Akula69

Can you be a little more precise in what you mean by "small stuff"?. I would not recommend any used components, except for maybe the vacuum tank. Rock Auto has the following at pretty good prices: Compressor - $272.00; Condensor - $160.00; Accumulator/dryer - $35.00; Expansion valve (H block) - $35.00. The large (high pressure) line and the Evaporator can be sourced locally (O'Reillys or NAPA), but the smaller lines would have to be custom made or purchased at the JY, as they are no longer made.

LOL Yeah he does sell good stuff...

Used to be that way that the one in BR...but the manager got wise and installed a camera above the register. Last time we went the lady at the register wouldn't budge on anything :(

You indicated you did not hear the pump prime when the key was turned on. Just for grins and giggles, when you leave the keyswitch on can you turn on the radio, or the blower? If neither of those items work I'd take a look at the ignition switch.

Uhhh ya'll don't wanna know about down here...lol Heat index somewhere between Melting and WTF

Got a set of new (Crown automotive) headlight surrounds..what they call "prime" which is black with a dull very dark grey on the leading surfaces. Paid 12.00 for them (6.00 each) - you get them for 12.00 plus the cost of the ride. PM if interested.

T-shirt, probly a hoodie. Color not that important.

You might want to check the ignition switch (down low on the steering column). When my blower started getting squirrley I found that the plug for that portion of the harness (the blue one) was partially melted to the ignition switch. In reading about it, Cryco had discovered the origional factory wiring to the blower was sufficient when the blower was new, but as the blower got older it was drawing more and more current, and melted the wiring. Replaced the ignition switch, spliced in a new plug, and replaced the blower motor and all was good as new.

Condensor to receiver/dryer P/N: 56001487 ( for American A/C) Unfortunately not available here, so I had to pay $20.00 for one out of a yard in Cali. Maybe Fiatslug can rustle one up for you, or you might have to have one made.

Nice Fleet - Nice work! :cheers:

You can try this company - they say they build custom sending units: http://tristarrradiator.com/index.html

How/where is the current one you have damaged? I have had good success repairing leaks on the sending unit using JB Weld.

I know you probably don't want to come this far, but I have one in good shape you can have....as a matter of fact: Please come get it!

Congrats!

Had a similar problem with both my wife's and my daughter's WJ. After working with it for a long time it finally ended up that the injector harness had a spot that got too hot and melted the insulation on that cylinder's wire - causing a short that was throwing the code. Fixed short and wrapped that section of the harness with insulating fabric.

The re-assembly of the senders brought a new problem into light - the 'o' ring under where the harness enters the top of the sender is unique. it is standard in size (ID and OD) but it's diameter (thickness) meant it was not standard. I finally found it at the local NAPA store - it unfortunately does not have a part number so you would need to take the old one in for comparison. Then, fastening the push nut so leaks do not occur: and finally, re-attaching the other wiring and taping the openings (keeps bugs out) for storage: We bought new locking rings and 'o' rings for the senders - they are still commonly available but we got ours at NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=STPLO01_0261766611&An=599001+101989+50038+2038006&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA). and, finished: All-in-all, we spent about $60.00 for refurbishing the two senders. My son's sender had developed a leak at the junction of the tube and the top (outside) plate of the unit - we ended up using JB Weld to repair his with good results. If either of the units here would have had non-working potentiometers I would have send them to the rebuilder, as adjusting the potentiometer is beyond the skills I have.

Now the question I posted here in the forum about fuel-resistant paint became a pressing matter. I spoke at length to the POR-15 folks, the result of which was they could not specifically state their product would be fuel proof. I moved on to a product commonly used by scale RC modelers called Klass Kote, which is not only fuel but also nitro-methane proof. Site link: http://www.klasskote.com/. According to the manufacturer, this product will not dissolve in gasoline if allowed to harden for 7 days or longer. Although the company makes several colors, I chose the 'battleship grey' color and the white hardener, simply because I thought it would look better. The two must be combined in a glass or steel container (will eat plastic containers!) and I (at first) tried to draw the correct amounts out the cans with plastic syringes (mistake!) and ended up using a glass measuring cup. It has to sit for 45 minutes before application, and then hardens quickly after that, so we learned to only mix a small amount at one time... I used a regular brush to apply the finish, and got good results: THe thickness of the epoxy also filled some of the minor pitting as an added bonus. Now we wait for paint to dry....

Like most of us, over the years I have snapped up the fuel senders out of trucks that I find in the JY. The "collection" was basically dormant until my son's truck started leaking fuel from the sender, and I pulled out what I had to take an inventory. Both the senders I had in storage were corroded and had some pitting, but the worst problem was the lead from the harness to the float potentiometer on both were broken off. Although the 'before' pictures have been lost, I removed the old pumps and wiring, carefully taped up the potentiometers and sand blasted the units. This is the result: Note in the picture above we installed a bullet connector on the negative lead so any future repairs would be easier to complete. At this writing two sets of the origonal harness were still available (PM me if you want the link) for $75.00 each, but mine were still functionable with a good cleaning. The 'broken' lead: Before I even attempted to repair the broken lead I consulted with Don in the forum to get a better understanding of the potentiometer. I also called this place http://tristarrradiator.com/ and got a quote for repair. The quote was $125.00 per sender, plus the price of replacement parts. (Interestingly enough, the site will also sell just the potentiometer that is a similar range as the ones we use). After pulling out the multimeter and ohming out the ones I had, it was discovered they were both still good (range from 5 ohms to 95 ohms), so I decided to repair them. I clipped the broken end and put a new connector on: and then went on the hunt for #000 machine screws and nuts. Although I found a site that did sell them (http://www.clock-keys.com/pdf/Categories/fasteners,%20pins%20&%20grommets.pdf bottom of page) I also found that the mandrel from a dremel cut-off tool also had the same size screw, and could be cut to fit. (cheaper too!) After carefully removing the remains of the brass rivet (carefully, as one end of the potentiometer wire wraps around it!) the small machine screw is inserted from the inside of the potentiometer and the wire terminal, lock washer and nut is tightened on the outside. After checking again with the multimeter to ensure it still worked properly, we went on to the next step.

:agree: But, now that Goodall has finished the "National Flag football League" I'm not sure how good the sports will be this fall...

Way back in the fog that swirls around the Renix AMC/Jeep graveyard, there was a tool that is used to check the connectivity on the cruise control systems we had on our trucks. Its actual name is Command Cruise Control System AM PC-1-R, and it looks like a RC232 connector on steroids...it plugs into the sub-harness for the cruise control command box (the one that plugs into rectangular yellow box under the dash), and has a series of LED bulbs on it. These LED's supposedly allow the tech to troubleshoot the computer and harness in one fell swoop. I have searched for this tester, and have found multiple sites that have the pages from the FSM that refer to it....but have never found one. If someone has one of these or knows where one is, I am in the market. If someone has one but just can't part with it I would be glad to RENT it for a few days in order to duplicate the device. And if you're not interested...thanks for reading! 8)

Lower bug catcher?

I have both the short and long bed liners. If you want either or both of them you can have them for free. Only problem is I am in Louisiana - about 10 hours away from you. Still - the offer stands. I want them gone!

As the title suggests, I am looking for recommendations on a fuel-proof paint for refinishing the inside of a fuel sending unit. I recently decided to refurbish the two spare sending units that I have, and have solved most of the problems associated with the project except the corrosion control inside the tank. I have looked at Glasskote and Masterbond, but feel they might not be the best options. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I will post up a DIY on this project as I go along, but need to solve this problem first. Thanks! Jake

"..and sometimes the cat door..... is closed..." cat accordian!

I have found that a torch (heat wrench) is useful, especially when the ball joints are the origonals. I also made the mistake of buying the tool to remove the ball joints the first time I did it, and ultimately the "C" portion broke at one of the bends. Since then I have found renting the removal tool is better for me 'cause, if it breaks, they take it back and give you another 8) I always use Moog.