naw. Thats why the title is what it is. I was just bored before going to work. Now I'm bored at work. Only three days to go!

Not Katrina (thank God) but another pain in the azz storm named Isaac that will probably flood us worse (due to slow movement). Should pass about 10-15 miles west of us here in Covington, skirting the western edge of Lake Ponchtrain. Wind is picking up (at 0230) and we should get a surge out of the lake at about 9 - 15 feet. The old 87 got 50 sandbags and 50 gallons of gas for generators before resting today. She did good. Have to report for work - its a waiting game now.

Just as the title says, I am in the market for a passenger-side cab corner in good shape to replace a rusted one. PM me if you have one BEFORE you cut it off so I can suggest dimensions (need some steel to flange it properly). Thanks :cheers:

You're not sorry at all Jim. :D And for the life of me I can't think of a decent comeback. Here ya go Don (with all due apologies to President Jefferson....): "The tree of knowledge must sometimes be refreshed with the application of warm air" 8)

Check with this place - they make custom plastics including a tubing that is very similar to the plastic bushing you are referring to. http://www.professionalplastics.com/CADILLACPLASTICS I have ordered some of the extruded acrylic tubing from them (for another project) and believe the tube wall thickness could be close. I do not know what the minimum order quanity is for the size you are seeking, but in most instances it is a case of 6 foot tubes. You might want to try and contact the site and see if they have a piece of scrap lying around. Good Luck!

Well shoot! I guess I need to change mine! I never looked at the FSM - I just ASSumed that the hot fluid should go the other way. :thwak: Hornbrod seriously knows his stuff - do it his way

I installed a new three row radiator and a trans cooler as well not too long ago. The idea bechind the trans cooler was to reduce the load on the radiator, so I routed the line from the tranmission to the cooler first, then sent it on to the radiator. It went from the radiator back to transmission. I've seen folks who have bypassed the radiator completely with a separate trans cooler, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially if you will use the MJ to tow trailers.

:clapping: :rotfl2:

I have been there when they test the starters (and Alternators). They have a box that they mount the darn things in and they hook up cables from a battery - then flip a switch and see if it performs properly.

A good question. Best I can tell you guys is that the web site in New York I referenced in the post does replace the potentiometer when they re-build the sender (and you can buy them separately as well) but I have never been able to remove the old one from the sending unit. Seems the shaft for the float passes through the plastic case of the potentionmeter and then thru the metal mounting plate. At the time I could not find a way to get it off without severely bending it and/or cutting it (which would basically destroy the float arm). The potentiometers that company sells appear http://tristarrradiator.com/Products%20Page/Products%20Page.html (see picture of 0-90 rheostat) to have the float arm as a straight shaft that simply plugs in - but there is a question as to whether it would read correctly on our gauge set. As far as tank-to-tank interchange, one of the spare senders I have is from a small tank and the other is from the larger...but they both ohm out the same, and the float arms appear to be the same size (but I have not measured them). I am unaware of differences in the senders from different engine types.

:rotf: :rotfl2: You know its true! Jim - take it from me - get checked. It could be something simple or nothing at all, but why take the chance? Yeah, yeah - the doctors will probably find all sorts of crap to fret over but only you can decide to buy into thier hype. Just make sure nothing is seriously wrong. This place would run outa jokes without you.

Know what you mean and agree. I've been ranting about the electric company charging us for the electricity and the cost of the fuel to produce it for a while now (driving wife nuts!). They also charge for infrastructure maintenance and for a "reserve for future infrastructure development", (as well as taxes, of course!). CLECO (our electric company) is one of the few monopolys I know that actually has little (or no) overhead for cost of goods sold. It no wonder they have posted over 100% increase in profits each year for the last 3 years! :headpop:

Believe me, we'll pay for it in the end. Don't know about your area, but down here the electricty is produced by burning natural gas, so...when the electric cars actually do start clogging the roads, the taxpayer will just pay the higher costs for natural gas passed on through thier electric bills..... Last months electric bill for my house had $146.00 in actual Kwh costs...and a $130.00 "fuel surcharge".... :nuts:

I'm gonna take a WAG here and say he probably drilled a hole for it before re-install.

Unless I am mistaken, It appears the bracket where the pump mounts is missing on the ebay one, and the line from the pump out to the fuel filter is shorter?

A/C system does not have a vacuum tank. The only part that looks like a tank is the dryer and should be replaced any time the system has been open. Sorry, I typed 'vacuum tank' and meant 'vacuum cannister' that holds the vacuum so the A/C - Heater does not continously blow to defrost....

Hmmm...ideas: (1) I recently was lurking the other forums and read a thread about a guy who had the same stalling problems who had bought an after-market (believe he said from NAPA) CPS and it was doing the same as you described - seemly after the truck warmed up. He was advised that some after-market CPS units would get squirrely when they got hot, so he took his out of the truck and ohmed it out when it was cold, then warmed it in a toaster oven. Sure enough, when it was cold he was getting about 200-275, but when warmed up he got 0. He went to the Stealership and got one - problem solved. (2) Ignition switch (down low on column) can sometimes be damaged by blower motor pulling too much current through wires. Check for melting where blue plug cannot be removed, or (in extreme cases) wires are singed looking. Ususally involves replacing switch (tilt and straight column switches are different - ask me how I know :doh: )