kar120c

I've been keeping my eye open for another project CJ7 for a while. Found one on craigslist minus engine,trans,t-case,top and doors. From the pics it looks like it is in great shape. Owner says no rust and perfect paint body. Laredo with factory trackloc. He wants 1700 obo. Appears to have ~3 lift 32's? Any vehicle or Jeep that drives for the matter is worth 1k but I've never bought a partial vehicle vehicle. Going to call tomorrow and get more info. Seems like a good deal assuming there aren't any surprises.

Your control arms are keeping your axle in place and not the springs. If it looks like the weight of the vehicle will keep the spring in place I'd say go easy on it and go for it.

I have a Pioneer AVIC-N1 in my 2001 XJ. Bought it a few months after it came out and paid a pretty penny for it. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... ms/AVIC-N1 I only use the stereo and navigation functions. The touch screen is awesome, however I had to ground the parking brake wire to fool the system into thinking the vehicle is stopped. If you install newer map software (which I did) you have to open the unit up and do a bit of soldering to bypass the lock. My dash also fouls on the heater vents around 90% travel. Some states are pretty harsh about DVD players located in view of the driver. My advice would be to buy whatever YOU want, and pick up some inexspensive travel DVD players for the kids.

Thoughts and prayers to the families.

This is per the manual. 1) Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. On all models except Wrangler, compress slave cylinder plunger by pushing release lever as far forward as possible. 2) Attach rubber hose to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Immerse other end of hose in glass container 1/2 full of brake fluid. Loosen bleeder screw and have an assistant depress clutch pedal. Tighten bleeder screw and release pedal. 3) Repeat bleeding procedure until fluid entering container is free of bubbles. DO NOT allow reservoir to run out of fluid during bleeding. Refill clutch master cylinder to level mark on reservoir. Is it possible you put the clutch disc in backwards? I did that once.... I'll never do a clutch job past midnight with tired eyes again. :doh:

Synthetic is well worth the money and a great investment in any vehicle you intend to keep for a long period of time. The problem when switching to synthetic on a high mileage vehicle is you develop problems as you described. Another common occurance is for your gaskets to deteriorate. I don't know the science behind it but older / tired engines just don't seem like full synthetic. Someone here probably will chime in on that. I started maintenance on my wife's 2000 TJ when we first met. That was around 50k mileage and I switched to full synthetic. Shortly thereafter the jeep developed a nasty leak from the oil pan gasket and RMS. On my 2001 XJ, it has had nothing but full synthetic 10w30 for it's entire life. Almost to 150k on the engine, no oil leaks, no oil covered drivetrain, and no oily engine block. Still haven't had to replace the RMS yet. :thumbsup: Engine runs and idles smooth and no ticking. I'm sold on full synthetics. :D Almost forgot, I replace the oil and filter every 6-7k using full synthetic and not every 3-5. You might try a part synthetic or a high milage oil instead.

Hope you have a swift recovery. You should be back behind the wheel of a Jeep in no-time. CW is right, way to have a great attitude. :thumbsup: Semper Fidelis

Would never do that to my 2001 XJ, but I'd absolutely LOVE to have a 91+ cherokee to build up and race like that. Looks like a hella-lot of fun. :yes:

:fs1: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :rotfl2: lol

:huh???: I only saw one "garage" in there. Towards the bottom there was a garage that had checkered floor with a huge array of tool shelves in the background. The rest of them were just stupid.

Seeing that you just recently swapped clusters I'd vote for an electrical issue. Wouldn't hurt to invest in an oil pressure gauge for testing purposes. I picked one up at harbor fright for $10.

Been there :D Last time I got *really* drunk, I was drinking tequila with another Marine vet. I haven't touched tequila since and never will. :no: Godawful lousy stuff, was sick for a week. Thinking about it gives me headache...

My grandparents owned one. They seem to be very popular vehicles among certain crowds. In fact there is one parked next to my jeep right now. :fs1: I also have seen the gowesty.com site and can't believe how much they sell for. They do have a lot of aftermarket parts which is neat. Newer appliances, rebuilt motors with more HP, etc..

I can say from experience I've used a couple of these tools before....most of us probably have. :yes: Got this in a chain email tonight. Had to share it. ---------------------------- TOOLS EXPLAINED! DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh Sh..' SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. S.O.B. TOOL: (A personal favorite!!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'S.O.B.' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Nice! I hadn't been to the Clifford website in a long time. I knew they made all kinds of stuff for the 4.0/4.2 but didn't know they had intakes/exhaust for the 2.5. Thanks for the reminder. :thumbsup:

Art? I took four years of advanced art and I can tell you THAT is not art. THAT is an example of someone with crap for brains and piss poor taste.

Strong little engine. If you are properly geared and using your Jeep as a daily driver or minimal offroad you will be fine. My dad used the hell out of the bed hauling various stuff, 4cyl handled it fine. I wouldn't expect to do any towing with it, nor would I expect it to perform on big tires/lift like a 6cyl will. My only real complaint about the 4cyl is the lack of aftermarket performance parts.

:eek: :ack: :???: :huh???: :hmm: :rotfl2:

:agree:

If it was a hard enough hit to crack the balancer, who knows what else it cracked. If the head comes back with a clean bill of health from the shop, I'd suspect the block. There might be a crack in a water jacket? :hmm:

If you had the Dana 35 I'd swap, but since you already have a 44 I would just re-gear. Seems like a lot of work to move from 3.07's to 3.55's. 31's would work "ok" with 3.55's but I'd recommend 3.73's. My 8.25 had 3.07s and a 5spd trans. When I put my 3.5" lift on with 31's, I upgraded to 3.73's. I only do light offroad but if I did more serious stuff, or had an earlier non-HO 4.0, I'd go with 4.10's. This is just me though. :D

Some of the CJ-5's and early model CJ-7's had the GM 151 4cyl. They later introduced the AMC 150 4cyl in late model CJ-7's. :thumbsup: Ahh memories...I want my damn CJ-7 back. :( :D

They should re-center the wheel since it is easy enough. If they don't you can re-center yourself using by loosening the two bolts on the turnbuckle. They are 15mm if I recall correctly. Rotate the buckle until the wheel is centered and then tighten bolts. Done.

Get some cats? :dunno: If you have patience you could always find a comfortable spot to sit and a .22 :D

I use nothing but Redline MTL for my manual transmissions. Both my Cherokee and Wrangler have the 3550, and the Comanche has an AX-5 waiting to be installed. Safe for brass synchros. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=45&pcid=7 Both 3550's have over 125k on them with this fluid and they both still shift and drive "as new". :thumbsup: